My '07 350 didn't either. I can't imagine that it's by design but probably a by-product of something else.

Well, it certainly doesn't feel natural. If there wasn't an initial surge of power I would attribute it to just a lack of low-end torque, but since we get that surge followed by an immediate loss in power it has to be something else.

Agreed! Very "artificial" feeling, as DIGI stated.

Im assuming that car is tuned as well? If not, how did he get the car to rev out that far?

I've heard a UPREV tune can remove that, is it designed in the ECU Mapping?

Any of the tuners can modify the rev limit. Whether he has a tune or he just bumped up the limiter we won't know unless we ask.

It's been a day and a half since I changed my K&N air filters to "stock" (I purchased the cheapest air filters from NAPA). I have not experienced the lag issue yet! I haven't driven a whole lot either though. I'll update again in a couple days. If it's something that simple, I'll be very happy but irked.

Did you by any chance reset the ECU when you did the filter change?

I noticed whenever I reset the ECU the car would feel good for a little while before reverting back to the same BS.

I thought about it, but didn't ultimately.

Update: I just ran some errands during lunch, and I did experience it again. It didn't seem AS bad as sometimes. Could be just hopeful thinking, or the combination that it was just starting on the last stretch of my drive. I would say air filters are NOT the problem (as guessed earlier by others).

I'm not sure if you see this info on technosquare, <TECHNOSQUARE - ECU FAQ>

Wow, very interesting... and exciting.

I have heard good things about technosquare.

This is a better set up to change the lag problem. once your pedal it precise and has no delay then i would go messin around under the engine. When I get my Z in July im getting this FOR SURE

Sprint Booster For Nissan 370Z

:shakes head:

your not feelin it icedZ??
i heard on speed channel this thing has worked great for lots of ppl

If the car won't go when he floors it how is it supposed to help?

I just wanted to touch up on this topic in regards to updates about my recent experiences for the past couple of months. As usual, my drives are to and from work in a span of about 15-20 minutes of driving. I also ran errands as well, so that adds about an additional 15-30 min of driving.

We had a couple of unusually warm weather over a week ago with near 70s. I can get the oil temps to hit 200. Then I've also driven the car then the temps were in the 20s and 40s.

The car has not been acting up lately. Throttle and electronic pedal feels is very good with hardly any dead zone or hesitation. The car immediately responds under 3k RPM when I give it more throttle. I get my 91 octane fuel from the same stations: Conoco and Philips. I don't see a 10% ethanol sign at these stations compared to Quick Trip. I'm not sure if that or winter mix makes a difference either.

What's this "tip in" knock that some owners has been experiencing? Is a case where the ECU quickly retards timing on throttle tip in? I was reading the Stillen SC thread, and owners talk about increased "tip in" knock as the engine gets hotter from longer duration of driving.

If so, what's the most economical way to get a visual or log engine knock or events where the ECU retards timing due to various factors including knock?

buy a really expensive real time scanner, im talking 3-5k $$ machinery.

I'm experiencing the issue every single day still. I also had my steering column solenoid lock up. They also said they couldn't get my driver door to replicate the window not rolling up all the way, so couldn't fix that. I will be at 36k miles within the next 2 weeks. I think I've decided to look for a new car. With all these issues and Nissan not helping, I'm giving up I think.

another mustang converter maybe?

Sorry to hear that... in fact, I was going to trade it in for an '04 NSX with about 30k miles. Price was under $50k, and I didn't mind ditching the forced induction idea to get the NSX and keep it N/A, but I was 2 days too late.

Anyhow, I've decided to continue the project in hopes that an ECU tweak for forced induction will alleviate this issue. It's definitely the only V6 I've ever owned that lacks low end punch that feels like it's computer limited (i.e., safety measures?)

Very likely. Can't beat it for the price!

Well if you have any questions feel free to PM me. :tup:

Any new news on this? Getting more annoyed every day. 20k miles and the same problem. today was real bad. at least 60% of the time I went from a stop in 1st gear it gave me no power until 4k rpm. Usually it is more like 40% of the time. Seems that when this happens it is about 4k rpm that all of the sudden the power comes back.

funny my cousins car does that to but my other cousins doesn't do that but his has 2500 miles on it and my other cousins has 35000 miles on ti weird right?

So you can understand our pain it sounds like.
What years are they? Any mods? Also, what oil and filter do you and he use?

I am about to pick up M4s 370 today and I did notice the same thing a couple of times while driving on the test drives. As long as you roll into the throttle it doesnt do it but what i dont understand is why the engine revs so slow when using the gas pedal but if you let the syncro rev match do its thing the throttle response is instant. maybe there is something here so maybe its somewhere between the pedal and the ecu/throttle body

Just a thought
anyone agree??

:tup:

I agree that if you roll into the throttle the car feels OK. You just have to train yourself to do that.

As far as the slow revving, I think it's just that electronic delay between your foot going down, progressively increasing the throttle, and the computer reading the potentiometer. With SRM, the computer just sends a command signal that basically says "5,000 rpm NOW!" and the engine reacts. With the throttle, the computer is reading progressive throttle input from 0% to whatever amount of throttle you give, so the engine isn't going to rev quite as quickly.

thats probably why i never notice it either, i always roll on the gas, rarely ever just mash it.

I actually disagree. I notice a delay with the SRM. What you may have to do is get to a cruising speed (I recommend ~50mph), put in neutral long enough for the SRM to "deactivate". Then put in 2nd. There is definitely a delay in it climbing up. I'm sure of it. It's just less perceptible since you aren't accelerating. It's only visual there.

The computer can get a reading from the gas pedal and respond in less than 1 microsecond. There shouldn't be a *perceptible* delay between reading the pedal and the car reacting.

Any more Group buy codes for this? Also will this work for the 2011 model? They say it's for the 2009-2010 but I assume it still should work.

... what?

Wrong thread?

mustang-
did you ever try DIGIs shim idea.

i havent noticed the problem in the last couple days but i was going to check it out this weekend. just wondered if you ever tried

I did, it didn't do anything for me.

I did not try it.

Honestly, if you don't really experience it or have found a way to drive around it I'd just do that. Or just boost the thing and forget about it forever. :icon17:

i just notice it doesnt drop the revs very quickly sometimes. like it revs up quick then holds and drops kinda slow. (in neutral) it could just the the flywheel but i thought the drive shaft is a carbon composite of some type so thats should let it rev pretty freely.

most of this could also be my head after reading topics like this.........
just gotta make it till 4 and go drive and enjoy it

You'll notice with regular driving that with SRM on, the engine revs hold for a moment while you are shifting gears. With SRM off, the revs drop much more quickly.

The mass of the flywheel does have some effect, but there is a very noticable difference with SRM on and SRM off.

hmm. interesting never considered that. SRM is fun to play with with you are hustling around a corner and the novelty will wear off im sure

but i will have to try driving with it off.