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Originally Posted by SPDKING It just does not even attempt to start the motor at all So the symptom is sometimes crank, sometimes no crank at all, correct?
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#1 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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So the symptom is sometimes crank, sometimes no crank at all, correct?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Base Member
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Correct. Full tank of gas, practically new battery, new fob battery (but it's weird that this started happening after changing the fob battery). I was driving around for some time below a half a tank of gas until I filled it up.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Dec 2016
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I did not think about this, I read around after you mentioned it and I tried starting it again today and it's always telling me to push the clutch in even though I'm pushing it in. It started 2 out of 10 times I tried.
Do you know where the switch is and how to replace it?
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Base Member
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It's a switch on the upper backside of the clutch pedal. It's adjustable on the original clutch pedal, I think? Should just loosen nut and rotate switch out a bit so it gets depressed all the way. Most of us have the RJM clutch pedal replacement though.
Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
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This. I also have the RJM pedal assembly, but I fully suspect that the switch can be adjusted on the stock assembly. You will have to get down into the driver's footwell and get access to the switch. The space is tight. The switch screws into the assembly bracket and is held in position with a lock/retainer nut. If I recall correctly, the nut is a 14 mm. Loosen the nut and spin the switch out 1-2 turns and see if that helps. You may have to disconnect/unplug the wiring to the switch to allow it to spin. There is a release tab on the wiring connector that you'll need to depress while gently pulling the wiring plug out. Once done, re-tighten the nut, re-connect the wiring plug, crawl back out and test it. Also, note that there are two switches mounted on the assembly bracket ... the clutch switch as well as a cruise control switch. It should be obvious which is which. If I remember correctly, the clutch switch is the lower one. If the problem persists after the adjustment, it could be that the switch itself is defective. Trust this helps.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Kimberley, BC, CANADA
Posts: 458
Drives: 13 370Z BS M6 Sport
Rep Power: 441 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Sorry, but it's been a few years since I fussed with the pedal assembly. Upon further reflection, I don't think that the switch actually screws into the assembly bracket, but rather it's held place with two nuts. In other words, the bracket itself is not threaded. Instead, the switch mounts through a hole in the bracket and is secured in place by two nuts ... one on each side of the bracket. It will be obvious once you see it. Good luck!
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