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CJM Oil Pan

Originally Posted by phunk I was thinking about changing the basic baffle top to have some short vertical areas like shown. I have to settle on the top baffle in

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Old 07-17-2015, 06:16 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
I was thinking about changing the basic baffle top to have some short vertical areas like shown. I have to settle on the top baffle in the next day or two as the laser cutter will cut them in the next few days.
Will the screws that hold the baffles in place be drilled for safety wire or will they be self locking? I won't trust Locktite given the high oil temps the Z will see.
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jrb55gh View Post
Will the screws that hold the baffles in place be drilled for safety wire or will they be self locking? I won't trust Locktite given the high oil temps the Z will see.
I can include drilled bolts. I like the idea of them too... even though the bolts would never fit through the oil pump pickup, and there are countless other non-wired small bolts in the crankcase LOL
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Old 07-18-2015, 10:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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P1010949.JPGP1010948.JPGIt is not likely that the baffles would be removed very often so locking fasteners would be good to do the job of safety wire in the instance. Here are pictures of a couple of flange locking bolts that are available.
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Old 07-16-2015, 09:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I originally had the vertical walls further in-board, but I spaced them out to collect more of the oil returning from the rear of the engine without having to travel around the baffles
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:15 PM   #5 (permalink)
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i also happened to have a brand new z1 oil pan spacer in my room.. just measures it.. exactly 1 inch thick lol
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Looks like at or slightly below
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Old 07-16-2015, 11:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Just confirmed in the garage. Definitely at or below.
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Old 07-17-2015, 02:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just confirmed in the garage. Definitely at or below.
Thats quite low, lower than my personal taste for anything aluminum.

Spacer Pros:
-Lower Cost
-More Volume ~0.5q

CJM Billet Pros:
-Higher Ground Clearance
-Machined-In surface area for improved heat dispersion
-Active interior baffles
-Bling Factor (roll-over in style)
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Old 07-17-2015, 12:24 AM   #9 (permalink)
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What's your ETA on shipping? I may put a deposit on this with the fuel starve fix you PM'd me about.
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Old 07-17-2015, 02:30 PM   #10 (permalink)
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What's your ETA on shipping? I may put a deposit on this with the fuel starve fix you PM'd me about.
Pending arrival of the laser cut top baffle plates, I could have the un-anodized ones ready to ship within 24 hours of setting my mind to the small finishing operations.

I am hoping to begin shipping some of these next week. Actually, anyone that is raw billet without the drain ports, I could ship as soon as the baffle tops arrive.
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Old 07-17-2015, 03:55 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk View Post
Pending arrival of the laser cut top baffle plates, I could have the un-anodized ones ready to ship within 24 hours of setting my mind to the small finishing operations.

I am hoping to begin shipping some of these next week. Actually, anyone that is raw billet without the drain ports, I could ship as soon as the baffle tops arrive.
That figures, I have to do an oil change this weekend. Guess it will be next oil change when it get's installed. How long does the anodizing take, 1-2 weeks?
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Old 07-17-2015, 09:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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That figures, I have to do an oil change this weekend. Guess it will be next oil change when it get's installed. How long does the anodizing take, 1-2 weeks?
Usually about 2 weeks. They always quote 2-3 days, and then take 14-16 or so.
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Old 07-18-2015, 04:23 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I ordered some pre-drilled screws to try out that will be here Monday. I wouldnt want to have to drill those little holes in those screws! They dont have the flange in them, my supplier doesnt carry any pre-drilled with flange or locking flange. I will supply the stainless wire for it also. For the screws I went with Black-Oxide alloy steel since its tensile strength (170,000psi) was more than double the prettier stainless variant (80,000psi).

They are 10-32 thread and 1/2" thread length. The prototype baffle top plate was .115" thick but for production I am going .060" to make it a little lighter. Well actually I told the laser cutter to play with it and if the .060" felt flimsy to just use the .115". The thicker plate is 9oz and far more sturdy than necessary, so I figured on going lighter and a few drops more oil capacity with thinner plate as long as its still sturdy... I left it up to him.

He plans to cut the baffles tomorrow, so I might have them by tuesday or wednesday.
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Old 07-20-2015, 08:16 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Phunk can you drop me a line tomorrow?
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Old 07-20-2015, 09:36 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Phunk can you drop me a line tomorrow?
You got it!
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