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Z Oil Change: Miles or Time?

Originally Posted by LinPark If one doesn't put many miles on a car in a year, is it safe to run synthetic oil based on mileage instead of months? Thanks!

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Old 04-01-2012, 07:24 PM   #31 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LinPark View Post
If one doesn't put many miles on a car in a year, is it safe to run synthetic oil based on mileage instead of months? Thanks!
Every other type of measurement is in engine hours. Boats, pumps, motors etc. are all measured with run time not storage time. Something to remember is if you keep your car stored in a tempature that stays the same and is a dry or dryer climate then you can stretch your time of oil changes. If it gets hot and cold cycled often you will have a little bit of moisture build up but you should start the car and let it get up to operating temp atleast every other week to ensure the seals don't dry rot on you and you don't get hard spots in the tires. That is my 2 cents worth.
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Old 04-01-2012, 08:51 PM   #32 (permalink)
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whichever comes first
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Old 04-03-2012, 04:28 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MattP725 View Post
IMO it isn't worth the battle with Nissan if someone happens to your car. $40-50 every three months isn't a huge setback for most people. Can you extend it to 4 or 5? Sure but if something happens to your engine there is a descent chance Nissan will want records of your oil changes to warranty and that might come up.
The "normal" maintenance schedule is 6 months/7500 miles.

If it's been 8 months and 2500 miles, I'd laugh in their stupid faces if they even tried to insinuate it was an issue.
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Old 04-03-2012, 06:35 PM   #34 (permalink)
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i have said it before, i think oil changes should be measured by RPMs not miles. I believe this is how Hondas oil metering works, the computer counts the engine revolutions and when it reaches a certain number the "change oil" reminder starts blinking. I saw a Honda truck go over 10k miles before the reminder turned on, and Honda stood behind it. They said change the oil only when the truck tells you to.

I change my oil (mobil 1) every six months but i only drive 10k miles a year. Last time i had it changed, the oil came out a nice gold color, and it was still transluscent.
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Old 04-04-2012, 10:44 AM   #35 (permalink)
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If you only drove 2k miles a year would you still change it every 6 months? Doesn't that also mean you should check the date on the oil when you buy it? What if its been sitting on the shelf for like 6 months?

Also, on the Honda item I'd be shocked if it uses RPM's - I'd bet it uses miles because my indicator drops to 15% at precisely 6k miles each time. I've been sending the oil into Blackstone Labs and have gotten to the point where I run the oil for almost 8,500 miles and it could go further (this is just basic Honda Oil) - so I have to believe that I could run Redline longer than that in a 370Z.

I suppose I could take a sample of the oil from the 370Z and send it in without changing the oil. I've had this car for 2 years now - I changed the oil once with Nissan Ester at 1,100 miles and switched to Redline at 3,100 miles on 3/5/2011 - the car now has 5,900 miles but I haven't changed the Redline oil yet. Seems kinda sad to spend that much on oil and only use like 35% of its life. Guess I'll send it in to Blackstone Labs and ask them how it looks. I'll report back what they tell me.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:51 PM   #36 (permalink)
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If you only drove 2k miles a year would you still change it every 6 months? Doesn't that also mean you should check the date on the oil when you buy it? What if its been sitting on the shelf for like 6 months?
Exactly!

The time recommendation is based on the idea that if you go less than 1,000 miles a month, you are probably doing lots of short trips and never warm the oil up.

I drive my car at least 30 minutes on the highway at 70+ MPH every time I drive it, it's not a problem.
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Old 04-04-2012, 12:55 PM   #37 (permalink)
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I never thought about checking date on oil bottles ...what's considered bad. I do oil changes twice a year (when I take it out and when I put it back in storage) but I buy oil once a year because bulk is cheaper.
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:34 PM   #38 (permalink)
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[QUOTE=LinPark;1639485]If you only drove 2k miles a year would you still change it every 6 months? Doesn't that also mean you should check the date on the oil when you buy it? What if its been sitting on the shelf for like 6 months?

It doesn't matter how long oil has sat on a shelf, being that it is vaccum sealed from factory it wont collect moisture. HOWEVER, when you open the oil and remove the seal and don't use all the oil (1/2qt) that is when moisture will build up.
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Old 04-04-2012, 02:52 PM   #39 (permalink)
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It doesn't matter how long oil has sat on a shelf, being that it is vaccum sealed from factory it wont collect moisture. HOWEVER, when you open the oil and remove the seal and don't use all the oil (1/2qt) that is when moisture will build up.
there is the issue...we need 5 and 1/8 qts which means you will always have remaining oil sitting if you do your own oil changes
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:41 PM   #40 (permalink)
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hmm, i do 5 solid and never use the "1/8" and it is always at the high mark dead center in the middle of the drilled hole. honestly the 1/8 doesn't matter.
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Old 04-04-2012, 03:44 PM   #41 (permalink)
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i did 5 qts and 1/8 and I also was dead center..hmmm interesting. I wonder if it has to do with the drain angles. Do you have just the front lifted. That could, I assume, leave some of the oil in the pan.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:13 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by LinPark View Post
I suppose I could take a sample of the oil from the 370Z and send it in without changing the oil. I've had this car for 2 years now - I changed the oil once with Nissan Ester at 1,100 miles and switched to Redline at 3,100 miles on 3/5/2011 - the car now has 5,900 miles but I haven't changed the Redline oil yet. Seems kinda sad to spend that much on oil and only use like 35% of its life. Guess I'll send it in to Blackstone Labs and ask them how it looks. I'll report back what they tell me.
Did you ever get the Blackstone results here?

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i did 5 qts and 1/8 and I also was dead center..hmmm interesting. I wonder if it has to do with the drain angles. Do you have just the front lifted. That could, I assume, leave some of the oil in the pan.
Good call, sir I was kind of hoping I could do it on two jack stands, but I will be using four thanks to your comment
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:17 AM   #43 (permalink)
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whichever comes first
This.

If you do not drive your car long distances, letting it fully warm up (20 minutes per trip) then your oil eventually becomes heavily contaminated with water. This water comes from the intake, straight out of the air it is sucking in.

This is the reason for the time limit in addition to a mileage recommendation. If you drive few miles, but always drive for say an hour at a time then you're fine to extend the time, but otherwise I would just change it on the time mark or the mileage mark.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:46 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Did you ever get the Blackstone results here?



Good call, sir I was kind of hoping I could do it on two jack stands, but I will be using four thanks to your comment
I don't think there is an issue with doing.it on two jackstands. I have dine it like That in the past and the amount left in there should be insignificant. The most complete.drain possible you will.probably need the car level. And while filling the most accurate measurement happens when its level as well.

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Old 05-12-2012, 11:50 AM   #45 (permalink)
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The most complete.drain possible you will.probably need the car level. And while filling the most accurate measurement happens when its level as well.
I'm definitely lazy, but I'm also slightly OCD. The Z is pretty major investment, so I'll take the extra time and do it right.
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