Clutch Issue 2015 370z Nismo 39K Miles

Zed-Leppelin · 02-16-2022, 03:31 PM

Thank you ZonTheRocks !

I appreciate the info...two additional questions...

1. If the fluid in the master cylinder is still at the max fill line, is the fluid leaking somewhere else and wouldn't it drain the master cylinder a bit?

2. You wouldn't happen to know what an average repair cost is on this would you? Just anything ballpark would help.

I am trying to make a decision on whether to try and tackle the repair myself or just hand it off to a repair shop. Which I don't really want to do...because I don't want any scratches or greasy mechanic smells in the car...which have been known to happen with other vehicles...

The car is extremely well taken care of and not a blemish inside or out anywhere...and I really want to keep it that way...but at the same time...my mechanic skills are not the best

Anyway - thanks!

2011 Nismo#91 · 02-17-2022, 06:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zed-Leppelin

1. If the fluid in the master cylinder is still at the max fill line, is the fluid leaking somewhere else and wouldn't it drain the master cylinder a bit.

More often then not it is not the master cylinder. (IMO I don't think they fail as often as people say they do, they just assume it has failed. Anyway) You'd rarely see a leak or a drop in fluid level. The "leak" is with a seal in the cylinder, fluid just travels around the seal and back again never developing any pressure.

ZontheRocks · 02-17-2022, 08:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zed-Leppelin

Thank you ZonTheRocks !

I appreciate the info...two additional questions...

1. If the fluid in the master cylinder is still at the max fill line, is the fluid leaking somewhere else and wouldn't it drain the master cylinder a bit?

2. You wouldn't happen to know what an average repair cost is on this would you? Just anything ballpark would help.

I am trying to make a decision on whether to try and tackle the repair myself or just hand it off to a repair shop. Which I don't really want to do...because I don't want any scratches or greasy mechanic smells in the car...which have been known to happen with other vehicles...

The car is extremely well taken care of and not a blemish inside or out anywhere...and I really want to keep it that way...but at the same time...my mechanic skills are not the best

Anyway - thanks!

Contact Joe at ZSpeed. He has the experience with the replacement as it is his parts that you should be purchasing! The transmission has to be dropped, which will be the majority of the costs.

I would not recommend DYI if this is not something you are familiar with / don't have a garage to house the vehicle / lack all necessary tools.

40 to 332 · 02-17-2022, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ZontheRocks

Contact Joe at ZSpeed. He has the experience with the replacement as it is his parts that you should be purchasing! The transmission has to be dropped, which will be the majority of the costs.

I would not recommend DYI if this is not something you are familiar with / don't have a garage to house the vehicle / lack all necessary tools.

While you're at it, I would recommend talking with Ryan at RJM. He offers a heavy-duty CMC as well as a clutch pedal assembly that greatly improves the shifting experience. If you combine the Z Speed and RJM components, you should end up with a bullet-proof clutch system. Also, bleed the system regularly using a high-quality DOT 4 fluid, such as Motul 600, ATE TYP200, Castrol SRF or equivalent.

Zed-Leppelin · 03-23-2022, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 40 to 332

While you're at it, I would recommend talking with Ryan at RJM. He offers a heavy-duty CMC as well as a clutch pedal assembly that greatly improves the shifting experience. If you combine the Z Speed and RJM components, you should end up with a bullet-proof clutch system. Also, bleed the system regularly using a high-quality DOT 4 fluid, such as Motul 600, ATE TYP200, Castrol SRF or equivalent.

Thank you for this info!

Zed-Leppelin · 03-27-2022, 03:23 PM

Hey all..I decided to tackle this myself and I have arrived at stage one...

Removal of the transmission! I have to give credit to Carizon with his YouTube channel and in particular this FANTASTIC "how to" video he created: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NMIwhJn2xuI

Without his help and some help from a very good friend of mine, I would not be this far

Now I am trying to decide a few things...
1. If I should go back with the Z1 elimination kit or OEM?
2. Should I replace the clutch and pressure plate while I am in there?
3. Should I replace the Flywheel as well?

-mgm
(a.k.a. Zed-Leppeln)

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02-16-2022, 03:31 PM	#1 (permalink)
Zed-Leppelin Base Member Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 20 Drives: 2015 370z Nismo Rep Power: 2574	Thank you ZonTheRocks ! I appreciate the info...two additional questions... 1. If the fluid in the master cylinder is still at the max fill line, is the fluid leaking somewhere else and wouldn't it drain the master cylinder a bit? 2. You wouldn't happen to know what an average repair cost is on this would you? Just anything ballpark would help. I am trying to make a decision on whether to try and tackle the repair myself or just hand it off to a repair shop. Which I don't really want to do...because I don't want any scratches or greasy mechanic smells in the car...which have been known to happen with other vehicles... The car is extremely well taken care of and not a blemish inside or out anywhere...and I really want to keep it that way...but at the same time...my mechanic skills are not the best Anyway - thanks!