No power.

[shirokenkami]

Car only has 48k miles. Tried doing a search on this and found some information but it didn't match my symptoms completely. Upon starting the car it only gets up to maybe 20% total power throughout the whole power band or at least up till 4700 rpm which was the most I'd let it. You can mash the accelerator and the vehicle will have absolutely NO power, RPM's will climb but it's just not there power wise. Is this perhaps due to it being cold? When these symptoms occur I can stop the car, turn it off, restart it, and it will be back to normal and the power is back but the oil temps will still be showing under 140-150 degrees. Is this the Throttle Body issue I've heard about or something else entirely? I haven't ran to see if it has any codes thrown(no dummy lights), I'll check it and see when I get it back on Monday.

[cjwsrt6]

Happens to me on cold mornings but I haven't been able to find the cause either

[lj909]

Minimum operating oil temp should be 180.

But i don't think the z has a safety mode like that unless your tuned. I believe ecutek has a minimum oil temp safety mode that can be activated

[P's_Z]

Check/clean air filter, maf sensors and throttle bodies. This has happened to me before and with cleaning the TBs the problem disappears, although right now i have a similar problem and none of these have worked

Taking it to the dealer on monday

[cjwsrt6]

Just trying to troubleshoot, do either of you get the low battery in your fob warning?

[P's_Z]

No, not recently or while having this issue, last time it happened was about a month ago.

[cjwsrt6]

Well scratch that, I've noticed my key battery low and this is intermittent when it's low.. I'm gonna unplug my negative and reset it and try. If that doesn't work I'll probably get a new battery and see that

[SouthArk370Z]

Originally Posted by cjwsrt6

Well scratch that, I've noticed my key battery low and this is intermittent when it's low.. I'm gonna unplug my negative and reset it and try. If that doesn't work I'll probably get a new battery and see that

If you mean getting a new car battery, your voltmeter will give you a good indication of the battery's condition. If the meter gets above 14-14.5 V while the engine is running (charging system is working) and stays above 13 V when the engine is off, then the battery is (probably) good.
Another indicator of battery condition is how fast the motor cranks when starting. Unless you've noticed it getting slower, the battery should be good.

The key battery has nothing to do with the way the engine runs (except starting).

When you pull a battery cable, the ECM forgets some of its tuning data and it takes a while to relearn. Older 370Zs will also need to have the windows reset and radio presets reprogrammed. There is a reset procedure that does not require removing a battery cable and preserves tuning/radio data (search is your friend or see FSM).

[cjwsrt6]

Both batteries, my car is a 2013 and I like to replace batteries every three years, since it's winter now is a decent time

[SouthArk370Z]

Originally Posted by cjwsrt6

Both batteries, my car is a 2013 and I like to replace batteries every three years, since it's winter now is a decent time

A properly maintained car battery can last 5 years or more (the voltmeter will help you track condition) but I can't blame anyone for playing it safe.

[shirokenkami]

Originally Posted by cjwsrt6

Well scratch that, I've noticed my key battery low and this is intermittent when it's low.. I'm gonna unplug my negative and reset it and try. If that doesn't work I'll probably get a new battery and see that

Key battery will have no bearing on how the vehicle performs.

[shirokenkami]

I'll clean the MAF sensors when I get it back today from the body shop. It has new air filters already so that's out.

[B&W_Evader]

Original factory battery is still going strong after 5 years here. But it doesn't get below freezing very often and the car is driven all the time so it never gets low on power. That helps a lot with life expectancy.

[/Angelo350Z/]

BUMP

This first happened to me two weeks after I purchased the Z four years ago. I've been driving for about 30 minutes so the engine was warm. I stopped at a red light, but once it turned green, there was a significant loss in power. The car didn't stall or anything, but the throttle response felt very flat. I pushed the gas pedal to the floor, but the car barely accelerated. I pulled into a parking lot, turned off the car, started it back up, and everything was back to normal. So odd. This happened maybe once every six months, so it didn't really bother me.

Fast forward a few years, and my car sat in the garage through the winter. Once I took the Z out for a drive last week, the same symptoms appeared. I didn't think too much of it, as the problem always went away almost immediately; all I had to do was shut it off and turn it back on. This time, however, the flat throttle response did not disappear until the third time I turned the car off and on. Whatever it is, I'm pretty sure the ECU is reading a soft trouble code, that's why the problem disappears when the motor is turned off and turned back on. My question is, what component could be the culprit? It happened when my Z was bone stock and it's happening now with the typical breathing mods. Any ideas?

[ItsOmega]

I am experiencing this problem right now. I would smash the gas pedal to the floor, hardly no response (rpm). Turn the car off/turn back on, some times it’ll stall out or it’ll act it’ll stall out then the gas response would be normal again. Sometimes this problem would happen during mid driving.

Any solution?