.
 

I will need to use the tool in March 2020. I will be doing a field op for two month, but when I return, I plan on replacing my diff bushings.

Well who ever has it, hasn't messaged me. I guess they broke it?

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I have been repairing cars for many years - I'm a mechanic. I like my profession and I use a lot of tools every day, but the most useful of them is the torque wrench. I bought it after reading the reviews here https://torquewrenchguide.com/reviews/ and after listening to the reviews of my colleagues, I realized that I could not do without this tool.

:wtf:

:gtfo2:

I’ve done a ton of these bushing replacements. The Z1 tool definitely works for the aluminum subframe z/g’s as the outer shell plate pulled the bushing with very little effort. Now talking about the z/g’s with the steel subframe that’s another story-the outer shell plate doesn’t go through the subframe with the same ease at all- I was using a 3/4in extendable ez-red 4 foot ratchet, with the car on a lift, even that was a huge PITA-and it still took forever.
Ultimately I found that using the small center bushing remover first to get that portion out of the way, cleaning the fluid if there is any left so it doesn’t get in your face, Then using an air hammer with a chisel bit to push the bushing out. It takes literally 30 seconds, if you want to make a couple cuts through the outer shell with a saws-all, collapse it in a little then chisel it out that way works as well. But seriously F that removal tool for the steel subframes, again with the aluminum it works very well. Just my .02

Good to know about the aluminum sub-frame. :tup:

I can remove the bushing in about 20 minutes in the steel sub-frame. Putting a new one in takes me about 1 hour.

If your talking about installing the z1 bushing...put it in the freezer for a few hours, it will slip in with super easy with a couple taps of the mallet, when it’s hot it definitely takes some good beating to get it seated all the way.! You’ll love installing when the bushing is cold!:tup:

Is this sharing of the tool still going on?

Anybody still have one of these floating around I could borrow or purchase?

Did y'all drop the subframe? Can't get a good angle on the sawzall with where it's at to cut even all the way through although everyone else seems to have been okay.

Wouldn't hurt to heat up the subframe a little as well.

When I did mine I had the car on a lift. I removed the muffler, rear sway bar, V- shaped brace, disconnected the drive shaft from the diff and then dropped the differential to pound out the two front bushings with a 21 - 24 socket and a hammer.

The the subframe bushing I used a drill and drilled around the center sleeve. Then, I took the sawzall and inserted where I had been drilling. I started from there and made a B - line to the outer ring and cut through it. Finally, I took a pry bar and a hammer and hit it twice and it came right out.

My question is.

Can the Subframe bushing (once everything is out) be pushed out with center bushing intact using the air-hammer method?

What I vision is, as one user suggested, just hitting the lip of the outer portion and drive it all in one piece!

Since he had no need for a swazall split.

I can't imagine the rubber center would exert that much force on outer shell to prevent an air chisel from pushing it out. ( hammering at different locations circumstantially and equally)

Just a thought.

The issue would be getting the proper angle to use the chisel. That and the rubber center is attached really, really well.

This is where I'm starting to lean as well which is just grabbing a compressor and an air hammer. Hopefully haven't messed up the subframe too much but the collar is really rust welded in there. Hit it with some Liquid Wrench a second ago but I guess I'll follow with the torch.

I appreciate the replies.

https://imgur.com/a/hQDG22r some pretty poor pictures of the subframe bushing collar. Got it kinda mangled in the back at about the 3 oclock position but past that it won't budge. Do I just need to cut deeper? Kinda see where I've nicked the subframe already a bit.

Cut all the way through it. Then use the method I used and it will come right out.

Cut all the way through it. Then use the method I used and it will come right out.

Just thought I'd add my tip: after tightening the tool as much as it'll go, hit the back side circle plate with a hammer a bunch of times and that'll let you turn it a bit more. Repeat that until it comes out. You'll need a big punch to reach it though.

Is this tool still floating around possibly?


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You would be better using a hole cutter and a sawzall.

Here's the hole cutter.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-2...00CT/301697691

I’ve got the factory one out already just need to pop out a z1 bushing and put a new one in. Was just hoping for a tool to make it easier. Def will go in there with a mallet


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getpho said they sent the tool to AGNTWOO.

Freeze the bushing for a few days. You don't need the tool just use a piece of iron with am all thread rod and some nuts

Free differential bushing removal tool.
 

Ended up using a long bolt and some big washers to press new one in. Used a c clamp and oil filter wrench to pop the old one out. Worked like a charm


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Tell us more. Pictures of tools?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...c95298001c.jpg


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Not exactly sure what size this all is but I just went to lowes and found this all for less than 30 bucks. The most expensive piece was a piece of flat steel to put behind the bushing hole. The oil filter wrench worked to push the bushing out a couple inches to where I could grab it and wrestle it out by hand


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