Having car issues

Tchristie24

Hello, other than my introduction this would be considered my first post on the forum. I thank the community first and foremost for the information I have obtained before and after purchasing my vehicle last year!

When given the green light last night I go to accelerate only to see the ABS light, VDC light, and check engine light on. I considered the car to be in “limp mode” due to the car limping through the light. Luckily I was half a mile from the house. I noticed the car kicked up in RPM and drive somewhat normal or at least better than it had been under the light. I began searching the forum for issues with just that in particular and got broad results.

I woke up and started the car to see the check engine light still on but drives with an idle at around 1k. I drive the car to O’REILLY to get a scan and got the codes:

P2135
P1705
C1109
C1130

I purchased the car with 42,900 miles and currently have 72,000 miles. I did need a jump a few weeks back after detailing the car with it in the ON position but considering it was cold outside I just chalked it up to that. I have a trusted mechanic that I will end up taking the car to in the next day or two. I want to refrain from going to the Nissan stealership. My main question is there something such as one bad part causing all these codes or is it common for all of the sensors to go out at once?

I do understand the search function but I cannot seem to find all of these codes in one area. Maybe finding the fix to these particular codes can help someone in the future.

1st

Hi, I did a quick search but per my understanding and please do correct me if I am wrong.

P2135 NISSAN Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Range/Performance
P1705 NISSAN Throttle Position Sensor
C1109 Nissan Power And Ground System
C1130 ?

RumbleFish

C1130..possible issues
Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Faulty ABS actuator and electric unit (control unit)
Control Area Network (CAN) communication line
Blown ECM fuses
https://www.engine-codes.com/c1130_nissan.html

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Tchristie24

A friend if mine had some issues with his Z and told me it could be the gas so I am buring this gas that I put in the other day first (cheap walmart gas) and putting in some chevron gas. It is the cheapest thing to do first I figure.

Tchristie24

Would a faulty ECM be covered by nissan?

SouthArk370Z

Going by the DTCs you posted, I'd first check wiring between TPSs and ECM, particularly any grounds and connectors. If the wiring is OK, then I'd look at the TPS output and see if they are in sych with the plate. Wiring diagrams, harness routing, etc are in the FSM. Most OBD/CAN tools will allow you to look at TPS outputs (or ECM input).

Oops. That's the throttle pedal, so there's only one, IIRC. FSM will have details.
Double-oops. It is the positions sensors on the TBs. Either way, I'd check wiring and then sensor(s).

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RumbleFish

Sorry, I do not know the answer. Check with a local dealer maybe?

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How far, this...Utopia?
F.I. CBE V2/Stillen G3 CAI/GTM 25R OC/EcuTek tune (Specialty Z)/ KW V3's/Stillen Sway bars/SPC rear camber kit/Z1 FUCA/Mich. PSS4S 255/35-295/30

Tchristie24

Thanks for the replies y’all! I flushed out the gas and ran some chevron gas through along with some gas treatment. The engine service light is still on but the car seems to be running with a lot more response. I am still hoping the car just detected bad gas and decided to give me a slap on the wrist and if that is the case I find it interesting that those codes were thrown. We shall see!

jchammond

If you have oem battery still in place (as you stated needed a jump), could have a cell going bad & is cheap insurance + you’ll be able to clean cable connections good.
A very good place to start.

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barncobob

new battery..cheap fix, cures alot of problems..

Tchristie24

My check engine light went away after a few tanks of good gas. I want to assume bad gas threw the codes. I know I will pay more attention to where I am getting gas from now on.

Fountainhead

Might want to give the engine a good looking over to make sure someone didn't do a "return to stock" before putting it on the market. I know that's a popular tactic and it does no one any favors in the long run, especially when "Chip Mods" are done.
Hasty assembly/disassembly especially multiple times can wear/weaken the electrical connector pins so worst case you may have an intermittent/dirty contact in some of the sensors.

*Disclosure - My car is modded with GTR start button, Reverse camera, and two VLED Amber running lights on the front bumper, so I am not immune to that bug.