Spark plug bolt from hell

NeverBoneStck · 03-05-2015, 01:50 AM

So I was changing out the spark plugs and unscrewing a bolt to access one and it snapped clear off.. Any suggestions on how to fix this?? Such a pain in the ***..

Blaine

IDZRVIT · 03-05-2015, 05:26 AM

Use a screw extractor tool. If you can drill a small hole in the centre of the sheared off bolt and increase the size of the hole by successive drilling to a size such that hole is now large enough for the extractor tool, it shouldn't be a problem. That is a small area to work with though and may not be that easy unless you can just drill out the stud and tap a new thread.

NeverBoneStck · 03-05-2015, 09:36 AM

Do I need to drill completely through the bolt before I use the tool?

JARblue · 03-05-2015, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NeverBoneStck

Do I need to drill completely through the bolt before I use the tool?

If you're using an extractor tool, then no. Just make a dimple in the broken end of the bit for the tip of the extractor tool to fit into. The bigger and deeper the hole, the better because that allows more hold on the bolt for extraction.

Drilling completely through the bolt is what he means by 'drilling out the stud'. If the extractor doesn't work (I found it to be a bit tricky when I first used one), you may need to drill out the bolt completely and tap a new thread.

Spooler · 03-05-2015, 07:00 PM

Be careful, if you goof up you will be buying a new valve cover.

lj909 · 03-05-2015, 07:42 PM

I had this happen on my 350. Couldn't get a nice center hole drilled so the extractor wouldn't work. Never got around to buying a new valve cover. I just shoved the coil pack in and it didn't ever move or pop out.

maizenblue · 03-05-2015, 07:53 PM

if it broke while you were removing it then its crossthreaded and may not come out too easily with an extractor. but hopefully this isnt the case, goodluck

NeverBoneStck · 03-05-2015, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maizenblue

if it broke while you were removing it then its crossthreaded and may not come out too easily with an extractor. but hopefully this isnt the case, goodluck

It is cross threaded. Going at it in a few. I left some penetrating oil on it for over 24 hrs hopefully this helps

Zipper 104 · 03-05-2015, 10:39 PM

Use a file to get the surface as flat as you can (if you have the space)) so you can get a centerpunch to mark a spot for the tip of the bit so it's less likely to wander. You don't want to drill a hole that will remove too much 'sidewall of your new hole, mess with the threads your bolt is in, nor drill right through. (you don't want the cuttings to go down where they might present a bigger issue than a snapped off bolt head) You'll need sidewall for the EO to grip. Pick up a small set of Easyouts and find one that you are able to get in a ways before it starts gripping the wall of the hole in your bolt. (you want it to grip tight before it bottoms in your hole) You'll get it tight with a slight tap of a hammer. You must need to leave sufficient 'sidewall' in the bolt for the EA to grip enough but not blow the remnants apart. You put a wrench on the end of the EO and turn it out. (they have a square top) They're slick. You might pre-treat the bolt with some Deep Creep or Loosenall or whatever first, and I suggest you use some cutting fluid when you drill the hole.
It may very well be cross threaded. If that's the case that'll give you the opportunity to work with Heli-Coils.
And make sure to get the sparkplug hole plugged before you start. You don't want crap to get down in the cylinder if it's so close you wanted it out to get to the SP.

What's this 'bolt' for?

L33T Z34 · 03-07-2015, 09:08 PM

Damn! Loox like sum idiot before u over torked/"stripped"/woot eva the sh!+ outa that coil bolt, or its just corrosion/galding. 62 INCH pounds! LoL! Did u buy ur Z used? Let the stealership change plugs? Or maybe this is one of those from the FAC fawk ups!
Anyway, sux that it sheared off...AntiSeize, AntiSeize, AntiSeize .... start bolts by hand...basic sh!+...

03-05-2015, 05:26 AM	#2 (permalink)
IDZRVIT A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Halifax Posts: 1,659 Drives: '13 CTS-V, '76 Vette Rep Power: 26	Use a screw extractor tool. If you can drill a small hole in the centre of the sheared off bolt and increase the size of the hole by successive drilling to a size such that hole is now large enough for the extractor tool, it shouldn't be a problem. That is a small area to work with though and may not be that easy unless you can just drill out the stud and tap a new thread. __________________ "America.... still builds rockets!" Vette: 355 cid, 400 rwhp '13 CTS-V Coupe: 6.2L LSA, 556HP Last edited by IDZRVIT; 03-05-2015 at 05:28 AM.

03-05-2015, 09:36 AM	#3 (permalink)
NeverBoneStck A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Beaverton, Or Posts: 1,110 Drives: 2008 G37 S Rep Power: 17	Do I need to drill completely through the bolt before I use the tool? __________________ Juiced! That is all you need to know !!

03-05-2015, 07:42 PM	#6 (permalink)
lj909 Track Member Join Date: May 2014 Location: Riverside Posts: 584 Drives: 40th 370Z Rep Power: 11	I had this happen on my 350. Couldn't get a nice center hole drilled so the extractor wouldn't work. Never got around to buying a new valve cover. I just shoved the coil pack in and it didn't ever move or pop out. __________________ PW 07 HR350Z R.I.P. Totaled by 82yr old woman 2010 40th Anniversary 370Z

03-05-2015, 10:39 PM	#9 (permalink)
Zipper 104 Enthusiast Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: Canada's Wet Coast Posts: 480 Drives: '13 PW/Frost/Spt/AT Rep Power: 10	EasyOut Use a file to get the surface as flat as you can (if you have the space)) so you can get a centerpunch to mark a spot for the tip of the bit so it's less likely to wander. You don't want to drill a hole that will remove too much 'sidewall of your new hole, mess with the threads your bolt is in, nor drill right through. (you don't want the cuttings to go down where they might present a bigger issue than a snapped off bolt head) You'll need sidewall for the EO to grip. Pick up a small set of Easyouts and find one that you are able to get in a ways before it starts gripping the wall of the hole in your bolt. (you want it to grip tight before it bottoms in your hole) You'll get it tight with a slight tap of a hammer. You must need to leave sufficient 'sidewall' in the bolt for the EA to grip enough but not blow the remnants apart. You put a wrench on the end of the EO and turn it out. (they have a square top) They're slick. You might pre-treat the bolt with some Deep Creep or Loosenall or whatever first, and I suggest you use some cutting fluid when you drill the hole. It may very well be cross threaded. If that's the case that'll give you the opportunity to work with Heli-Coils. And make sure to get the sparkplug hole plugged before you start. You don't want crap to get down in the cylinder if it's so close you wanted it out to get to the SP. What's this 'bolt' for?

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03-05-2015, 07:00 PM	#5 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 13,504 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684391	Be careful, if you goof up you will be buying a new valve cover.

03-05-2015, 07:53 PM	#7 (permalink)
maizenblue Enthusiast Member Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Denver Posts: 288 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 11	if it broke while you were removing it then its crossthreaded and may not come out too easily with an extractor. but hopefully this isnt the case, goodluck

03-07-2015, 09:08 PM	#10 (permalink)
L33T Z34 Banned Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Ahnald, MO Age: 46 Posts: 387 Drives: 09 K51 G C Bw/S 6MT Rep Power: 0	Damn! Loox like sum idiot before u over torked/"stripped"/woot eva the sh!+ outa that coil bolt, or its just corrosion/galding. 62 INCH pounds! LoL! Did u buy ur Z used? Let the stealership change plugs? Or maybe this is one of those from the FAC fawk ups! Anyway, sux that it sheared off...AntiSeize, AntiSeize, AntiSeize .... start bolts by hand...basic sh!+...