theBroodwich Thank you, order received, fabricated and shipping out tomorrow morning for you:tup:
Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM

I might have missed it, but on your site it says that this pedal system can reduce or eliminate csc failure. How does it go about doing this?

batboyvaj, I'm sure it's been covered a few times in the past 18 pages but it's good to bring it back to the top of the conversation again. Bear with me as I try to summarize in semi-point form why the RJM pedal is good for your CSC:tup:

My take on all the thousands of CSC failures out there is to do with Nissan's silly high engagement with the factory pedal assembly pushing the CSC piston right to the max extension on every pedal stroke which stresses the seals.

This leads to terrible pedal feel with both the engagement so high and the friction point so high off the floor.

Next all of that wasted travel at the bottom of the stroke before the clutch starts to engage is excess travel, wasted movement of the piston and work that you, the MC and the CSC didn't need to do. All this extra travel scrubs the CSC seals back/forth much further for every shift then they need to and accelerates the seal wear.

Finally I believe the above has been the recipe for disaster for many owners due to the following uncontrollable factor - Sudden Heat Expansion of the clutch fluid during spirited driving. If during a run thru the gears you dump a lot of heat into the clutch which heats the CSC fluid causing rapid expansion of the clutch fluid in the lines... exhaust temps spiking in the cats near the bellhousing and clutch line have a great affect too...

So now you've got hot expanding fluid in the lines that's trying to bleed back into the reservoir, a factory master cylinder that's set to max out the CSC piston right to the end of its stoke, you bang the clutch down for that next shift AND ........ POP! goes the CSC seals.

The temporary condition of having rapidly expanding fluid in the lines that doesn't get bled off fast enough to the reservoir, coupled with the next complete master cylinder stroke is too much for the seals to handle causing the piston to max out in the bore and all that excess fluid pressure needs to go somewhere so it blows out the seals and sprays fluid all into your clutch area.

Kind of like one of those shows on Discovery channel where minute by minute the right combination of factors and unfortunate timing leads to disaster... you may go years without having the magical set of circumstances that lead to instant CSC death or you may only go a few weeks. Without remedy it's bound to happen sooner or later in every cars life. Either from an instant death or a slow death from all that excess stroke over many miles wearing down the seals faster.

Ever wonder why your clutch fluid turns all black and nasty over time? That is excess heat cooking the fluid and CSC piston seal material wearing off and entering suspension in the fluid.

So all that said here is the important take away point: The RJM pedal safely and effectively reduces master cylinder stroke volume and lowers the engagement point taking away that excess CSC stroke that leads to failures.
This reduction of MC & CSC stroke when installing an RJM pedal is why the stress on the factory CSC is greatly reduced to where the CSC is no longer in danger of maxing out and popping the seals with every stroke and there's less overall seal wear for a longer overall service life.

I hope in a round about way my theory why the Nissan, Ford, Chevy, Dodge and every other manufacturer I know of who's gone to CSC's has had issues with popping them. Go drive a new Mustang or Camero, their hydraulic clutches are miles high too and owners in those camps are having huge CSC failure rates as well.

Best Regards,
Ryan@RJM:tiphat:

Finally got around to installing mine this weekend. No issues with the install, but I'm pretty sore this morning :) I'm still dialing it in and getting used to the new feel, but I instantaneously noticed the benefits while starting in first, especially on steep hills. Commute to work today was way less stressful.

And thanks to Ryan for providing feedback and support even on a Sunday. I had a question regarding final adjustments and got a response back within the hour. That was awesome!

140BPM, You're very welcome:tup: I'm glad to hear you're enjoying the new pedal and the final adjustments are going well.

Weekend Flash Sale - the370Z Members Only!!!
 

:tup: :driving:

Yes! I saw this sale the other day but thought I was too late. Down to 3 spots now!

lj909 Thank you, Order Received. You've got mail:tup:

Just 3 Left Available at the sale price tonight.

Quick question - is the stock clutch pedal height equal/level to the brake pedal or is it a little higher like in most cars? I forgot to take note before installing my AFP. And by pedal height I mean distance from the bottom of firewall, not vertical height.

I understood the directions to use the available adjustment points to get the clutch as close to level with the brake pedal as possible, which is how I have mine set currently. It seems like it takes extra effort now to fully extend to engage the bottom switch in order to start my Z up. Seems like it would be a bit more comfortable with the lower pedal arm adjusted to be a little higher than the brake. How is everyone else setting pedal height?

Other than the height question, all is good here. Took nearly 4 weeks of tinkering but I finally found my perfect setting. Oh, and do take special note of the top switch adjustment. I had mine set about 1/8" too far in (against the rubber stopper) at one point and it caused some serious pedal wandering and fluctuating fluid levels in the res. A quick email exchange with Ryan helped pinpoint the issue in no time. Solid ever since! Highly recommended.

The factory clutch pedal height in the 370Z/G37's as about a full inch higher then the brake pedal in factory trim so leveling it off with the brake during the RJM pedal install is already quite a drop. If you just want to move the pedal pad up shifting the entire pedal travel closer to you then loosen the 3-bolt connection between the upper/lower arm to rotate it upwards more and simply tighten the 3bolts back down again after.
If you want less overall stroke length then you can also loosen the clutch rod nut and thread the rod deeper into the clevis which will shorten up the stroke a little more but will also reduce the friction point height off the floor when taking off.

Hope that helps:driving:

Running Low on Stock - Just 7 Units Remaining
 

Just finished install, took about 2 hours at a very casual pace. Great instructions and the only difficulty is the tight working space but that is unavoidable. Dialed in the adjustments and took it out for a spin, immediately noticed how much easier and smoother launches were. Still getting used to clutch engagement with more spirited driving but this is an amazing product, must have for every Z owner!

Can I still get the $225 with free shipping ? If so I will order today?
Thanks

1flaguy, Unfortunately the Flash sale has ended as it was limited to the first 5 members here who PM'd me last weekend but they are still $15 off the regular price as the current webstore deal for everyone right now.

To answer your install question its really just a nuts and bolts type operation with the only difficult part being you have to work under the dash. Otherwise I've had many guys tell me before installing they were newb's at modding or even attempting this as their very first mod and they've all had great success following my step by step install guide with photos.
If you browse thru the 18 some pages of this thread there are lots of really positive posts regarding the install and the quality of the guide.

If you'd like to grab one I've currently got just 5 units remaining in stock tonight. Then once these are gone new stock is about 3 weeks away right now.

Best Regards,
Ryan Morgan
RJM Performance Inc.