Ok, just went out to the car, the light was off, and pulled the fuse! THANK GOD for some good luck. Car starts, all is well. Thanks for the advice kenchan, I didn't feel like forking over lots of money for something that isn't really needed.

+1 for you!

^^ awesome. good to hear happy endings. :D

looks like nissan went up to REV-E now... per cossie...

:shakes head:

yes, so much for german engineering...

...so much for my Rev D... :shakes head:

I think best to cut the brown wire or remove fuse while things are still working... unless you have a spare lock.

I have the custom harness that bypasses the lock. I am installing it on Saturday befoe I drive down to wonderful Dinuba, CA.

Fixed it + step by step
 

:icon18:

Just corrected this problem in my 2010 Nismo. The car was transported to my home from a previous position in NV. During the transport - something happened and this module would not operate upon delivery. My guess is that the trailer took a hard up/down shot on the road and that engaged the module. My steps render the module inoperable but except for time, it's a free fix. Local Nissan dealer quoted me $1200-$1300 for the repair.

1. Tools I used: Small wire cutter, needle nose pliers, T-10 Torx bit + driver, Dremel rotary tool with metal cutting disc, straight screwdriver, 10mm wrench, flashlight, shop rag.

2. Put the back of the driver seat at least straight up, push the seat as far back as possible.

3. Lower both windows at least slightly.

4. Disconnect ground connection at battery.

5. Going under dash, the module is located at the bottom of the steering column right next to the lip of the dash. Rectangle box - has some wordage about discarding if dropped.

6. The two security screws are not very tight at all, just snug. Use the needle nose pliers and back them out a bit, finish with your fingers.

7. Caution, there is yellow grease between the box and steering column. Don't get that on your seats or carpet.

8. With the module hanging down, use the pliers to hold the clip in on the connecter and disconnect the box.

9. On your workbench, you will see that at the top of the module there is a rectangle piece that engages the steering box to lock it. This piece will be at the top and for the module to allow the car to go to ACC, ON and Start, the piece should be recessed - you can take the screwdriver and push it down but it's doubtful if that will release it.

10. Next to where this piece is, you will see a metal plate retainer that has a T-10 Torx screw holding it. Remove the screw and the retainer. It has to come straight up a little and then outward. In my case this still did not release the module, it might in your case.

11. If the module has still not released, take a small hammer, plastic preferable or the end of your screwdriver and rap on the bottom of the module, mine released after 4-5 taps.

12. On the backside of the retainer that you removed in Step 10, there is a clip piece with a spring behind it. Use the screwdriver or needle nose pliers and remove the spring, the clip piece can be removed after the spring it out.

13. Replace the retainer plate and torx screw. The module is essentially inoperable at this point.

14. I went one step further and clipped the wire at Terminal # 1 - Brown color. Cover the end with a small piece of electrical tape and turn the wire back underneath the plastic sheathing.

15. Reconnect the module to the plug connecter, just let it hang.

16. Reconnect the ground side of the battery.

17. You should now be able to go to ACC, ON, and Start the engine.

18. You have some choices on bolting the module back in. I chose to put the screws in a vise and cut slots in the screw heads with the Dremel tool. That way I could use the straight screwdriver to reuse them. You could also obtain metric bolts of the same size and length or you could use the screws as is using the long needle pliers.

19. All done except putting your seat back in position - which will probably drive you nuts! :icon17:

i recommend one to tap at the broken lock while still on the car (with harness connected) and continue pushing the push-start repetitively until they can momentary revive the steering lock.

once you hear it wind up, keep the car in ACC, and cut the brown wire in the harness leading to the steering lock (per Fritz's DIY) to disable the lock in the 'unlocked' position.

then start the car. and shut off the car and re-try.

no need to remove the steering lock from the car if the broken lock can be revived momentarily.

So if im not wrong i judt got this issue and the security light is up.

Looking every where found this Security Indicator Symbols | DashboardSymbols.com which means steering lock light is on.

Ingition switch is locked right?

The car had no problem at all but the light is constantly blinking. So it is true that if i wiggle the wheel it will unlock? Or i must remove the switch?

Just the light makes me crazy even more thinking that a 2013 couldnt haf tjis issue as some told me but i got it...

Last night, I got into my ZCar and it didn't start per usual. The "red key light" indicator is on to the left of dash display. The car will not go into ACC mode, and thus not start.

My vehicle is a 2009 Nissan 370Z - 6speed - sport I've been doing a ton of research to try and resolve this issue. So far this thread has been the most helpful.

I'm assuming my car is currently experiencing "Steering Lock Failure"

My Z currently has approx 70,000 miles on it, does anyone know for sure if this problem has been recalled?!

If I do take my Z to a dealership, do you think it will be replaced as a recall issue?!

Thanks in advance for anyone's help!

Jason S.

No one has posted anything about a recall that I have noticed. I imagine it will be big news on here and hard to avoid if it ever happens. I encourage you to file a complaint with the NHTSA.

If you want to read more on SLU failures and fixes, check out my Links to posts about Steering Wheel Lock thread.

Hey bud,

Thanks for writing me back about this, I'm currently waiting for a tow truck:shakes head: I'll see what comes of this when I get to have my car looked at and inspected. I'm going to file a complaint with the government about this being unsafe, being that this has left me stranded and without a car. I'll also be looking into your thread about "Steering Wheel Lock"

Thanks again,

Jason S.

sucks. did you try tapping at the lock itself? should really give that a try and permanently disable it once it turns on momentarily. (see a few posts up) if you car's out of warranty you could be footing the bill which can cost well north of $800 all together... yikes.

GL!