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I used a corded impact to no avail with a heat gun. I think my problem wasn’t enough heat but this guy from work let me borrow a SnapOn 1/2” breaker bar and we got it to break free finally. So gotta back it up for the night I can continue on it Wednesday. Wednesday I plan on getting to the gaskets and we will know from there
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Since you put heat on the damper bolt. You may want to change the front seal.
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And I have an update!!!! Obviously I’m not the fastest mechanic but I finally got the left cam cover off. and Found something, sorry I don’t know why the image came in sideways. |
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In the picture. Do I spy a piece of gasket hanging down in the back? |
Ok well I read that I had to replace the crank bolt too, so when I head to the only Nissan dealer here in Atlanta greater area that has one I’ll make sure that they have that to.
And I knew you were bashing haha. I also noticed that now might be a good time to throw in some solid motor mounts.... Is part number 13510-31U10 what I need? I’m already swimming in cam gaskets, o rings, and gallery gaskets so what’s one more?! And you are correct that brown piece hanging outside of it’s home is the gasket |
Yeap, Galley gasket has failed.
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Any pro tips on this oil pan? I can’t even get a razor blade to the glue
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All the bolts out? If so, put one back on each side. Just a couple of threads screwed in. When the pan pops loose. This keeps the pan in place and not making a mess of things.
I've used a wood chisel at the split line and tapped it in with a hammer. After cleaning up the split line. If there is any marks or gouges. I use a fine file to file down the raised area. Just be careful. |
I had all the screws removed originally, I can put a few screws in. The problem is I I have even but a razor blade on a handle and slightly tapped it in and It won’t even let the razor in. It’s so tight at the split line.
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This is what I’m working with
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Got it! :happydance:
And 125xxx miles, blown gasket, still no metal shavings at the bottom of the pan or the magnetic plug :tup: |
Great these bolts for the galley gaskets, the 4mm hex bolts, are starting to strip before I get them to 12ftlbs. I put loctite on them.
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You putting it back together again? How bad was the gaskets?
Yeah, sometimes those small bolts don't have enough head on them for a good bite. |
Yea finally, they were pretty much exploded on the sideways Y piece.
So my torque wrench can’t even torque down to 12 before they strip. It’s close but it won’t click before they give. I got loctite on them am I going to be ok? |
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Haha torque wrench is in ft lbs. I have a hex tool set with a 3/8 connection set I was using.
But yea I followed this http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ml#post3735619 #9 says 12 ft lbs and I dug up all bolt orders and tq specs in the fsm. |
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Doesn't someone make upgraded bolts that can be torqued properly? I am not sure who makes them, that's what is going on my car.
Do a search, it is on here somewhere. The bolts and gaskets are upgraded. |
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Pic from the DIY thread. |
So they are definitely more than hand right with loctite, I should be good right?
And these are the “upgraded bolts” from concept Z And looking at the DIY pictures it looks like they stripped on them as well. |
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If he says he can see it in the photo, I'm assuming he is referring to the bolt head and not the threads. I prefer using torx on all allen/hex bolts - they seem to round off far less often that way.
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Yea it was just the Allen head of the bolt. But I did have to order new bolts for oil pan(1) timing cover(1) and cam covers (17) because some of the threads spun. It’s weird I started inspecting the bolts and a lot of them were messed up even before I started putting everything back.
Timing cover and oil pan got rtv about a 4-5mm bead. Fsm said up to 4.4. I can’t seem to turn the crank bolt the 90 degrees after the 33ftlbs I got it about 45 degrees. |
And taking car of motor mounts with everything out of the way was by far the easiest part of all of this haha
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Sweet good to know. Since new bolts had to be ordered it’ll push this back till probably Tuesday. But it’ll give me time to install the speedhut oil pressure gauge. Any recommendations since you have the same one? I’m going to follow the diy you sent earlier. |
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It’s about 9’ long.
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There is an engine flush that’s supposed to help with a ticking noise that can occur with some of the z cars. The one I’ve seen good things about is called Xtreme clean engine flush. I thought it was only on the 300z’s but read somewhere that someone had the same issue with their 370z. The one occurrence with a 370 and multiple of the 300z’s were fixed by using the engine flush! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Sooo everything is back together and it still makes it.
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I meant to post the actual product before but got super busy! I haven’t tried it personally but the reviews look decent in terms of getting rid of the ticking. https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...sh-p-2476.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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Sounds like both but the driver seems to be the loudest.
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And thats why it pays to do a proper inspection, generally it saves time and cash.
Ask me how I know... |
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Speaking of which, what did you tap the white wire into? I know it’s the “light dimming” wire. |
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And to be honest my skills aren’t good enough to properly check lifter clearance. At least they aren’t right now they may have to get to that point. |
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