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DIY: Interior LED Color Change

good job, thanks for the posts

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Old 02-10-2011, 12:18 AM   #61 (permalink)
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good job, thanks for the posts
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Old 02-13-2011, 04:25 AM   #62 (permalink)
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Awesome job, great write up! I'll probably do the same with my buddy's Z34 if he would be interested in doing so.
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Old 02-14-2011, 11:58 PM   #63 (permalink)
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I remember you had done the trunk light mod; do you still have it lying around someplace? I'm getting tired of my dim little incandescent in there.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:22 AM   #64 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370Z Purist View Post
I remember you had done the trunk light mod; do you still have it lying around someplace? I'm getting tired of my dim little incandescent in there.
Mine was improvised, so it wasn't worth writing a DIY. However, you can still make your own using the following:
Endor Rebel Star (single LED) or Tri-Star (triple LED)
350mA BuckToot LED Driver
Small heatsink
Soldering iron
(Optional) Empty 194 LED wedge

Mine uses a single LED, so it is plenty bright.
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Old 02-20-2011, 05:50 PM   #65 (permalink)
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Hello DIGItonium,
I really liked your idea and your detailed DIY post(s) regarding the Interior LED Color Change, it was very helpful. I did something similar and figured I would share. My notes are not as detailed as yours and hope it is enough to assist if others are thinking about it.

I found some LEDS in Red & Blue at local electronics place (FRY's Electronics). For now i only did the speedometer and tachometer and am debating to tackle the rest. They are made by Linrose, Linrose Electronics Inc.. Each strip cost about $20 bucks and they come with 26 LEDS with SMT current limiting resistors, no extra stuff required. The led flex strip comes with adhesive tape on the back so you can just apply to the inner space underneath the gauges and tie to 12V (key on). You can add a potentiometer as a dimmer or tie into factory dimmer. All factory LEDS left in place, just added the new ones. Soldered on some wires to the strips and ran to the fuse box to a 10A "ignition on" circuit lower left driver side. I made note of where the instrument needles were "at rest" so they are not out of calibration when I returned them. I used a fork to pry them off with a microfiber cloth to avoid touching the overlay. As long as you go slow they will come off, they are on tight and the secret is to apply pressure evenly when removing them (go straight up) and watch that you don't bend the needle side ways when lifting up on them. Try not to touch the inside of the clear plastic covers either. If you do then clean them and look at them from all angles to ensure the cleaner did not leave any haze. Total cost was 40 dollars and install took about 2.75 hours. The only thing I noticed when I was done was that the passenger airbag warning light was blinking and the center console was indicating it had been turned off. This was a result of disconnecting the instrument cluster. To resolve this I had to reset the computer by following a procedure another forum member posted. Search for key phrase "reset airbag" and you will find the post. Resetting the warring indicator is very easy to do, 20 second procedure. Removing the battery cable does not reset it.





Regards,
370Z1
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 1_parts laid out.jpg (47.7 KB, 130 views)
File Type: jpg 2_leds for instrument cluster.jpg (87.1 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg 3_cluster on desk.jpg (33.2 KB, 287 views)
File Type: jpg 4_partial assemble.jpg (41.2 KB, 395 views)
File Type: jpg mid day.jpg (80.6 KB, 417 views)
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Old 02-21-2011, 12:00 AM   #66 (permalink)
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Impressive, most impressive.
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Old 02-22-2011, 10:33 PM   #67 (permalink)
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Added some pics of a single SMT red LED i added next to the stock orange ambient interior led. I just tied the led to the existing +12 & GND with a potentiometer which acts as a dimmer. It illuminates the center console area and can be turned off if needed. I picked up some plastic snap plugs at NAPA auto parts then drilled a hole in the center. This is the rubber piece covering the hole in the center.
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Old 03-08-2011, 01:12 PM   #68 (permalink)
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Hey what size PLCC LED's are you using? I could pull it apart and measure one but I'd rather wait till I have all the lights in hand.
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Old 03-09-2011, 08:33 AM   #69 (permalink)
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Hey what size PLCC LED's are you using? I could pull it apart and measure one but I'd rather wait till I have all the lights in hand.
IIRC, PLCC2 2.8x3.2 mm. Most are 4 terminals, but you can mask off the pads and offset the LED mount as shown in my DIY.
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Old 03-10-2011, 09:57 AM   #70 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIGItonium View Post
IIRC, PLCC2 2.8x3.2 mm. Most are 4 terminals, but you can mask off the pads and offset the LED mount as shown in my DIY.
Thanks for the response, I kinda figured those were the ones so I went ahead and ordered them anyway. I really appreciate the response. Your post is great. I've done this on 2 other cars before but its nice when someone else has already done the leg work and made it easy for the rest of us.
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Old 03-12-2011, 08:48 AM   #71 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtorseydunn View Post
Thanks for the response, I kinda figured those were the ones so I went ahead and ordered them anyway.
No problem! I'm glad you are able to work on them. There are a few indicators that will require 0603 or 0805 SMT LEDs like the key fob slot and S-Mode switch.
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Old 03-16-2011, 06:33 PM   #72 (permalink)
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Default Fuel/Temp Gauge Face Modification

This is probably the most economical solution to modifying the fuel/temp gauge face.

The gauge face is painted clear plastic, so paint thinner is used to strip the paint from the plastic. The new overlay can be custom designed to order from Black Cat Custom. The back of the overlay has a 3M adhesive.

1. Follow the DIY procedure below to remove and disassemble the combination meter.
DIY: Interior LED Color Change

2. Mask the display window to prevent it from getting scratched and keep paint from away from it.


3. Use paint thinner to remove the amber markings. I messed up this process since I tried to use a dremel to strip the paint, and it melted the plastic. I had to use epoxy to fill it back up and sand it smooth.


4. Mask areas that does not need to be painted. The overlay will reveal some of the silver paint, so it is best to paint the display area first. Optionally, you can apply the overlay, mask it, and then paint it to prevent light leakage.


5. Here is a test of the overlay and masking tape removed.


6. Here is the finished product.


Installed Pictures:

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File Type: jpg 002.JPG (185.8 KB, 2264 views)
File Type: jpg 003.JPG (216.7 KB, 2496 views)
File Type: jpg 004.JPG (151.0 KB, 69 views)
File Type: jpg 005.JPG (131.5 KB, 2257 views)
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Old 03-20-2011, 11:30 PM   #73 (permalink)
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Old 03-21-2011, 01:13 PM   #74 (permalink)
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+1 rep!
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Old 04-13-2011, 01:03 AM   #75 (permalink)
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Updated Fuel/Temp post with installed pictures!
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