Free differential bushing removal tool.
 

I just got done replacing my differential bushings, Even though my car only has 300 miles on it, Im going to track the car so I dont need that headache later. Yes it is a major pain in the *** to remove, You will need 3ft long torque wrench and a 1 & 1/4 deep well socket. It states to remove the inner rubber first before you attempt the metal casing, I followed direction with success. I did end up locking the nut on the smaller rod, so that nut might need to be replaced.


So here is the plan, there is no need for all of us to buy the tool for 130 and use it once. If you need the tool and plan on using it in the next couple weeks I will mail it to you, ( you must cover shipping via paypal) after your done, you must ship it to the next person and make them pay for shipping as well.


Lets start a list of people that need it, just post your name and address below and people can private message each other there paypal details when the time comes.


https://www.z1motorsports.com/transm...l-p-11086.html




Only post your information if you need it soon, I dont want someone having it sit on there bench for 2 months while others could have used it.

Good job, Rep added.

:tiphat: Nice plan...

Now thats what car forum is all about helping other forum members!

Makes this forum alive again.


Kudos OP! I shall remember if I needed the tool.
Rep power added to your integrity!

Just remember the tool can only be used a few times, then the threaded rods and nuts need to be replaced. You don't want to be the one who strips the threaded rod in the middle of your repair.

Well, I need to borrow the tool!

Got my 3.69 built for my 7AT, so might as well replace the leaky bushing while the diff is out.

PM sent Cj..

I will need to borrow it soon plz.

The tools are here! but the car is still in the body shop. So, I decided to see if I could get the elephant ear bushings out of the diff that I plan to install when the car returns. I wailed on them with a hammer and socket with no success. Damn they are in there tight.

Decided to try and fashion something with the bushing removal tools from Cj.

First turn the diff upside down, mine was full of oil, so I plugged the vent.

1. I put the 1/2” acme threaded rod with nut and washer on the end, thru the size adapter and installed the adapter into the large housing (Pic 1).
2. Install the acme screw and housing through the steel sleeve in the bushing - from the bottom (Pic 1).
3. Install the big chrome 35 mm socket over the acme screw threads, as it protrudes out the top of the bushing steel sleeve (Pic 2).
4. Install the gold plate onto the top of the socket (Pic 2).
5. Install a washer and nut, on top of the gold plate (Pic 2).
6. Holding the bottom nut with a wrench, tighten the top nut.
7. When the assembly begins to become difficult to tighten, install another socket on top of the gold plate, and tap with hammer (Pic 3)
8. Tighten nuts and then tap in an alternating pattern until the bushing comes out (Pic 4)

Works like a champ! I bought the large chrome 35mm socket just for this job, so I will donate it to the kit.

I trashed the large rod first use. The rod kit from Z1 is $48, seems steep when i just need 1 rod and 2 nuts. Anyone know if that 3/4" APR rod can be source elsewhere or of a suitable substitute? Possibly even a larger rod?

I'd like to be next in line please! I have an appointment to replace the bushing the 2nd week of March.

Thank you this tool will really come in handy. Great job thumbs up!

You can pick up a standard length of 3/4” threaded rod at Home Depot or Lowe’s for $10-15.

I personally did the job with 1/2” rod, hardware and a piece of 4” channel steel.

@Sr20

Let me know when this needs to ship to you.

I am still waiting for the body shop to finish my car. I will ship it to you on time no matter what happens on my end.

SG

Mine must have been jammed in way harder than yours. There is no way a standard 3/4 allthread will work with as much force as i had to use, it would strip way before the bushing would move. The one that comes with the puller is hardened and has a non standard thread. I looked on the ARP website but i didn't see anything like it.

Thanks SG! If you can ship it out by March 3rd that should give it enough time to reach Houston by March 9th. If no on is really pressed for time I will mail it back to you.

You can get threaded rods from McMaster-Carr

Acme thread is the name i was looking for. A 3' stick will make 4 replacements for $15+ shipping.

https://www.discountsteel.com/items/...ts=&qty=1#skus

It's $10.10 for a 36" section under Acme Lead Screws and Nuts (53K psi tensile strength).

So, I paid freight from CJ to me, then I paid freight again to ship it to Sr20dehauler on 3/6 while my 370 was in the body shop.

Now my car is out of the body shop, and the rear diff is ready for install now on 3/18.

No response from Sr20dehauler since 3/10 appears he has gone off the reservation?

He mentioned that his mechanic advised against using the tool...

That’s cause his mechanic is a tool....sorry had to :)

Lol!

Sr20dehauler just PMd me said he would send it back.

Glad he is back!

I used a 3/4" drive socket that was almost the same diameter as the bushings, and a BFH to drive these bushings right out. Only took 5 minutes for both.

If you are looking for all thread. Go to Fastenal if you have one local. They normally carry a bunch of different sizes. I found 13mm thread diameter there.

If you are replacing a diff bushings that has not ruptured yet. Be careful. I replaced mine not long ago. I drilled into the bushings and got squirted with silicone fluid! :eek: The chit shot a good distance. About 3ft. Glad I was wearing glasses. :tup:

Sorry about the mishap. I went out of town for a week right after I received the tool so I didn't have time to ship it back. It is currently on it's way back to SG4247.

He said that the tool doesn't work very well to remove the outer collar for the models with steel subframes. The shop specializes in Zs and he's performed this job dozens of times so I assume he knows what he's talking about. *shurg*

Did this yesterday with a 400mm 1/2” breaker bar. Must be a hectic interference fit. Lots of fun on your back. But then again most fairladys are...:tup:

For one thing. The hole in the frame is not perfectly round. Where the welds come together is the problem area.

So, I used the tool from CJ and got it done! Wow that was tough!

Best to use a lift - and then you can use you body weight to pull down on the wrench to remove the bushing.

Took two of us big dudes, on the floor to pull the darn thing out. Takes a lot of torque.

I ordered a 3' stick of 1/2" Acme thread, and 4 new Acme nuts (Two 1/2" and two 3/4"). The all-thread is in pretty good shape, but nuts are trashed.

Once that stuff arrives, I will cut the all-thread down into 10" sticks, and the tool will be ready to go out to the next person. Should be late this week.

The hole is definitely not round.

I ended up taking the puller plate part of the bushing tool to the machine shop and turning .015" off of the O.D. Just a light clean up.

The thing would get 1/2" or so into the sub frame and stop. It would jam every time no matter what I did for alignment.

After machining, it went through the frame, and pulled the bushing out like butter!

If no one else is in line, I sure could use this! Have the bushings ready in my garage.

Give you guys another tip. When removing the inner guts from the bushing. Use a 2" hole saw first. It will cut about 3/4 the way through. Makes removing the inner guts easier when trying to pull it out.

So the kit is ready to go out to the next member.

(4) new 1/2” Acme threaded rods and two new nuts.

Important tip: clean all the threads and then apply high pressure grease or ARP bolt lube to all the threads before wrenching on it.

First $13.65 to my paypal @ sg4247@cox.net gets it. Be in a priority mail med flat rate box. Friends and family please or add 4%.

I can ship it Monday 4/23.

Thanks SG. Looking forward to the project - sort of ;)

On the way to JLarson!

Better pump some iron to get in shape for this!

Let me know if you have any problems, as I have a handle on this now.

ALSO, I DID SOME CALCULATIONS ON THE PINION ANGLE, I INSTALLED THE THICK BUSHING FLANGR ON THE TOP, THIS IS VERY CLOSE TO FACTORY PINION ANGLE. The Whiteline instructions show the thick flange bushing on on the bottom of the ears. This cannot be correct.

The instructions for the Z1 kit show thick bushing at the top...

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/945/4...84e8e8_z_d.jpg

The SPL bushings are the same thickness. So you can't screw up.

Thats good news! As the instructions that came with the Whiteline bushing kit I bought from Summit Racing, showed the thick bushing going on the bottom.

Glad I checked, otherwise Id be swaping them around.

Apparently, you may have diff noise if the elephant ear bushings are installed incorectly.

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ear-noise.html

Hey guys, anyone using the tool? I need it as soon as possible. I have my diff out already its just sitting in my garage.

I shipped it to JLarson...

Hopefully he is making progress!