Traction Control, Sticky gas pedal, Ice mode???

ChrisSlicks

I can point you to the chapter in the service manual that describes the procedure. It can be performed by anyone that has a Consult III, which is basically Nissan/Infiniti dealers. It is really sad that 90% of the Nissan mechanics have no clue about the detail of how the electronics work in this car.

If your dealer isn't responsive just call Nissan Consumer Affairs and tell them that your vehicle is accelerating by itself. You will get their attention I promise!

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Philipp

Chris,
Going back to the dealer next week on this one. I'll keep you informed on the results... I hope not to have to rise this issue to a higher level since it looks like a "normal" maintenance/troubleshooting issue.
Phil

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ChrisSlicks

It's a rare occurrence, which is probably why the dealer is a little clueless. The pedals get calibrated to the car at the factory, and usually that is that. But it is possible that the original calibration wasn't perfect or something else changed causing a slight differential.

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DannyGT

I guess I will call my dealer up tomorrow. I have a fairly good relationship with them so hopefully I can get some answers. I still dont know what to think...I can see it being the SRM or the Pedal calibration but I think I'm leaning more towards something to do with SRM. Then again, when it rev'd to 2k for a few seconds while my foot was on the brake and the stick in neutral I dont know what the heck to think...LOL

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ChrisSlicks

If it only revs for a few seconds, then it is SRM. SRM doesn't care if you are braking, and it is active in neutral (can detect neutral gate position). SRM shuts down after about 3 seconds after you leave a gear.

If it revs for longer periods of time, especially while stationary (SRM is disabled while stationary) then it is a pedal problem.

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DannyGT

Well that confuses me even more, LOL...

The very last time it happened on a straight away, I came to a complete stop and my foot was on the brake and it still managed to keep an extremely precise hold on 2k for, I dont know, maybe 3-4 seconds. (with it in neutral) I didnt wait long enough and just blipped the trottle to see if it would get out of that mode and sure enough after I blipped, it dropped to idle normally.

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ChrisSlicks

Sounds like pedal then. The pedal is sticking just every so slightly. Recalibration might work, and it can even be calibrated with a slight deadzone if required. Ultimate solution would probably be to replace the pedal unit.

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DannyGT

Well, good news/bad news....

Bad news, it was doing it ALOT today with and without TC on for the first 15-30 minutes of my drive and randomly on sweeping turns where it would just keep the gas at a certain rpm.

Good news, I was almost kinda maybe (lol) reproduce it at will and I do think it now has something to do with the pedal. I was able to notice when it would particularly hang at a rpm, shift it into neutral and then blip the throttle enough to get it to stick. At the moment, I was like "AHA!" So I'm going to get deep in there tomorrow morning and see if there is anything that obvious and physical that might be causing this. If not, its going straight to the dealer and I'll request a new assembly.

Also, I want to point out that it never accelerates further than where it gets stuck. Example; if I'm taking a turn and the rpms go from 5k to 3k as im slowing down, it might get stuck at 3k and simply hold that rpm until im complete with the turn. Its still a very wierd sensation and its a bit scary but I never feel that its going to race through the gear and kill me either.

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semtex

Danny, what you're describing is not ice mode. Ice mode is something that is happening to some guys who have upgraded their brakes with BBKs. What happens is that the larger brakes have so much bite that it confuses the ABS into thinking that the brakes are locking up. So then the ABS releases the brakes! Bullitt5897 got the Alliance BBK, and a few weeks ago he asked if I'd meet up with him to do some side by side 60-0 brake tests and make a vid. I said sure. So we taped off a 100-ft. distance. My car was able to stop in 64 feet. His car would go into ice mode -- the ABS would ease off and allow his car to continue forward, not clamping down again until he was well past 100 feet. So oddly enough, upgrading our brakes on this car may actually backfire! Bullitt's plan right now is to swap out the brake pads to a less aggressive compound to see if that helps by dialing down the strength of the initial bite.

You can read more about it here: Braking problem - malfunctioning ABS

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travisjb

Just to be sure... please tell us if you are doing right hand or left hand turns when this happens... and how much fuel is in the tank when it happens... 1/4? 1/2?

try to make it happen with a full tank in a left hand turn... if you do that, we can rule out fuel starvation... but,

it almost sounds like fuel starvation given you are talking about the throttle cutting out on you... please describe it some more... is it a hard cut off at a very specific RPM - every time... or is it a loss of throttle and you just *happen* to be at a lower rpm, like 2,000?

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travisjb

RE the braking issue... which I don't think is what you're having, but I'll respond to this

My temp solution is to continue firming up the suspension... don't know if this will work yet... but after talking this through with a nissan test engineer that has 1,000s of hours tracking 370z's, I'm pretty certain the root cause is differential wheel spin rates... ie one wheel picks up off the ground (or just slightly) and spins at a different rate, freaking out the computer and putting it into a safe mode / ice mode braking condition... there might be an RPM cut-off that engages with this ice-mode, haven't confirmed... in any event, a very stiff suspension should minimize the wheel lift... obviously not a solution for everyone... the alternative right now is as chris says go with gentler brakes that are less likely to slow down any given wheel abruptly or perhaps find a different abs computer... no real good solutions just yet

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DannyGT

Trav, its not a cut off...

I dont want to say it accelerates because that makes it sound close to what the current issue is with some Toyota's. More like, when it happens, it HOLDS the rpm and throttle at that position for a few. It feels as if its driving itself for a few seconds while you pull off the throttle. Imagine you pulling off the throttle while your going around a bend and something gets caught in the pedal and you continue at that position instead of the car gradually slowing down.

The thing is, I have been able to sort-of replicate this while going straight and coming to complete stops and having the throttle peg'd at 2-4k rpms. I'm really leaning towards a pedal calibration.

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travisjb

Danny, I'm at a loss... I'm pretty sure that's never happened to me. Your theory about pedal calibration is as good as anything I might come up with.

Anyone know if Nissan is using the same pedal assembly that Toyota has been using? Not trying to be cute, here... who makes our pedal assembly?

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ChrisSlicks

Danny if it is happening at 2K-4K then calibration isn't going to fix it, that only fixes the off idle position.

There is either something causing the pedal to physically bind and stick in a position or there is something wrong with the resistive strip. The inside of the pedal isn't all that unlike the fuel sender, if contaminates get on the surfaces it may misbehave. But other than checking for binding issues don't take your pedal apart, just get it replaced.

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Philipp

Danny,
I had it again today, but this time is was between two boulevard stops. Fuel tank was full and engine at normal temp.
Did try to reproduce the isse without any luck. On Friday, the dealer told me that if they can't reproduce the issue, he doughts they can do anything
Leaving the car at the dealer on May 6th (the whole day this time).

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2009 370z, MT & Sport package.
DynoPack (stock): 268.8WHP & 224.4 Torque//K&N filters//Air cabin filter//HPS Tubes//Tune to come when VVEL...