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7AT stalls whenever I put in Drive or Reverse

Originally Posted by Tractionless As a 7AT owner I can't wait to hear the outcome. I full flushed per JCHammond's directions at 72k when I got the car. 10k later

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Old 03-24-2019, 11:15 PM   #1 (permalink)
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As a 7AT owner I can't wait to hear the outcome.

I full flushed per JCHammond's directions at 72k when I got the car. 10k later I dumped the pan and the fluid was still red so I simply refilled. I'll go in 15k later and see what it looks like on a pan dump next time. I have a Hayden trans. cooler sitting in holding pattern for when my front bumper cover comes off for headlight mods. I'm also working with an ECUtek tuner firming up shifts so as to save the friction plates. The car is only street driven but sometimes spiritedly.
Yeah still rolling in the loaner 2019 Sentra... basically you have to plan an 1/8th of a mile ahead if you want to be in a certain lane at a certain time, because there really is NO power. I mean, none. A prius is faster. It beats walking and it's strangely calming to drive, but made me realize one thing: 99.9% of the cars/vehicles on the road are boring and just "fit in" and now I'm one of them! I just don't see Nissan lasting much longer selling cars like the Sentra...

So apparently they had to order a transmission from NY and have it shipped here, "2-3 weeks" So I think it's been about 2 weeks, so perhaps I'll get the car back this coming week...

My latest theory:

1) Transmission fluid wasn't changed til 40k miles, and either that was simply too late and damage was done up until that point (and yes, I asked starting around 20k miles, and got the "it's a sealed transmission/100k miles speech), or
2) The wrong fluid/under/over fill occurred when it was done
3) Bad luck...

I think a Stillen Transmission cooler will be ordered once I get the car back and if everything seems fine. I'll only have 12months/12k mile warranty on the new transmission, then, I'm on my own with the thing.

In the big picture: If this doesn't work, or it breaks again, I'll just have a transmission built as that's still going to be cheaper than starting over with a newer car and going into debt (Short of a new job that pays more, then I'd keep it and get a lexus product as a daily/shoulda kept my sc300).

Is this the one to buy?

https://www.stillen.com/performance/...ooler-kit.html

(something tells me that the only reason it didn't come stock with the car was: a) cost savings b) risk/reliability with running additional lines c) Nissan doesn't adequately stress test vehicles before putting out into the market (the cvt lawsuits are a perfect example).
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Old 03-25-2019, 04:02 PM   #2 (permalink)
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https://www.stillen.com/performance/...ooler-kit.html

(something tells me that the only reason it didn't come stock with the car was: a) cost savings b) risk/reliability with running additional lines c) Nissan doesn't adequately stress test vehicles before putting out into the market (the cvt lawsuits are a perfect example).
Not sure I bought the Hayden unit Z1 sells on their site for $79 on ebay for $29 shipped. Says for vehicles 10k GVWR and under.

I believe the Z's have a trans cooler built into the radiator but it probably doesn't keep the fluid cool enough during spirited driving.
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Old 03-29-2019, 08:17 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Not sure I bought the Hayden unit Z1 sells on their site for $79 on ebay for $29 shipped. Says for vehicles 10k GVWR and under.

I believe the Z's have a trans cooler built into the radiator but it probably doesn't keep the fluid cool enough during spirited driving.
There is a trans cooler inside the radiator, and barely holds up to daily driving. That's why the recommendation to put an external cooler on (heat is the killer for ALL A/Ts, not just ours). I've had best luck with A/Ts when changing fluid & filter at 10k or annually, depending on how it's driven. Yeah, it's a pain in the tuckus, especially on the ones with no drain plug.

in short:
1) external trans cooler
2) regular fluid changes with a quality fluid
3) don't buy the dealer BS about 'sealed' transmissions... they don't exist.
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Old 03-30-2019, 04:09 PM   #4 (permalink)
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in short:
1) external trans cooler
2) regular fluid changes with a quality fluid
3) don't buy the dealer BS about 'sealed' transmissions... they don't exist.
It's amazing that I've seen SC'd Z's without any trans. mods including a cooler and the owner thinks all is well!! And as far as #3 goes my '13 F150 V6 company truck has a trans. whose 1st service doesn't come until 150k miles haha. So far six years and 120k on the original fluid. Glad I don't foot the fill on it!!
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Old 04-01-2019, 07:59 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Okay so received word that my car will likely / "may" be done in the next day or so.

***** HELP needed please *****

Should I buy this:

https://www.z1motorsports.com/coolin...37-p-4891.html

My thought process is that by eliminating the stock radiator at this point would reduce the chance of any contamination, and the unit "sounds" like it has additional cooling capacity compared to the stock setup, that would either directly or indirectly help with the AT temps, while being a simple plug n play stock replacement.

So would you people suggest I get that, and/or, the stillen external cooler here:

https://www.stillen.com/performance/...ssan-370z.html

Should I get one or the other or both?

It seems with the stillen external kit, there's some issue around the fitting sizes not being correct, thus requiring additional parts to make it work without the risk of leaks (the plan is to have the dealer install it so... yeah...), outlined here:

Stillen 7AT coolers installed?

I owe everyone on here a thank you for being helpful, def a better forum experience than others I've belonged to in the past!
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Old 04-02-2019, 08:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by markesc View Post
Okay so received word that my car will likely / "may" be done in the next day or so.

***** HELP needed please *****

Should I buy this:

https://www.z1motorsports.com/coolin...37-p-4891.html

My thought process is that by eliminating the stock radiator at this point would reduce the chance of any contamination, and the unit "sounds" like it has additional cooling capacity compared to the stock setup, that would either directly or indirectly help with the AT temps, while being a simple plug n play stock replacement.

So would you people suggest I get that, and/or, the stillen external cooler here:

https://www.stillen.com/performance/...ssan-370z.html

Should I get one or the other or both?

It seems with the stillen external kit, there's some issue around the fitting sizes not being correct, thus requiring additional parts to make it work without the risk of leaks (the plan is to have the dealer install it so... yeah...), outlined here:

Stillen 7AT coolers installed?

I owe everyone on here a thank you for being helpful, def a better forum experience than others I've belonged to in the past!
The dealer should flush the lines and the AT radiator before installing the new trans. Personally, I'd go with an external cooler, rather than replacing the entire radiator/condenser assembly. Replacing the radiator/condenser means evacuating and recharging the AC system, something else to suck up $$. I think the reason some people had a challenge with Stillen's trans cooler is that they didn't go far enough back on the hard lines before clamping the hoses. The coolers that I've installed have used a similar setup, but I cut the hard lines to remove the ends, double clamped the hose to hardline and never had a leak. I'm going to presume that the hard lines on our car threads into the radiator, so the other option is to find an adapter that threads on the connector to the hard line, then connects with the rest of the Stillen system.
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Old 04-02-2019, 08:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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The dealer should flush the lines and the AT radiator before installing the new trans. Personally, I'd go with an external cooler, rather than replacing the entire radiator/condenser assembly. Replacing the radiator/condenser means evacuating and recharging the AC system, something else to suck up $$. I think the reason some people had a challenge with Stillen's trans cooler is that they didn't go far enough back on the hard lines before clamping the hoses. The coolers that I've installed have used a similar setup, but I cut the hard lines to remove the ends, double clamped the hose to hardline and never had a leak. I'm going to presume that the hard lines on our car threads into the radiator, so the other option is to find an adapter that threads on the connector to the hard line, then connects with the rest of the Stillen system.
Thank you for the response! I'll get the Stillen and advise them of what you've stated above.
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