DIY: Sway bar installation (front)
 

This DIY describes replacing the front sway bar (stabilizer bar).
For the rear sway bar see here.

Tools required:
Jack stands
10mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
Torque wrench


http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...5-img-7566.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...4-img-7567.jpg



Jack front of car and support securely with jack stands. It is not necessary to remove the wheels but you do get better access.


Remove undertray bolts using a 10mm socket (with optional electric driver). Remove plastic clips by popping center out with small flat screwdriver or finger nails.
http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...0-img-7555.jpg



Locate the end of the sway bar and loosen the end links with a 17mm socket or wrench. Leave loosely attached for now.
http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...6-img-7559.jpg



Remove the sway bar clamps with a 14mm socket.
http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...7-img-7558.jpg



Let the sway bar swing down. Disconnect the end links and remove the bar.
http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...0-img-7571.jpg



Preparing new bar by greasing the bushings.
http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...3-img-7568.jpg



Slide rubber bushing over bar and then add the clamp.
http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...2-img-7569.jpg



Installation is a reversal of the removal procedure.
- Attach end-links loosely
- Swing bar up and mount clamps to body
- Tighten clamps to 38 ft/lbs
- Tighten end-links to 62 ft/lbs (hold link with 17mm open wrench)
http://www.the370z.com/members/chris...9-img-7572.jpg
- Reattach under tray with 10mm socket

nice DIY, have any pics to illustrate this better??

You don't see pics? Oops. The pics are there for me, I'll see if I can fix.

Edit: should be fixed now.

fixed.........i see them now......nice job


how does the ride feel now?? more stable at taking corners??

have you tried a hard turn with it on??

The stiffer sway bars make a HUGE difference. I strongly recommend to all to enjoy anything from nice back roads to track time.

Any chance you got the weight of the new versus old? Are you planning to replace the one in the rear?

It feels a lot flatter in the corners. There is a down side however, it is now harder to load a corner of the car which may result in some unexpected turn in understeer. I'll be putting it to the test tomorrow with an auto-cross session.

thanks for the pic, i wasn't sure where to put the jacks exactly

I didn't measure them, but the new one is significantly heavier by probably 50%. I would guess that the old front was about 15 pounds, and the new front is around 23.

Rear install is complete, guide coming up.

Thank you Chris. Hotchkis?

Yes, these are the Hotchkis.

Got to test them out today at the auto-cross so I can give you guys some feedback.

The car feels a lot flatter in the corners but now has a little more turn-in understeer. Honestly I think the front bar is a little too large, something inbetween this and the stock is probably what we really want, at least for auto-cross style driving. At the track I think the bar setup might be okay as you usually don't have to aggressively transfer weight to the front corner. The car did feel more settled in higher speed slaloms. They really need to come out with a front bar designed for the Z rather than just assuming that the G37 will work good enough.

Alright, thanks for the feedback, hopefully they'll come out with a specific one soon! Anyone knows if the Stillen one is different from their G37 one? Their PDF instructions still say G35 on them.

Nice DIY. I suggest you guys wait on Hotchkis to develop better sways or buy another brand who doesn't have that stopper welded on the bar. That weld joint creates a high stress concentration and possibly small cracks which could fail due to creep, which was exactly what happened to my last pair of Hotchkis.

Nice DIY again, just did mine. Only discrepancy: I don't think both sides of the end-link are 17mm, at least they weren't on my car. The nut you remove is 17, but the rear part you hold with an open wrench is larger, probably 19mm. I only had up to 18mm in open wrenches (at least that I could find), which also didn't fit over it, so I just opted for an adjustable wrench.

how much did you pay for the set? if you don't mind. they look great btw.

You may be right. I was using a Metrinch, those have a little more leeway than a regular wrench.

I installed the Hotchkis adjustable front and rear on my 03 350Z. Likewise, made a huge difference at higher speeds.

I'm surprised this sway isn't adjustable. looking at the thread for the rear install, apparently the rear sway is adjustable.

Anyone know if the front needs to be jacked up to allow for maximum suspension travel for removal, or is it just to get under the car and I can just use my ramps?

NM - Hotchkis' videos has the car on a drive up lift so i'm gonna try the ramps.

To do the front you can use ramps, although it is a little easier to connect the end-links if the suspension is unloaded.

does it matter which side is up or down?? from your last picture, the hotchkis logo is upside down.

No it doesn't matter. Those detailed oriented will want the logo the right way up however :)

thanks for the awesome diy for both the front and rear swaybar installation. the front was a piece of cake but the rear :confused: cause of my hks.

i did the installation with ramps, front and back with no problems.

Thanks for the DIY write up. Really ready to do.
Removing the screws on the undershroud took longer then replacing three sway bar.
Did mine on my Race Ramps.
The larger bolt on the tie rod is a 19mm.

Only issue is I can't remember how my Z felt stock, since I have only driven it 1100 miles so far. I have the Stillen sways both set to the softest settings. My Z seems to have more body roll?

For the Stillen the softest setting is supposed to be 20% stiffer than stock (front) and 37% rear.

Interesting, i go with H&R springs and spacers (2.5front 1.5rear) it increased oversteer (noticeble) It seems with these sway bars would be perfect (LOL)

http://www.planeta619.by//images/New...1/DSC_6582.JPG

thank one more time

What size wrench are people using for the 17mm bolts? I've been trying with a 3/8 and a 19mm wrench on the other side and I can't get these to budge. Suspension is unloaded as the car is on jack stands

If they are stuck try a 17mm 6-point socket on the outer nut.

Great write up. Installed a set of Hotchkis sways this morning with no issues. Thanks for the help!

i did my whiteline (front only) looking at chris's DIY. :) reps given.

btw, i just used my combi wrench to hold endlink bolt, 18v impact gun, and a torque wrench to do the work. nice and quick.

another spammer? reported.

DIY: Sway bar installation (front)
 

I was struggling with the front End links 17 nut, it was harder to unbolt then the rear end links. Sprayed WD40, left it for an hour and it was loosen up.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/19/nymape6u.jpg

It took longer to remove the under shroud than to switch the front sway bar. :shakes head:

For those who wants to DIY, do this on the next oil change.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/19/e2agu7eb.jpg

my 18v impact took it off in about 5sec. :p

I bought Craftsman Impact Wrench but it was too heavy. Which 18v impact do you have Ken?

Im thinking of getting a smaller/lighter impact wrench/driver?

Hi Chris,

Do you still think that Hotchkis bars are too rigid (especially the front bar) ?
I'm looking for FR+RR bars with stock springs and struts

:tiphat:

oh i didnt see this post until just now... :ugh:

i used my milwaukee 18v 3/8 drive impact.

i also have a corded 1/2 drive heavy duty impact as well if my 3/8 drive
can't handle it, but for this project the 18v did fine. :D

Thanks for the write up, helped a lot. I did this step by step from here. +1

you installed it backwards. :shakes head:
















;)

Did I really? Honestly?

That is the front only pic