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Using a Car lift on the 370z ( lift points)

Originally Posted by sx moneypit That is where i set the lift on mine. Okay sweet thank you

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Old 02-07-2018, 04:52 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sx moneypit View Post
That is where i set the lift on mine.
Okay sweet thank you
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:00 PM   #17 (permalink)
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I understand your question. I've used these points instead of pinch welds when servicing my car and never have issues. I've seen it used at the garage I've been using as well. The jackpoint thread showing the PW JDM image of the Z on the lift resembles the same point.
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Old 02-07-2018, 05:03 PM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by axmea? View Post
I understand your question. I've used these points instead of pinch welds when servicing my car and never have issues. I've seen it used at the garage I've been using as well. The jackpoint thread showing the PW JDM image of the Z on the lift resembles the same point.
Okay cool. And yes but that image shows him using a pad on his lift arm to contact the pinch weld in th front. I thought it was the spot i was reffering to at first as well
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Old 02-07-2018, 06:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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My car rocks on the oem jack points on my lift. If i pushed the rear end, removed the diff, pulled down on the front etc etc the car would fall flat on its face in a horrible crash.
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Old 02-07-2018, 07:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by synolimit View Post
My car rocks on the oem jack points on my lift. If i pushed the rear end, removed the diff, pulled down on the front etc etc the car would fall flat on its face in a horrible crash.
Dang that’s crazy. It’s always just a PITA for me to get the car on the lift using the oem jack points because the arms won’t retract far enough unless i line it up perfect. Even then I never really felt confident putting it there because the pinch welds arnt long enough and i can’t get the lift arm pad to contact the whole pinch weld. The 370z’s have such a short wheelbase
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:38 AM   #21 (permalink)
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My car rocks on the oem jack points on my lift. If i pushed the rear end, removed the diff, pulled down on the front etc etc the car would fall flat on its face in a horrible crash.
Well you did remove almost everything from the rear half of the car, even a good portion of the fuel tank. It's not too surprising the center of gravity is almost in front of the front pinch welds. What are your corner weights now?
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Old 02-08-2018, 04:03 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Thanks for the helpful replies everyone. Feel much more confident knowing others use this point as well.
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:47 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by 2011 Nismo#91 View Post
Well you did remove almost everything from the rear half of the car, even a good portion of the fuel tank. It's not too surprising the center of gravity is almost in front of the front pinch welds. What are your corner weights now?
I dont know, haven't weighed in a while. The roll cage added a good 100-200lbs back there though.
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:51 AM   #24 (permalink)
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Thanks for the helpful replies everyone. Feel much more confident knowing others use this point as well.
I took a 2x4 block though, cut out a line in the center and pushed that up against the pinch welds and thinned the block so its flush with the bottom of the car. Now when the jack pushes up its putting the weight on a 3.5x3.5" block under the body and the weld. No worries now.
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:54 AM   #25 (permalink)
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Old 02-11-2018, 07:55 AM   #26 (permalink)
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With a complete flat bottom i know my aim points the 4 square screws holding the flat panel to the block.
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Old 02-12-2018, 02:24 AM   #27 (permalink)
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That’s pretty smart syno. Never thought about doing it that way
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:55 AM   #28 (permalink)
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Does anyone keep a set of rubber pads to bring with the car when it's going to be put on a hydraulic lift -- to protect the pinch welds from damage? Just bought my first Z, and am anticipating wear and tear from the metal arms and/or sloppy positioning by mechanics. I see on Amazon both the slotted "hockey puck" type (more for rolling jacks) and also rectangular pads. Which would be best? I imagine impatient mechanics probably wouldn't want to fiddle with these to get them just right before lifting the car...
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:37 AM   #29 (permalink)
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I have always just used a square cut of 2x4. Works like a charm at keeping the pinch looking great.

I wonder if anyone produces pads that you can clamp onto the pinch before leaving your car somewhere? If it was already stuck on the car, it might help enforce technicians to use it.
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Old 02-15-2018, 12:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
I have always just used a square cut of 2x4. Works like a charm at keeping the pinch looking great.

I wonder if anyone produces pads that you can clamp onto the pinch before leaving your car somewhere? If it was already stuck on the car, it might help enforce technicians to use it.
That would be awesome especially for when sending the car to the shop. I have rubber pads on top of my lift arms/ jack but they arnt that thick. My pinch weld still looks good beside one spot on the right rear.
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