What did I break!!!

phunk · 10-27-2022, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ihaveashihtzu

It seems that he left the car in gear to hold the crank from spinning vs. using the starter and breaker bar on the ground method.

Yes, but the clutch is not between the flywheel and crank pulley. The starter leveraged the flywheel, which transferred torque through the crankshaft to the pulley bolt and tools he had wedged up. There would be no unusual stress to the clutch assembly while doing this.

ihaveashihtzu · 10-27-2022, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Yes, but the clutch is not between the flywheel and crank pulley. The starter leveraged the flywheel, which transferred torque through the crankshaft to the pulley bolt and tools he had wedged up. There would be no unusual stress to the clutch assembly while doing this.

From his old thread he mentioned he didn't use the starter at all, no?

He left it in gear and tried to manually loosen the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar.

What am I missing?

phunk · 10-27-2022, 09:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ihaveashihtzu

From his old thread he mentioned he didn't use the starter at all, no?

He left it in gear and tried to manually loosen the crank pulley bolt with a breaker bar.

What am I missing?

Someone said they bumped the starter, I thought that was him, but I guess it was someone else that said that.

If he got it off by putting the car in gear and using the drivetrain to keep the crankshaft from rotating, than it would have loaded the clutch concentrically, like when you drive.

ZoomZ · 10-29-2022, 12:04 AM

No Guys. I did NOT bump the starter to remove crank pulley. Another guy did.

I used transmission and PB to hold everything while I tried to undo crank shaft bolt with breaker bar.

So clutch would be engaged to flywheel.

z

Rusty · 10-29-2022, 01:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZoomZ

No Guys. I did NOT bump the starter to remove crank pulley. Another guy did.

I used transmission and PB to hold everything while I tried to undo crank shaft bolt with breaker bar.

So clutch would be engaged to flywheel.

z

That's how I did it. I had the breaker bar up between the radiator and motor. With a section of pipe on the end of the breaker bar. Had a 2" extension for the socket.

ZoomZ · 10-29-2022, 10:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

That's how I did it. I had the breaker bar up between the radiator and motor. With a section of pipe on the end of the breaker bar. Had a 2" extension for the socket.

I was there too. Tried every which way. The Bugger is tight.

ZoomZ · 11-12-2022, 02:03 PM

Please verify/add to my progression of troubleshooting and future steps in order to solve this.

Today, I inspected from Clutch Reservoir down to pedal assembly. Found nothing broken, loose or leaking.

I did a complete flush and bleed of Clutch fluid with RBF600. Got some air out, but negligible. Can't really say how I would have introduced air to begin with. That portion is eliminated.

Test drive produced same results. Engaging on a hill, is very difficult as I cannot feel clutch grabbing and I'm almost at top of pedal travel. Something I would have to get used to.

So the next easy, least expensive and intrusive step is to replace the pedal assy and MC with RJM kit. Is this logical? or is there anything else I can do without removing transmission?

and I am owing $2000 to ZSpeed for clutch kit.

10-29-2022, 12:04 AM	#4 (permalink)
ZoomZ Track Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 817 Drives: 17' 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 40657	No Guys. I did NOT bump the starter to remove crank pulley. Another guy did. I used transmission and PB to hold everything while I tried to undo crank shaft bolt with breaker bar. So clutch would be engaged to flywheel. z Rusty and redondoaveb like this.

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11-12-2022, 02:03 PM	#7 (permalink)
ZoomZ Track Member Join Date: Jan 2017 Location: Vancouver, BC Posts: 817 Drives: 17' 370Z Nismo Rep Power: 40657	Please verify/add to my progression of troubleshooting and future steps in order to solve this. Today, I inspected from Clutch Reservoir down to pedal assembly. Found nothing broken, loose or leaking. I did a complete flush and bleed of Clutch fluid with RBF600. Got some air out, but negligible. Can't really say how I would have introduced air to begin with. That portion is eliminated. Test drive produced same results. Engaging on a hill, is very difficult as I cannot feel clutch grabbing and I'm almost at top of pedal travel. Something I would have to get used to. So the next easy, least expensive and intrusive step is to replace the pedal assy and MC with RJM kit. Is this logical? or is there anything else I can do without removing transmission? and I am owing $2000 to ZSpeed for clutch kit.