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19 row v. 25 row oil cooler

Originally Posted by NYBladeZ will the thermostat plate allow the engine to reach proper temps when its not as hot outside with a 25row? How hard is it to adjust,

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Old 05-04-2010, 12:12 AM   #1 (permalink)
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will the thermostat plate allow the engine to reach proper temps when its not as hot outside with a 25row? How hard is it to adjust, just trying to figure out the details before I order.
No -- you won't be able to get up to temperature on a cool spring/fall day or during the winter. You really just need a U shaped piece of sheet metal to slide over the top of the core during the cooler months.
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Old 05-04-2010, 08:09 AM   #2 (permalink)
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No -- you won't be able to get up to temperature on a cool spring/fall day or during the winter. You really just need a U shaped piece of sheet metal to slide over the top of the core during the cooler months.
For street use use the smaller of all those selections. You WILL need to block off some if it in the winter. Hit my Oil Cooler DIY link and scroll down to the "cool weather" mod section..
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:24 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Why would you need to block off a portion of the cooler (in cooler months) when the GTM has a thermostatic adapter. If you are running a straight adapter like most of the cheap ones you find, then yes you can over cool the oil, but a thermostat is designed to open and close based on temperature. It will just be closed more often in the winter than the summer. That being said, i would go w/ the larger unit.
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Old 05-04-2010, 09:27 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Why would you need to block off a portion of the cooler (in cooler months) when the GTM has a thermostatic adapter. If you are running a straight adapter like most of the cheap ones you find, then yes you can over cool the oil, but a thermostat is designed to open and close based on temperature. It will just be closed more often in the winter than the summer. That being said, i would go w/ the larger unit.
A thermostatic plate doesn't block all of the flow to the cooler. Say you are running a 180* thermostat, at temperatures below 180 degrees it is only about 90% closed.

This is going to make it very difficult for the oil temps to get to where you need them in the winter, so you want to block part of the cooler to reduce it's cooling ability and help get your temps up in cold weather.
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Old 05-04-2010, 10:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Why would you need to block off a portion of the cooler (in cooler months) when the GTM has a thermostatic adapter. If you are running a straight adapter like most of the cheap ones you find, then yes you can over cool the oil, but a thermostat is designed to open and close based on temperature. It will just be closed more often in the winter than the summer. That being said, i would go w/ the larger unit.
Apparently you did not bother reading the link I referred you to regarding how thermostatic plates work. External coolers with thermostatic plates are always circulating as Steve mentioned. From the Mocal site (and my oil cooler DIY):

Quote:
Mocal oil thermostats are designed to regulate oil flow
through cooling devices until optimal (minimum)
temperatures are reached. Cold oil enters the
thermostat and is bypassed through the center of the
unit returning to engine (figure 1). During warm-up
the thermostat never closes off oil flow to the cooler,
rather, it offers a less restrictive path for the oil to flow*
allowing the cooler to acclimate to system
temperature. As oil warms to 180 degrees (200 in high
temp versions) the operating "waxstat" closes the
bypass permitting full flow to cooler (figure 2).
*percentage of oil bypass can vary up to the point
where the bypass is closed and full flow to the cooler
is achieved.
This is to prevent thermal and pressure shocks from compromising the cooler. Temps below 50 degrees or so will need a shield to keep the oil temps in a 180+ range. This is also outlined in my DIY.
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:26 AM   #6 (permalink)
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I have read plenty on Mocal products, and have been using them for years. Oil like all fluids will take the path of least resistance. If you prick your garden hose with a push pin and then turn it on, you won't see much of any flow out of it. 99% will be coming out the large open end. This is going to be the same effect. I really doubt the small amount of oil going through the cooler is going to make a noticeable effect. Even with an overly large cooler.

If you are really concerned with this then i would suggest using the factory "coolant collar" that is used on some of the colder climate G37s. That would allow the coolant to help bring the oil up to temp quicker, as well as maintain more consistent temps.
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Old 05-06-2010, 10:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have read plenty on Mocal products, and have been using them for years. I really doubt the small amount of oil going through the cooler is going to make a noticeable effect. Even with an overly large cooler.
Have you ever felt the cooler after an install and firing it up from cold? A significant amount of circulation is readily evident almost immediately. I just did my 4th cooler install with these same parts just a week ago. The cooler will get fairly hot, well before the oil hits 180 degrees indicating more than a Pinholes worth of volume flowing through it. No one knows what percentage of bleed is occurring but Real world experience (on this car) has shown me that Desired temps cannot be reached very quickly, if ever, when it is cold out, using a commonly sized street cooler available in most kits. As Steve mentions above, a simple cover brings the cooler into the correct range when temps are cold out...
A simple U shaped piece of sheet metal works fine and the amount of blockage can be adjusted for your particular winter climate. Approx 1/3 blockage works for me in a North Carolina winter. More will be needed if you're up north:



Paint it black and it's all but invisible on the car. Takes but minutes to install or remove.

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