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Originally Posted by phunk I was thinking about changing the basic baffle top to have some short vertical areas like shown. I have to settle on the top baffle in
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#1 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: DFW Texas
Posts: 149
Drives: '13 370z black 7AT
Rep Power: 14 ![]() |
Will the screws that hold the baffles in place be drilled for safety wire or will they be self locking? I won't trust Locktite given the high oil temps the Z will see.
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,669
Drives: 370
Rep Power: 974725 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I can include drilled bolts. I like the idea of them too... even though the bolts would never fit through the oil pump pickup, and there are countless other non-wired small bolts in the crankcase LOL
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#3 (permalink) |
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Base Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: DFW Texas
Posts: 149
Drives: '13 370z black 7AT
Rep Power: 14 ![]() |
P1010949.JPGP1010948.JPGIt is not likely that the baffles would be removed very often so locking fasteners would be good to do the job of safety wire in the instance. Here are pictures of a couple of flange locking bolts that are available.
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#4 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago
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I originally had the vertical walls further in-board, but I spaced them out to collect more of the oil returning from the rear of the engine without having to travel around the baffles
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#8 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,669
Drives: 370
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Thats quite low, lower than my personal taste for anything aluminum.
Spacer Pros: -Lower Cost -More Volume ~0.5q CJM Billet Pros: -Higher Ground Clearance -Machined-In surface area for improved heat dispersion -Active interior baffles -Bling Factor (roll-over in style) |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,669
Drives: 370
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Quote:
I am hoping to begin shipping some of these next week. Actually, anyone that is raw billet without the drain ports, I could ship as soon as the baffle tops arrive. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2014
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Quote:
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#13 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Chicago
Posts: 3,669
Drives: 370
Rep Power: 974725 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I ordered some pre-drilled screws to try out that will be here Monday. I wouldnt want to have to drill those little holes in those screws! They dont have the flange in them, my supplier doesnt carry any pre-drilled with flange or locking flange. I will supply the stainless wire for it also. For the screws I went with Black-Oxide alloy steel since its tensile strength (170,000psi) was more than double the prettier stainless variant (80,000psi).
They are 10-32 thread and 1/2" thread length. The prototype baffle top plate was .115" thick but for production I am going .060" to make it a little lighter. Well actually I told the laser cutter to play with it and if the .060" felt flimsy to just use the .115". The thicker plate is 9oz and far more sturdy than necessary, so I figured on going lighter and a few drops more oil capacity with thinner plate as long as its still sturdy... I left it up to him. He plans to cut the baffles tomorrow, so I might have them by tuesday or wednesday. |
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