Engine Ticking Noise Rythmic
 

My Z decided to start making a ticking noise when leaving a store one day. It’s never made loud valvetrain noise ever. It wasn’t on a cold start and it’s not at idle like some other posts have said. I’ve tried to research as much as I could before posting this.

The noise: it isn’t a loud rumble, it’s not a “knock” it’s more of a rhythmic loud-ish tick between 2200-4000 rpms on on throttle and stops ticking when the throttle has been let off completely no matter the rpms. I can hold the rpms steady and the noise happens.

There was 5W-30 synthetic oil in the engine unfortunately I was not running ester oil. I switched immediately to redline, and it’s been about 500 miles since the switch. The noise hasn’t gotten worse or better. I’m going to post a video of the noise soon. Power is the same and no vibrations.

370Z engines tend to be noisy - if it's not the valve train, it's the clutch; if not the clutch, it's a rear wheel bearing, etc, etc, etc. It's a two-seat sports car, not a luxury sedan. ;)

I'd switch to ester oil and see if that helps. If the noise went away, I'd stick with the ester oil. If the noise stayed the same, I'd go back to a cheaper high-quality oil and live with the noise. If the noise got worse, I'd shut down until I could get problem diagnosed. YMMV

I got 99 problems, but VVEL ticking aint one.

It’s not the normal noisy it used to be. Yea I understand it’s not a luxury car, i understand I’m going to hear rattles with my test pipes. I’m ok with that.

I appreciate the quick response
I mentioned the switch to ester oil in the first post, but it has only been 500 miles since the switch. Not the clutch, replaced the clutch, lightweight flywheel (who needs luxury when you got this beautiful noise at redlights ha) HD CSC, CMC, new transmission, redline fluid.
Not rear wheel bearing: noise can be heard not moving and just revving it.

Which bring me to my next point, I had my girlfriend hold the rpms steady while I hunt the noise down. Sounds like it’s coming from the number 4 cylinder, probably should have mentioned that earlier. It’s not the normal all over typical vvel noises.

It’s loud and strange enough to make me worried

Hopefully this video works

https://imgur.com/a/v30QcXr

I had a ticking noise about two weeks ago and determined that it was coming from under the car. I found out that my heatshield on the exhaust was loose so i just re-clamped it and the sound went away.

Don't sound good on the video. Have your oil pressure checked with a gauge. Pressure should be about 38lbs at idle about 90 lbs at 5,000. Being an '09. I'm thinking a valley gasket on the front of the motor has started to blow out. But what gets me, it only happens between 2200 and 4000 rev's.

I’ll check for that this weekend when I got time.

And for the oil pressure, I have one of those obd2 Bluetooth things and oil pressure isnt a sensor on our cars, so my only option is to get an oil pressure gauge and install it? If that gasket is blown I should be consuming oil at a noticeable rate right? I’ll check my oil today and keep an eye on the levels every day.

I appreciate y’all help on this.

You have to install a separate gauge to check pressure. If the valley gaskets are leaking by. You will not lose oil. The oil will just go back into the oil pan. The gaskets are under the front timing cover.

Here's the thread on it.

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post3735619

FYI. The engine oil pressure specs listed in the FSM at an engine oil temperature of 176 degrees F are approximately 14 psi at idle and 43 psi at 2,000 rpm.

I know what the FSM says. But this is what is real.
Cold start psi is around 100 psi. Once off of fast idle. The pressure drops to around 35~38 psi. The pressure will raise with rpm. It will get to 95 psi at around 5,000 rpm. This is why you can't install a 100 psi gauge. It will be pegged. Have to go with a 150 psi gauge.

My low pressure warning light is set to come on at 25psi on my gauge. The 14 psi in the FSM is just enough to turn off the factory warning light.

I should probably install one anyways especially since I’m trying to build this up and do track events, and I just recently installed an oil cooler. I’ll shoot for the next couple of weeks to get one installed.

I may be wrong, but IMHO, it sounds like valve noise. Like the old cars where the valves would float on the cam at certain RPMS. Since these are probably hydraulically driven, if the oil pressure is low, there is not enough pressure to keep the lifters on the cams.

I found this in my FSM for assistance in diagnosing where and what the noise may be caused by...

So I took a long wrench and poked the heat shields and the seemed solid, didn’t move. Kind of bummed really hoping that was it.

Would this cause loss in power or vibrations?

Both. :(

Well what’s weird is it’s got the same power still pulls hard all the way through the band even between 2-4K, the noise, (not pushing it like I used to but I had to see what would happen) and heck just switching to the redline after this noise started has made it smoother.

I think my next option is to find a decent oil pressure gauge.

Yeap, If I had to guess the oil galley gaskets would be the culprit.

My thinking on it. At 2,200 to 4,000 rpm. He should have about 50 ~ 60 psi. That maybe what is needed for the VVL and Varivalve timing to operate there. Not enough oil pressure and things get noisy. Once he goes past 4,000 rpm, oil pressure goes up, and things quite down. He may have enough oil pressure to operate everything above 4,000 rpm's. Might have just enough of a leak to cause an issue between 2,200 and 4,000 rpm's. If I'm right. He maybe be catching it before the real damage starts. Won't know until he mounts an oil pressure gauge.

Remember to get one that reads from 0 to 150 psi.

Will do just gotta figure out how I want to do this setup I don’t really want to end up with a bunch of gauges so I’m looking at a pressure and temp to swap in.

Eh just going to get a good standard oil pressure gauge.
Rusty I have seen some debate on mechanical vs electrical, which one do you recommend?

I can tell you from experience that a mechanical gauge can leak ... inside the car ... all over new carpet. An electrical gauge is usually easier to install (don't have to worry about kinked tubing), just as accurate, and won't leak.

^^^^^ This.

:iagree:

When you install the sensor. I would install it next to the factory sensor.

Here's a link to the same tee I used.

Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter, 1/8" BSPT - Engine - Autotech Motoring

Here's a link to the install.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...r-bsp-npt.html

I started a thread about oil pressure. :tup:

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post3781085

Awesome, I’m ordering one now so hopefully I have time this week to install if not it won’t be till next Saturday. I’ll update as soon as possible I’m ready to solve this.

4-5 week build time, didn’t notice it at first but I liked the price and the customization of the speedhut 0-150 gauge. So until then hopefully nothing gets worse and I’m going to do frequent oil changes. Unless I get the courage to open up the front cover.

Did you get the one with the warning light?

that sounds like there is something lose in the engine bay, hitting that engine.


i mean yeah it does sound like a valve, but i think something is loose, i listened for like 10min and ruled the valve out.

Is it louder by the valves or by the crank? I've had an oil galley go, it made it so the engine couldn't find idle without that oil pressure, so it would surge from 1000-1500 rpm in rythme. After Nissan fixed that, the car had a rhythmic noise like that coming from the bottom end all of the sudden, only on throttle. I thought it was an exhaust leak, turned out to be a spun thrust bearing. Engine seized a few months later.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Sounds like it’s coming from the top of the engine.

Update(ish) yes ordered the gauge with warning light. Still way out on production.
Ordered the galley gaskets so that’s this weekend project, while im doing that I’m going to see if anything is loose. So far everything seems solid

I would look for an exhaust leak and make 100% sure its all sealed, before I pulled the front cover off.

Just do a proper diagnosis, so you dont waste your time fixing the wrong thing.

Get a mechanics stethascope and locate the real source of the noise.

I looked for one last time, the noise is definitely from the top. Me and other people have all listened. Even took a screw driver and did the little listen trick with it and popular opinion is top of engine/valve train. Or we could all just suck at hearing the location.

I guess I should mention that I look it to my normal mechanic, had experience with mine and other Z’s, said it sounded like a lifter that he has fixed in another Z. But found it weird it was only making it after 2K

Pull the valve cover on that cylinder, and inspect the cam lobes and shim buckets.

Could have some damage. You could also check the bucket to lobe clearance.

Ok I’ll be getting started in a min I’ll update as I go along

check your oil pressure, your gallerys are blown out, youll have pieces of gasket floating in your oil pan. The top end isnt getting enough oil. my car was at 2-3 psi and it didnt set the warning light. i started the car one day, loud valve/top end noise, glaced at my oil pressure, 31 psi on cold start, i knew there was an issue.

That’s my plan unfortunately the oil gauge I ordered got set back too long for me to wait. I’m praying that I’m a get to the gallery’s and they are messed up. I hate that I’m praying there is an issue but this seems to be best case scenario. I am checking under the intake manifold real quick before I drain all the fluids And get to them.

Looked under the manifold saw nothing. After two days of heating up the crank bolt, going through two breaker bars, I still couldn’t break it loose, so now I guess it’s going to a shop unless I can find a torch to use.

I wouldnt bother with the intake, until you can see your gallery gaskets.

If those are ok, the proceed to remove intake and valve covers.

Crank bolt - i used a blue mini torch, heat her up for 15 mins, and i used a CP cordless impact, it came right off. breaker bar is going to be hard to break it free, youll need a impact if its really tight.