Has anyone installed NST Pulleys?

370ZilverZ · 01-10-2012, 05:53 PM

I searched the DIY threads, but nobody has posted anything for the NST pulley install. Is is a simple install with standard handtools? I like to read up and get the most information I can find prior to doing upgrades incase someone finds trouble spots like the demon bolt when replacing cats. Any help in this area would be much appreciated.

'10Anamoly · 01-10-2012, 05:54 PM

I watched someone install a crank pulley on a 370z, basically putting a breaker bar on the crank bolt, wedging the bar on the ground and cranking the starter to break it loose.

Let's just say I wont be putting my 'lady through that for 3-4hp, it was ugly.

XwChriswX · 01-10-2012, 06:07 PM

The reason there isn't much DIY coverage on it is that it's something that's not very easy to do yourself properly. It's something best left to an experienced installer to do it right. Otherwise it could lead to some problems down the road. For some the small hp gain and smoothness of power band and decreased rev time isn't worth the hassle/possible trouble. However having one installed myself and running it for 5k since now, with zero problems. I see it as a good thing if installed properly, and I have had a noticeable improvement in response time and smoothness through the band.

But to each unto their own...

Rooskey · 01-10-2012, 06:48 PM

Obviously disconnect the battery. Use a bar to hold the crank pulley in place while loosening the bolt (Do Not use the starter to loosen the crank bolt). Remove the alternator to install that pulley. Took my in house mechanic roughly an hour for the install. No problems and well worth the money. Some people have had problems but I think its more of not knowing how to work on cars rather than the product.

370ZilverZ · 01-10-2012, 06:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rooskey

Obviously disconnect the battery. Use a bar to hold the crank pulley in place while loosening the bolt (Do Not use the starter to loosen the crank bolt). Remove the alternator to install that pulley. Took my in house mechanic roughly an hour for the install. No problems and well worth the money. Some people have had problems but I think its more of not knowing how to work on cars rather than the product.

My problem is not knowing the ins and outs of this car and the best ways to get access to components. I like to do as much of my own work as possible. I would have never done the starter method to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Luck was on the side of that build. I prefer to not rely on luck as much as using the correct tools and armed with good knowledge. I appreciate all I am gaining from the club members here.

370ZilverZ · 01-10-2012, 09:00 PM

After reading some great treads from WSTAR on wstar's Journal also RCZ and others on the topic of installing the "STILLEN light weight crank pulley" and underdrive pulley, I was able to get the info I was looking for. If you plan on doing this mod and have questions about the "balancer" issues, you will be very well informed. WSTAR has a good write up in his journal discussing the installation issues and how his butt dyno results turned out.

370Z JT · 01-10-2012, 11:44 PM

I'm doing a before and after dyno pull on the NST pulley set. Look for a post tmrw.

370ZilverZ · 01-11-2012, 07:29 AM

Look forward to it. Thanks!

370ZilverZ · 01-12-2012, 08:45 PM

Today I removed the crank pulley and alternator pulley to prepare for installation of the NST Pulley Kit. The Puley kit arrived today, but unfortunately the NST kit comes with no documentation. However, the Stillen kit does and it's available here http://www.stillen.com/product_files/400338~inst.pdf This will at least assist you with the removal of the crank pulley.
Find a helper if you can, but I did it by myself and it can be done that way. I used 3/4" drive breaker bar to remove the torque from the crank pulley and an 18" pry bar to keep the flex plate from turning at the starter opening. The larger the tool, the greater leverage and the easier the job.
There is a large amount of tension on the belt tensioner. I used a 3/8" breaker bar and then found a deep well socket that fit over the handle and attached enough extensions on the socket so it extended the handle to give more leverage. Starting with the handle facing 7 o'clock position I pushed the handle to the 5 o'clock position and added another extension so that the bottom of the last extention rests on the ground keeping the tensioner unloaded.
I'm not sure what puller they use, as I purchased the smallest one I could fing and I did not have room to use it unless I removed the fans. I don't know if it is because my Z has less than 200 miles on it, but I used a medium sized pry bar and pushed behind the crank pulley a couple times and was able to wiggle it off of the crank.
Removal of the alternator requires removing the two bolts holding the mounting bracket and alernator on the bottom of the alternator. Disconnect the electrical connctors and then loosen the bolt at the top of the alternator. Pull the bolt out as far as you can. The alternator is fit very tightly. You may have to pull the fan assy. up slightly to pull the upper mounting bolt out. Otherwise rocking the alternator up and down while pulling will release it from the block and you can lower it and work it out in front of the sway bar. Use a rag to protect the grooves on the pulley and a suitable set of plier (channel locks, vice grips etc...) Using an impact wrench, remove the pulley from the alternator. Reverse steps to install.
Sorry no pics, but I had my hands full just doing the work. I may have help with the install tomorrow and document better with pics.

Rooskey · 01-12-2012, 10:50 PM

Yeah your right I do believe that my guy had to loosen the fans. I also changed mine with only a few miles and the crank pulley came right off without using a puller.

370ZilverZ · 01-15-2012, 01:03 PM

Here are pics and a video of the NST pulleys installed. The video shows the stock belt and how loose it is when you install the underdrive NST pulleys. NST does sell a smaller belt to go with the kit (Gates K070786) and I would purchase that along with the kit. My Z has less than 200 miles, so the slack is not from wear. The tensioner is fully relaxed which was a red flag for me, plus the amount of slack in the belt.

I ordered a belt locally and will put it on tomorrow after it gets in and post the results.

370ZilverZ · 01-15-2012, 01:46 PM

This may come in handy for those that need a diagram to help reinstall the serpentine belt.

Trips · 01-15-2012, 02:15 PM

Good, Write up daemon1957!

I would recommend that folks going these route to order the optional belt.

It was offered to makeup for the slack in the Original belt.

I have sticky'd this for the rest of the members who feel they'd like some guidance and have the help in attempting this.

01-10-2012, 05:53 PM	#1 (permalink)
370ZilverZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW, TX Age: 66 Posts: 2,321 Drives: '11 BMW Z4 Rep Power: 18	Has anyone installed NST Pulleys? I searched the DIY threads, but nobody has posted anything for the NST pulley install. Is is a simple install with standard handtools? I like to read up and get the most information I can find prior to doing upgrades incase someone finds trouble spots like the demon bolt when replacing cats. Any help in this area would be much appreciated. __________________ 370ZilverZ Journal BMW Z4

01-10-2012, 05:54 PM	#2 (permalink)
'10Anamoly Track Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: GA Posts: 882 Drives: 2010 370Z BS M6 Rep Power: 15	I watched someone install a crank pulley on a 370z, basically putting a breaker bar on the crank bolt, wedging the bar on the ground and cranking the starter to break it loose. Let's just say I wont be putting my 'lady through that for 3-4hp, it was ugly. __________________ 2013 Ford Mustang GT 374rwhp, 360rwtq SAE / GT500 Axle-Backs / Brembo Pack / Track Pack / Recaros / 6spd

01-10-2012, 06:07 PM	#3 (permalink)
XwChriswX WFLYIDNNE Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: In The Fastlane Posts: 50,648 Drives: 02 GDB WRX Rep Power: 451	The reason there isn't much DIY coverage on it is that it's something that's not very easy to do yourself properly. It's something best left to an experienced installer to do it right. Otherwise it could lead to some problems down the road. For some the small hp gain and smoothness of power band and decreased rev time isn't worth the hassle/possible trouble. However having one installed myself and running it for 5k since now, with zero problems. I see it as a good thing if installed properly, and I have had a noticeable improvement in response time and smoothness through the band. But to each unto their own... __________________ Bonnie - Stage 2, Audio build coming this fall! R.I.P. Abby 3/29/10 - 3/30/14

01-10-2012, 09:00 PM	#6 (permalink)
370ZilverZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW, TX Age: 66 Posts: 2,321 Drives: '11 BMW Z4 Rep Power: 18	After reading some great treads from WSTAR on wstar's Journal also RCZ and others on the topic of installing the "STILLEN light weight crank pulley" and underdrive pulley, I was able to get the info I was looking for. If you plan on doing this mod and have questions about the "balancer" issues, you will be very well informed. WSTAR has a good write up in his journal discussing the installation issues and how his butt dyno results turned out. __________________ 370ZilverZ Journal BMW Z4 Last edited by 370ZilverZ; 01-10-2012 at 09:03 PM.

01-10-2012, 11:44 PM	#7 (permalink)
370Z JT A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: United States Posts: 2,905 Drives: 370Z PW 7AT Rep Power: 378	I'm doing a before and after dyno pull on the NST pulley set. Look for a post tmrw. __________________ Click for My Journal Top Secret \| EVO-R \| Fujimura Auto \| Shine Auto \| Seibon \| MRWorks \| Swift \| SPC \| SSR \| UpRev \| Project Kics \| NST \| Titek \| Eibach \| Nismo \| Whiteline \| Quaife \| Invidia \| Fly1 \| CF Element \| Carbon Signal

01-10-2012, 06:48 PM	#4 (permalink)
Rooskey Track Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: South Carolina Posts: 974 Drives: 2014 Alpha7 GTR Rep Power: 15	Obviously disconnect the battery. Use a bar to hold the crank pulley in place while loosening the bolt (Do Not use the starter to loosen the crank bolt). Remove the alternator to install that pulley. Took my in house mechanic roughly an hour for the install. No problems and well worth the money. Some people have had problems but I think its more of not knowing how to work on cars rather than the product.

01-11-2012, 07:29 AM	#8 (permalink)
370ZilverZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW, TX Age: 66 Posts: 2,321 Drives: '11 BMW Z4 Rep Power: 18	Look forward to it. Thanks! __________________ 370ZilverZ Journal BMW Z4

01-12-2012, 08:45 PM	#9 (permalink)
370ZilverZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW, TX Age: 66 Posts: 2,321 Drives: '11 BMW Z4 Rep Power: 18	Today I removed the crank pulley and alternator pulley to prepare for installation of the NST Pulley Kit. The Puley kit arrived today, but unfortunately the NST kit comes with no documentation. However, the Stillen kit does and it's available here http://www.stillen.com/product_files/400338~inst.pdf This will at least assist you with the removal of the crank pulley. Find a helper if you can, but I did it by myself and it can be done that way. I used 3/4" drive breaker bar to remove the torque from the crank pulley and an 18" pry bar to keep the flex plate from turning at the starter opening. The larger the tool, the greater leverage and the easier the job. There is a large amount of tension on the belt tensioner. I used a 3/8" breaker bar and then found a deep well socket that fit over the handle and attached enough extensions on the socket so it extended the handle to give more leverage. Starting with the handle facing 7 o'clock position I pushed the handle to the 5 o'clock position and added another extension so that the bottom of the last extention rests on the ground keeping the tensioner unloaded. I'm not sure what puller they use, as I purchased the smallest one I could fing and I did not have room to use it unless I removed the fans. I don't know if it is because my Z has less than 200 miles on it, but I used a medium sized pry bar and pushed behind the crank pulley a couple times and was able to wiggle it off of the crank. Removal of the alternator requires removing the two bolts holding the mounting bracket and alernator on the bottom of the alternator. Disconnect the electrical connctors and then loosen the bolt at the top of the alternator. Pull the bolt out as far as you can. The alternator is fit very tightly. You may have to pull the fan assy. up slightly to pull the upper mounting bolt out. Otherwise rocking the alternator up and down while pulling will release it from the block and you can lower it and work it out in front of the sway bar. Use a rag to protect the grooves on the pulley and a suitable set of plier (channel locks, vice grips etc...) Using an impact wrench, remove the pulley from the alternator. Reverse steps to install. Sorry no pics, but I had my hands full just doing the work. I may have help with the install tomorrow and document better with pics. Gibby1113 likes this. __________________ 370ZilverZ Journal BMW Z4

01-12-2012, 10:50 PM	#10 (permalink)
Rooskey Track Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: South Carolina Posts: 974 Drives: 2014 Alpha7 GTR Rep Power: 15	Yeah your right I do believe that my guy had to loosen the fans. I also changed mine with only a few miles and the crank pulley came right off without using a puller.

01-15-2012, 01:03 PM	#11 (permalink)
370ZilverZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW, TX Age: 66 Posts: 2,321 Drives: '11 BMW Z4 Rep Power: 18	Here are pics and a video of the NST pulleys installed. The video shows the stock belt and how loose it is when you install the underdrive NST pulleys. NST does sell a smaller belt to go with the kit (Gates K070786) and I would purchase that along with the kit. My Z has less than 200 miles, so the slack is not from wear. The tensioner is fully relaxed which was a red flag for me, plus the amount of slack in the belt. I ordered a belt locally and will put it on tomorrow after it gets in and post the results. __________________ 370ZilverZ Journal BMW Z4 Last edited by 370ZilverZ; 01-15-2012 at 09:17 PM.

01-15-2012, 01:46 PM	#12 (permalink)
370ZilverZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: DFW, TX Age: 66 Posts: 2,321 Drives: '11 BMW Z4 Rep Power: 18	Serpentine belt diagram This may come in handy for those that need a diagram to help reinstall the serpentine belt. __________________ 370ZilverZ Journal BMW Z4 Last edited by 370ZilverZ; 01-15-2012 at 09:17 PM.

01-15-2012, 02:15 PM	#13 (permalink)
Trips Administrator Join Date: May 2009 Location: Disneyland, Ca Posts: 8,728 Drives: 🔰 Rep Power: 10	Good, Write up daemon1957! I would recommend that folks going these route to order the optional belt. It was offered to makeup for the slack in the Original belt. I have sticky'd this for the rest of the members who feel they'd like some guidance and have the help in attempting this. __________________

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