ECU Fuse Keeps Blowing after Trackday - No CEL - TT

Averying

So if you just leave the car idling it would still die after a few minutes? Or is it only once you get driving the car?

Maybe the drivetrain movement is causing a short and that’s why you’re not picking it up when testing with a DMM and the battery unplugged? I see that you shook the cables though which would be more movement than from the engine/transmission rocking around during load…




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2009 Sport Touring | Platinum Graphite | GTM Stage 1 Supercharger | BC BR Coilovers | Hotchkis Swaybar | Z1 FUCAs | AME TM-02 Wheels | Z1 2-piece Front Rotors | Z1 Clutch & Flywheel | Invidia Gemini Catback | GTM Resonated Test Pipes

JimmyK

Hey Averying, thanks for the reply! I can leave it idling for longer than 30 mins, blip or hold the revs, etc without it blowing the fuse. Once i start driving it blows the fuse within a few mins, and that degraded from 10+ mins on the first fuse.

Agreed, though the movement I made still doesn't shake everything everywhere, only where I could reach. I'll keep hunting for a short, but that could be a long long search, and it feels like I'm chasing a ghost.

Averying

Sounds like the Crank position sensor is the only wire that visually looks like it could be the culprit. Some more info about that might be good to know.

Where it’s frayed.. how close does it come to a surface that would ground it out? What is it fraying on? How bad is it frayed? Hopefully no exposed wire.


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2009 Sport Touring | Platinum Graphite | GTM Stage 1 Supercharger | BC BR Coilovers | Hotchkis Swaybar | Z1 FUCAs | AME TM-02 Wheels | Z1 2-piece Front Rotors | Z1 Clutch & Flywheel | Invidia Gemini Catback | GTM Resonated Test Pipes

JimmyK

Hey, thanks again for the reply!

So at the point at which the jacket/heat insulation is melted/burned away, there isn't anything that close by, but it's definitely about 24 inches between the tie-down or stake points so that harness could move.

That said the three cables are not frayed or exposed. I also, while idling, used a gripper tool to grab the insulated portion that wasn't burned away and shake the wire very extensively to see if I can get it to pop the fuse, and I didn't get any short. That said, even though this is not on fuse 50, it's still tied to the ECU so I can figure out what pins it connects to the ECU on and possibly to the IPDM on, and test it. I'll let you know how that goes as soon as I can do the test. Thanks for the suggestion and I'll try to test it is extensively as I can.