That's crazy!

Looks like the stomach contents of your motor after it ate it's self. :icon14:

What do the other bearings and rods look like? You need to get down to the root cause or you will have issues again.

I feel like a billet crank and a dry sump go hand in hand, and I wouldn't do one without the other. Both are so expensive individually... if the oil pump breaks and takes out a Bryant crank that is really depressing. If a stock crank breaks and goes through your Dailey Engineering pan and pump that is just as sad.

It would really be interesting to get oil pressure logging on a Z being used in track events with a factory style oil sump. It would just take one or two guys to log it for the rest of us all to use that data!!

That would be nice. I have the scope but never bought the pressure transducer for it as they are super expensive.

my oil plan for new motor is (remember this car is getting put back to DD duty for the most part):

Nismo steel gear oil pump.
acusump with oil pressure gauge(coming off pump) and warning light
Phunk's pan.

I'm considering dry sump but like I say this car is getting mostly pulled from track use. (I'm building a factory 5 coupe as my track beast) Dry sump is probably overkill for its new DD role.

Help please, I blew my motor and need to plan the rebuild
 

motor is out and heres the build plan.
short block
https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...ge-p-7254.html

oil pump
https://www.z1motorsports.com/engine...hr-p-7457.html

new oil cooler (in case shrapnel got up in there)
https://www.z1motorsports.com/cooler...er-p-5668.html

locally rebuilt OEM heads/top end

accusump

Phunk's oil pan

OEM harmonic damper unless I can find one of those drip stick compatible ATI ones.

z1 400 hp kit (dressing)

New JWT clutch (while its out)

(BTW If anyone was wondering, Nissan wanted $12k to drop in a new OEM motor)

Ps it's coming along.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6175d2d8b3.jpg

My votes gaskets. See them everyday on Facebook being posted. 350's can see oil pressure unlike us with oil temp. Screws back out and gasket blows.

If you want an accusump I have a brand new never used one plus all the fittings etc.

Ps you will need these

PMed

Where would I tap into? Add a spacer onto the oem one? I used electrical before and the sending unit died, scared the S$&@!!!!!!!!!!!!! Out of me see zero pressure haha.

I think the are coming with the short block from Z1

Hope they are not oem. You need those in the pic and the new allen screws vs phillips so they don't back out because they have more torque or a lockout washer or something included.

Pics that didnt work in PM

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6c6th9ax.jpg

http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/...psx47ak9q8.jpg

These gaskets are non oem. where did you find them??

I believe those are made by EPS tuning

EPS tuning

Here's the adapter for the oil pressure gauge. I just got one for my gauge set-up.

Oil Pressure Sensor Adapter, 1/8" BSPT - Engine - Autotech Motoring

Help please, I blew my motor and need to plan the rebuild
 

So far we have:

Nismo oil pump

Z1 stage 2 short block with head studs

Upgraded oil gallery gaskets

ATI harmonic balancer

Z1 flywheel and street clutch

New oil cooler core (in case of metal)

Recycled 400 hp kit (I'm going to take opportunity to ceramic coat the headers

Recycled phunk oil pan.

I'm considering new ignition wires.

Which wires? Do you mean new coilpacks?

Just the whole batch of plug wires /ignition wires. mine have 80k on them and I know they are 8 years old.

I have some high performance VHR spark plug wires I would let go for $500! :stirthepot:

:roflpuke2: Its coil-on-plug, no ignition wires on your Z!

Here's one of the gauges I have coming. Oil pressure gauge with a high and low led warning light that you can set. Also have a water temp and diff temp gauges coming too.

2-1/16" Oil Pressure Gauge 0-100psi (w/ warning). Auto Warning Light From Speedhut.)

Yup those are on order!!!! I wish I had them on a week ago then I might have shut down before I blew and I might not be getting razzed by phunk about my missing distributor cap

I just realized that.

Since I had the whole harness off I thought now is as good a time as any to freshen up my wiring. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...1f2f6e8570.jpg

Don't forget about your dual points and condenser.

Funny I have that exact oil gauge sitting on my shelf (for the Factory Five build)

So I have the verdict on what killed the motor.

It was...........

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...de50f13a6d.jpg

Yup Suspect #2. The oil gallery gasket causing loss of pressure on the aft bearing.

Also found a pending fail of the head gasket

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a4f8b6c08a.jpg

The OEM oil pump was still hanging tough.

So there we have have it.

You have a picture of where that oil gallery gasket is located on the motor?


Wonder how many motors this has taken out, and was blamed on something else.

That just sucks. At least you know.

It should be inside the front cover where the timing chains are.

It's under the front cover above the oil pump. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...85fc2e6a9c.jpg

Help please, I blew my motor and need to plan the rebuild
 

Knowing what I know now I'd probably recommend replacing the OEM oil gears with the Nismo steel ones and upgrading that gasket when replacing the timing chain at an early interval maybe 60k???

My timing chain was in good shape.

...and of course the distributer cap.

Don't forget the plug wires, points, condenser, and distributor rotor. Also don't forget to pull the vacuum line off the vacuum advance and plug it when you set the timing. :rofl2:


The younger guys probability don't know what we are talking about. :rofl2:

This motor is pretty cool. A lot of parts but very cool.

Lots of parts to make a big shrapnel grenade?

Head gasket leak and oil leak all at low miles. Must really have bad luck, if this were a vw/Audi I would say normal.

I'm curious how z1 etc is going about rebuilding these blocks with boring and honing aluminum walls. I haven't kept up on my engine building but they usually have a hard coating for wear and if rings leak etc the manufacturer just replaces the piston and rings but no re honing is done (at dealer level). Curious.

I hesitate to use the phrase, but that is good news because you now have a definitive cause and can build to avoid it.