Gah, halfway through installing mine but have to jump on some client calls. So close!

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There still seems to be a tiny bit of linkage play in mine after install. Not sure at what point the clutch rod is considered to have start moving? (I.e. am I being to careful when trying to prove the play by locking down the top switch too early?)
Video of play in pedal is here:
https://youtu.be/tOrRsqC3-9w

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You can definitely tighten up the top switch position a little more as that appears to be a fair bit of play at the top. Press the pedal down lightly to take up the slack in the linkage pin, rotate the switch bracket down to touch the rubber bumper and lock the adjustment bolt down to hold it. There should be almost zero take-up before the linkage rod moves.

Next Batch and New Product Coming to RJM
 

Installed mine tonight, HUGE improvement. As many others have said, this is how the car should have been delivered.

The install was way more frustrating than I thought though. The limited space in the cabin left my ribs sore and my right elbow raw from it rubbing on the carpet sliding in and out.

I also noticed you may have missed a step in the directions - there is nothing that says I needed to reuse the 14mm nuts on the electrical switches but they were necessary to keep the switches in place when the RJM pedal was bolted in.

Agreed, HUGE difference in how it drives with this clutch! Thanks for developing this product!

Install wasn't bad, just frustrating at times when it would be helpful to have both hands in there but you can't fit both arms under the dash.

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Brancky, I'm happy to hear you're enjoying the new pedal and had a successful install. Unfortunately the tight space working under the dash is one thing I can't do anything about however I've eliminated as much work as possible with the new version as compared with the older units to reduce your time spent under there.
Did you happen to use a thick towel or blanket folded over the door sill to protect your ribs as suggested in the install guide? I know that makes a huge difference for me when installing these units for local customers.

As for missing a step in the guide I think you should reference steps #'s 20,30,31,34 & 35 which clearly instruct you (and with pictures/arrows) to install them onto the switches at the correct positions and use your 14mm wrench to tighten them;)

Yep, I saw step 20 say to use the new nuts, but at step 31 I was thinking 'what smaller nut?' until I realized I was the one I removed in 20. It's no big deal and super obvious once you realize what needs to be done, but I thought I was missing parts for a few seconds.

I did not use a ton of padding on the door sill, just a few MF towels. I'd recommend all future installers to use more :rofl2:

Brancky, thanks for the feedback. I just made a tweak to the guide to say "OEM switch nut" instead of saying the smaller nuts like before to hopefully avoid any confusion in future installs.

Thank you to everyone who's placed new orders last night /today. I'm now down to just 19 units remaining up for grabs out of the next batch of units scheduled to arrive late next week. Keep the orders coming guys:tup::driving::tiphat:

Quick question... I just contacted RJM via the website but thought I'd put this here in case others have input. I can't seem to adjust my clutch rod for lower engagement, there are no threads on the rod like I see in the install guide. Are there any other options to change it?

Hi Brandon,

Sorry for the late reply, was out all day with the wife/kids and just got home. For some reason your master cylinder rod does look rather short of threads, was it replaced at some point? The alternate method you can use to lower the initial bite point is to increase the AFP setting. Loosen the two bolts on the AFP slider with a 3/16 Allan wrench and slide the plate up half a tooth so its between the 75% mark and 100% mark. That'll increase the AFP affect and also make the engagement range drop lower. Retighten both bolts firmly and then you'll need to do a reset of the upper switch gap as increasing the AFP will alter where the pedal arm stops causing the switch gap to tighten.

Also another trick you can do to squeeze a little more from the clutch rod is to loosen the lock nut and turn it all the way back as far as it'll go on the rod. Then use some pliers that can grip the raised pattern on the rod to thread the rod tight into the clevis. Finish by using your 12mm wrench to make sure the lock nut is tight. That'll get every bit you can out of your clutch rod adjustment.

Hopefully that helps and if not I've got another trick up my sleeve but it'll be a little more involved then the options I've given you already.

Best Regards,
Ryan Morgan
RJM Performance Inc.

So uh, this should be cool with my stock everything right? Stock CSC and clutch? From what I have read it seems like it will, I just don't have money for all that stuff right now and this clutch pedal will hopefully help my stock CSC last till I can afford a better one, while also making it way funner to drive haha. I'm always paranoid about it going out on me after reading how soon they go out on everyone. Anyway gonna have this installed in the morning and I'm so excited I def can't wait to feel the difference


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Absolutely no worries running the RJM pedal with all stock clutch system and it will help extend the life of your factory csc. In fact it's becoming a very popular first upgrade as I'm seeing a lot of stock 15' & 16' 370Z owners buying them lately.

Best regards,
Ryan@RJM