It sounds like you have a huge electrical issue somewhere that isn't powering your accessories, including your brakes.

At this point im not sure about anything. Im already at $5500 in parts for the new navi. If its a huge electrical issue i want them to lemon the car because thats total bogus? Talked to joe here on the forums and koeppel is taking care of me. Im towing it in on friday

Hey guys, looks like I am the latest victim of this issue. I had the car towed to the dealer and they called me today to let me know it is, in fact, the steering lock and the total is $1,245! I read the DIY on the first page and most of the pages in this thread. Maybe I'm missing something, but I do not see any photos in the DIY, but the write up makes it sound like they were there at one time. I have looked under the steering column and see the unit. I tried the temporary techniques, but none worked. I'm fairly handy, but don't want to tow the car to my house to find out I can't get this thing out and get the new one in. If I can buy one online for ~$600, it appears I can save $650. How many of you have done this yourselves and is it really an easy 15 minute job? Any pics or advice would be very much appreciated. Thanks!

Try to bang on the steering lock to get the car to unlock the wheel. Once it does, leave the car in ACC mode, and pull the damn fuse so that it never locks again

I was trough the exact same thing got stranded and didnt know what to do, i looked around in the forum nothing worked except this, now my car runs fine. doing this means your not gonna have a locked wheel when the car is off, if you dont mind heres how to start your car,


Take the steering lock out if know how if not remove the screws the it just comes off.

Follow instructions and pictures, this is from the forum.



1. first picture is old rev b lock
2. drilled out the tabs on the both sides with dremel
3. cover removed
4. removed #10 torx screws
5. circuit board removed
6. back piece with the gears
7. two tabs held down with piece of metal and electrical tape
8. all taped up and ready for testing
9. make sure you tape the end down or remove it so you can turn your steering wheel


Let me know if you need any other help!

I saw these recommendations on the DIY and tried them all with no avail. I sure wish I'd have seen this sticky before this happened.:shakes head:

Thanks for the tips, D370z. The car is at the dealer right now and I'm trying to decide if I'm going to risk towing it to my house and trying to fix or repair myself or having them do it. Either way, I'm thinking an angry letter to Nissan needs to happen.

No problem, That was the same thought i had at the time I got stranded, but i fixed and forgot about it i guess.

Good luck with the dealers! hope it works out.

A couple of months ago I traded for a 2010 Touring Roadster with 32k miles. I've been following on the steering lock threads (getting nervous) and now have only a few miles left on the warrenty. I don't know the original owner or I would ask them. It has a build date of 11/09, but I've looked at the lock and it's Rev C. I'm not sure, but it may have been replaced already. Also, when I power the car on I don't hear the lock mechanism lock or unlock and even when off, the steering wheel will moves freely side to side. I'm just wondering if someone pulled the fuse already. As I remember drom the 350Z's, when the steering wheel locked, it didn't budge. Not sure about this one though. Thanks in advance.

If it is locked then the steering wheel shouldn't move but more than a few mm. Note that the steering wheel doesn't lock when you shut off the car, but rather when you open the door. So if it is moving free at all times then either the fuse was pulled or the wire cut.

Thanks for the response. I don't remember if the door was opened or closed. I'll check again. When opening the doors, i do hear a sound, but thought it was just the window mechanisim. Maybe tomorrow I'll just plan on pulling the fuse anyway. Then there's no doubt. :) Thanks again.

I have a 2010 Roadster that I just bought as well, only 7500 miles, but I just ordered the harness....not taking any chances even with the warranty.

I don't blame you. I hate dealing with warrenty work. I've bought 3 Muranos, 2 350ZRoadsters and now the 370Z Roadster in the past 8 years from the same dealer. I have yet to have any warrenty work done. Maybe I've just been lucky, but I really have had good luck with Nissan's.

A couple of weeks ago, I had installed a cigar lighter in the Z and had used it a dozen times. One afternoon I got in the car abd drove off, but when i looked down, all the guages were dead. Just black, but the car was driving fine. I drove it straight to the dealer and they told me the cigar lighter was the culprit. Since it was my mod, the warrenty wouldn't cover it. They would give me a break and only charge $50. to change the fuse. I said, " seriously dude? This is the sixth car I've bought from you guys. Are you sure you want to go there?" He thought about it a second and told me to never mind. :) I would have paid it, but damn. :) Seriously though, I have had great luck with Nissan.

D370Z said, on 11 or 12 Oct
Follow instructions and pictures, this is from the forum.
That forum "from the forum" posting (not 370Z's) is DANGEROUS and should be nowhere near a sticky.

If the lock is on the car with the motor connected and the sensors depressed then
the lock can LOCK THE STEERING while in motion:
In another thread I showed how to do "this" (but not with tape please) but installing it in an eyeglass case without the lock.
Depressing the lock element with tape is real "DIY" rubbish.
In fact the lock element is being depressed against a cush-spring but is actually held in
"locked mode with cush-spring depressed"

Tape will give way and the lock will engage when driving.
The motor will repeatedly press at the lock. Tape is ridiculous. A threaded bolt could do it but then there's a fire danger (as there may be, actually, with tape).
Further: the torque of the motor is not understood it will soon, with heat, stretch the tape holding on the cover and lift it to engage or disengage the motor gear. Screws are essential.

IN BLOCKS: I AM SHOUTING. THIS REMOVES FAIL SAFE AND HAS NO BUSINESS NEAR A DIY:::OR ANY SITE...apologies to the originator.....but!!!

By all means e-mail me for long, detailed, and fail-safe (for your health) instructions
but I need your real name and address as I do not want bits copied irresponsibly and I prefer cars not to be stolen. This is so serious that I give my own e-mail address Johnmacd@hotmail.com. which, unlike this site, I visit often.

Fritz:

The Solution
 

I have a 2009 with a November build date, It has 17,600 miles presently and after hearing about this problem I told my dealer I was concerned, but they service so few 370s they have yet to replace one. It seems like the fuse pull is by far the best solution.

My Turn
 

Went to the car to get the extended warranty inspection completed at the dealer. The factory warranty expires next month. What happens? The car won't start! Lights work, but won't crank. Dash shows Key warning light on. Having it towed to Essermman Nissan as you read this. Outcome should be interesting.
I'll update later today.