New clutch time
 

Most of you know my csc failed at Zdayz on the dragon so it's upgrade time while it's apart.

I'm looking at 2 kits from Zspeed. Seems the only difference is the flywheel. I don't know enough metallurgy to know which one's better and I wouldn't think the 1lb difference would matter much. Is the SBC better or can I toss that $100 in a jar for a rjm pedal?

https://zspeed.com/product/south-ben...-complete-kit/

or

https://zspeed.com/product/zspeed-st...clutch-system/

EDIT:

Z1 poly trans mount? any other options?

Nismo pilot bearing? any reason to not spend that $14
many reasons to avoid it

Anything else while it's out? It's at 63k. Going to inspect the rear main seal but didn't plan on replacing it unless it shows signs of seepage.

What did I miss?

You miss yours,Spoiler’s & Rusty’s old ladies breaking bad on the dance floor; also your cold ones wrapped up in a hoodie :happydance:

Clean all hardware up with a rethreader kit & just take your time...you mentioned a Torrington style pilot bearing vs. the bronze bushing,don’t forget to drain gear oil before installing cmak...watched someone do it :wtf2:

What size thread chaser is that?

Thanks for the reminder on the bearing, I might have had a beer since then :roflpuke2:

The fluid is coming out as soon as it's off the ground. I'm sure it needs changed after the trip home:driving:

Forgot the mount to. Was going to get a Z1 poly unless someone has a better option.

Had good results with the Z1 poly. Solid mount NVH will knock some plaque loose, stroke you out.

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Stick with the Bronze pilot bushings. The Torrington styles just don't last and are a complete pain in the butt to get back out. Ask me how I know. You will need new flywheel bolts, they are Torque to Yield bolts. One use only.

Can’t remember size’s; as this was done September 18’
I brought my kit & they’re not badly priced & clean up bolts & hoes very well :wtf2:
Didn’t know the flywheel bolts were torque to yield (as Spooler mentioned) as the book had given a value on them & that’s what we used.
Also we used a flywheel turning tool to hold everything steady while torquing flywheel bolts....it rest nicely on the right side subframe mount without damaging handle of tool & is out the way of your torquing :ugh2:

get the south bend billet steel flywheel, almost no noise and it comes with bolts if i remember correctly

So you are dead set on Joe’s Z Speed Stage 3 clutch? If you are planing on more track days in your future get the RJM petal. The weight difference between his forge steel and billet steel flywheel you will never notice. If you do more street duty with your Z get the forge steel flywheel and if you do more track duty with your Z get the billet steel flywheel you can’t go wrong with either. You can get any replacement brand polyurethane transmission mount just don’t get the solid transmission mount unless your Z is a deadicated track car. Honestly I never once seen a rear main seal leak on a Nissan a specially our Z’s leak. Unless you see your rear main seal leaking or abnormally wet with oil don’t replace your rear main seal and if you do replace it use the replacement Genuine Nissan rear main seal. +1 on the bronze pilot bearing they are very durable and last. Make sure you replace your flywheel bolts as they can only be used once and don’t forget to replace your pressure plate bolts they are important.

Not dead set on anything other than the CMAK. I was shopping Zspeed since their kits have about everything I need and free shipping.

It sees more street than track. I'm looking in to more hpde and I take it 1/2 mile drag/roll racing once a year. 30-50 2 step launches over 2 days. I was shopping the stage 3s knowing the ultra light flywheel will not launch as well but will be better on a road coarse and in the mountains. It will hold way more power than I'll make anytime soon but I liked having the overhead.

The rjm pedal is in my sights but at the bottom of the list for now.


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I went went with the JWT Clutch and Iron flywheel combo, the JWT clutch can handle up to 600 horsepower and a lot of people said they are great. Plus for the price it's really great. https://conceptzperformance.com/jim-...ktb_p_2423.php

And the Heavy Duty CSC by Z Speed instead of the CMAK because people have come across problems with the CMAK https://conceptzperformance.com/z-sp...006_p_4593.php

Keep in mind, if you go from the stock dual mass flywheel to ANYTHING ELSE, the transmission chatter will increase regardless if they are advertised as "quiet". Just a warning because it looks like the clutch kit your looking at, that flywheel is 19lbs vs the stock 32lbs which will increase the noise if you care.

I went with the Z1 Clutch/Flywheel kit along with a ZSpeed HD-CSC. Have been very happy with the setup and haven't had any issues even with the TT torque increase.

I think if I did it all over again, I would have skipped the flywheel upgrade to keep the chatter down as my car doesn't see any track time.

while you're doing the clutch and slave fix, get a lightweight flywheel and the RJM clutch pedal

I don't think he wants the extra noise

It can sound like bolts in a dryer for all I care. Both kits I listed have sub 20lb flywheels.

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I think they more sound like two nuts rattling in a tin can..Two very large nuts....that's why our cars push out so much power haha. If your driving style requires a lightweight flywheel then it should be fine. Just expect off the line performance to suffer, cruising ability to suffer and you'll have to be timing your shifts faster and fuel economy going down aka you're going to have to adjust your driving style. In any event, if you don't care about that, why not just go balls deep and get the 15lb flywheel so you get the most out of this upgrade? It's a steeper learning curve than the 20lb but you'll get more bang for buck.
Jim Wolf Technology website

I don't want an aluminum flywheel and the iron JWT flywheel is 26lbs.

What problems are they having? I've seen nothing but praise with the V2.


Anyone running Z1s 14lb flywheel? I was told to go as light as possible and I can piece meal the parts with a Z1 clutch and Zspeed hydraulics for about $1350.

It's down to that or the Zspeed kit for $1450 with a 18lb flywheel.

I picked up a metric set off amazon. Nothing super fancy but should get the job done just fine.


Going to start draining fluids and pulling parts off it today.

The aluminum flywheel uses a steel ring for the fiction area of the clutch disk. What I have read. It's not a good DD flywheel. The steel ring doesn't transfer the heat too good to the aluminum. For track, it good.

Most people seem to have to adjust the Z1 CMAK set up more often. The ZSpeed is set it and forget it. There have been some teething problems with both. But the ZSpeed is the one I would get.

That Z1 14lbs flywheel is nice. But remember. The lighter the wheel, the less rotating mass you have. Hole shots will take more rpms so that you don't bog off the line. Down shifts with out rev match or heal and toe will lock the rear tires for a moment. Used to call this compression patches. :rofl2: Your upshifts will take some getting use to. As the engine will now spin faster and lose rpms faster between shifts. And with a lighter flywheel. It may set off the knock sensors.

My set-up would be the Z1 14 lbs flywheel. The OS Giken TR series dual disk clutch, ZSpeed CMAK, RJM clutch pedal, Tilton master cylinder Coolworxs shifter, and a Z1 poly tranny mount. And pray that it doesn't set off the knock sensors.

I'm going with Joe's steel flywheel (thought it was 17 lbs, not 18 but w/e). He recommended it to me even when I asked for the lightest one possible. Not buying anything Z1 anymore, so their flywheel is out.

I have the Z1 road race clutch/flywheel package, Z1 CSCEK, Nismo pilot bearing, RJM pedal and CMC, Z1 poly trans bushings, Coolerworx shifter. Easy to drive on and off the track, no knock sensors set off. I think it is a great set up.

Exactly why I have no interest in one. If it was track only sure but it's not.

Read of too many people that have had nothing but problems with the Z1 CSC delete and the ride back to the G after the breakdown was in a car with the Z1 kit. I truly believe that one was not installed right, it felt like something was binding when depressing the pedal.
Anyway the Zspeed CMAK has been on the list of too dos for a long time.

And I don't do any real competitive drag racing. The 1/2 mile event I do is more like a 2 day free for all test and tune than something like the TX 1/2 mile or WannaGoFast. I really thought that is where I would break the CSC by doing repetitive launches with the 2 step after it was already a bit hot but a lazy 2-3 on a cool morning was all the more she could take.


I'm really looking at the rjm pedal and going with the Z1 kit+mount, Zspeed cmak, oem cmc, and only be slightly over budget once I add the little stuff and a few tools. I got a head coming for the floor jack too.


That would be my second pick. It looks like a really nice setup. The weight savings and $$ savings are both pointing me this way. I get the lightest steel FW and half the rjm pedal is paid for.

After staring at the rjm web site an hour and seeing only 6 left I pulled the trigger. If i thought about it any longer they would be out of stock. It takes a couple weeks to build and ship anyway so might as well get that ball rolling.

You're relocating something out of the original location the engineers designed it to be and work in. Just like someone said, there are teething problems because of always adjusting the clutch and the install is a little more time consuming versus basically just doing a regular clutch install like the Heavy Duty CSC. The pedal feel is also consistent as well. The heavy duty CSC also costs less. Z Speed makes both the CMAK and the HD CSC, talk to them. Also, I thought you didn't care for the heavier flywheels? Why not just get the 15 or 14lb ones and call it a day?

The CMAK is self-adjusting. The Z1 CSCEK has to be adjusted.

I've had the Z1 kit for several years now. It is an annoyance (though easy) to adjust and it's not made with quality parts. I've had to replace the cylinder about every 12-15K miles (over 50K miles on the kit). I thought I might be doing something wrong, but I still experienced the same failure rate even after having Austin Z Clinic replace it for me.

My HD-CSC has been problem free... I feel similarly to SPDKING here. Moving to an HD-CSC solves the problem without making a larger design change from what the Nissan engineers intended.

If you'll remember the 350Z had some similar CSC issues with the internal OEM one and Nissan designed an external slave for later year models. The Z1 kit was based off that design. So it's not like Nissan hasn't done a major design change like this before...

Didn't know that, and I had a 350! Surprised they made a similar mistake on the 370.

I, for one, am not surprised at all.

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Yes but there has to be reason why they went back to that, they aren't Porsche where they are stubborn and won't change a design.

Well, the above is a load of crap. I have driven for years with an aluminum flywheel that has steel frictions. It works just fine. I am not sure where folks got that from. Guess it is internet rumor.

As far as what clutch to get, that is so hard to say. Everyone has their own expectations. Call Joe at Zspeed and talk to him since he deals with this stuff constantly.

It's almost like you didn't read the thread at all.

As I said above a few days ago, going with Z1 14lb flywheel.

Other than guessing that moving to a cmak will cause issues just because, can you point to any thread where people are having problems with the V3.x cmaks. Any actual instances of recurring issues? I have seen nothing but praise since the V2 was released. If I missed something post some links, until then it's either hearsay or conjecture.

And I'll say it again. The trans won't go back in the car with the hydraulics inside the bell housing. I don't care how great the HDCSC might be. If it fails the trans has to come out and there is a good chance it will ruin the clutch disk when it sprays brake fluid inside the bell housing when it goes. Until I smoke this clutch the trans is staying in the car.

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If I get rained out I'll give him a call. Hard to find time during business hours when I'm working 12+ a day.

I think I have a pretty good list going. I've got a little time before placing the order and will give Joe a call if I get a chance to.

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Call Z Speed, they literally make BOTH of them and did testing on both of them. It was the Owner of L Spec in California that talked about the CMAK issues and Z Speed recommending the HD CSC over the CMAK when I was planning on getting the CMAK. That was a while ago and so I don't have links for you except those two companies

Hey crappy head. I got my info from some track rats. First hand. :shakes head:

Like I said, I have done it for years. Never had one issue driving one on the street.

Yessss, Flywheel War IV! I'll keep it going: I have a Grok Industries millstone in my Flintstonemobile and haven't had a problem since 5100 B.C.

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This is turning into a **** show. I'm going to grab some popcorn and ask a few more questions

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It was not meant to be. This is my personal experience. Not a he said she said.

It's all good. I'm sure I could run the aluminum JWT FW just fine, I just have no need for saving the extra pound vs the cost and longevity. If i had time to get in on more track days maybe. But right now I'll be alright.

I sent an email to Joe giving him the breakdown on what i do and a parts list of what i want. If he tosses a red flag on something I'll let you guys go at it again :inoutroflpuke:

I'm guessing it was quite a while ago since there is not one complete clutch kit on Zspeeds page that does not have the v3 cmak. There is not one kit with the HDCSC. I know the first run of them had a few issues that had to be worked out but the v3 has more than proven itself to be the go to for relocation.


I have an email sent off to Joe. We'll see what he has to say. My money is on the cmak.

Ok, I'm home now, and not distracted. Last year at a trackday. Was talking to a couple of other drivers. The subject of aluminum flywheels come up. The consensus was that they are great for the track. For street use. There is more slipping of the clutch to get moving because of lack of inertia. You have to change your driving style for it. In stop and go traffic. This extra slipping has lead to deep heat spots on the friction ring. A couple guys said that it affected disk life and feel for the clutch. 3 said that they switched back to steel. The other 4 still running the aluminum. But these guys change the friction ring on a regular schedule. The one guy had a pic on his phone and the friction ring was a solid blue. To turn blue. That's about 650F to 750F.