Steering Lock entry and immobiliser delete (no photos)

fritz

Zero wrote
Thanks, Fritz. The switches are normally close. If you removed the switches off the circuit board, they would be normally open. this would pass-by the switches as if the switches were pressed all the time. I saw one guy was doing it and the car started without any problem.

That seems, in effect, to be unplugging the board (or the whole lock) which on my car it is a definite nogo.

The idea's of great interest ! But I think the guy you saw had something else up his sleeve : I'd love to be proved wrong.

When the steering is locked the switches are "released", yes, but
when "released" the "tit" terminal is connected to the outer "hole" terminal on each switch.

When the steering is unlocked the "tit" is pressed so its terminal is connected to the center terminal of the switch.

It is that contact: the slide of the contact which appears to cause the arcing and consequent problems. MMMThe resultant silica prevents "tit" terminal from connecting to the centre....which is the same effect as removing the switchMMM.

Un-soldering each switch is a good idea (if there's no gummt inspection) but then the centre terminal of each switch would have to be connected to the "tit" terminal----a quick, (almost invisible ?) wave of a soldering gun!

Best to buy a switch for disection to understand.
or disect your own. Always there's the faint hope that the center terminals are more b/s to fool us (me).

Switch Disection: The blue plastic covering is about a quarter milimeter (a few "thou") thick. The rest of the switch body is hard black plastic.
Slice off the blue at the "tit" end of the switch and check out the innards.

Doing anything other than what I wrote is a risk to BDM/ECUs or other electronics unless you're a really hi-tech tech (who'd be very, very, welcome!)

Please do give an up-date.

Fritz



hard plastic