Inconsistent starting 2014 370Z (6spd)

SPDKING

As the title suggests, I noticed yesterday there's been inconsistent starting. It happens even more so after driving for some time.

I was below a half a tank so I did fill up to full (after having to use a gas can) thinking it night be related to the fuel pump issues these cars are plauged with.

But, even with a full tank and checking the battery terminals, sometimes it starts, sometimes she doesn't. I press and hold the start button while pressing the clutch like normal and it just turns the radio and AC on, I hear the fuel pump activating when I press the button again but she won't start up.

I'm a bit confused considering she hasn't even reached 50k miles yet so I figured it couldn't be the starter going bad or the spark plugs going bad. It just does not even attempt to start the motor at all and there's clearly power from a 1 year old battery. Also, I did recently change the battery in the fob but I don't know if that has to do with this. Any ideas whats going on here?

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

cv129

So the symptom is sometimes crank, sometimes no crank at all, correct?

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

SPDKING

Correct. Full tank of gas, practically new battery, new fob battery (but it's weird that this started happening after changing the fob battery). I was driving around for some time below a half a tank of gas until I filled it up.

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

40 to 332

Faulty clutch switch?

SPDKING

I did not think about this, I read around after you mentioned it and I tried starting it again today and it's always telling me to push the clutch in even though I'm pushing it in. It started 2 out of 10 times I tried.

Do you know where the switch is and how to replace it?

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

Inflaymes

It's a switch on the upper backside of the clutch pedal. It's adjustable on the original clutch pedal, I think? Should just loosen nut and rotate switch out a bit so it gets depressed all the way. Most of us have the RJM clutch pedal replacement though.

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SPDKING

Thank you everyone!! I'm going to tinker with the clutch switch to see if that's the issue this weekend but I'm seeing a theme that I should probably switch to a RJM clutch pedal assembly.

I always thought I did all of the upgrades to prevent any reliability problems like the oil cooler, changed to a heavy duty CSC, upgraded the radiator but I guess not. I skipped the fuel starvation upgrades because I usually just keep a full tank to prevent that most of the time.

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

40 to 332

No worries. Note that you may not need to unplug the wire leading to the switch ... but unplugging it and moving it aside may give you more room to fiddle with the two nuts holding the switch in place. You will want to adjust the switch such that when the pedal is depressed, the spring-loaded pin on the switch is fully depressed against the rubber bumper pad. You can check this while you're in the footwell by grabbing the pedal and pulling it downward and making sure that the pin fully retracts into the body of the switch. In fact, this should probably be your first step. Get into the footwell and depress the pedal and determine if the pin fully retracts. If not, then proceed to adjust the position of the switch as described above.
Again, sorry for any confusion. Things should be obvious to you once you start examining the pedal once you're in the footwell.

SPDKING

You are the real McCoy, got under the foot-well unplugged and unscrewed the old switch, installed the new one and no issues at all. Started up 5 out of 5 times like normal and it was only a 5 minute operation. This tiny issue should definitely be up there with the CSC, limp mode and fuel starvation failures.

I just adjusted the switch exactly in the position how I saw the original before I started unscrewing it and no issues at all. Thank you so much for your help!

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Stillen front and rear sway bars/Continental Extreme Tires/Annex Suspension Coilovers/Z1 Oil Cooler/Borla Catback Exhaust/K&N Drop in filters/SPL

40 to 332

No worries ... glad to be of assistance. Actually, I carry a spare switch in the car (... along with tools) in case it fails. As you discovered, it's relatively simple to change out/adjust if ever needed.