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DIY: Nissan 370Z Oil change (AK370Z way) Pictures inside

Originally Posted by pbs370z Someone please enlighten me on this. If there were some ferrous (iron, steel) particles suspended in the oil pan, wouldn't the filter capture it there? I

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Old 09-23-2013, 08:39 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pbs370z View Post
Someone please enlighten me on this. If there were some ferrous (iron, steel) particles suspended in the oil pan, wouldn't the filter capture it there? I just don't get the need for a magnetic drain plug, but maybe I'm missing something.
It's for EXTRA protection, yeah in THEORY it's the filter's job, but maybe that piece of metal is big enough and your oil is flowing fast enough to blow a hole through the filter?
It's more preventative and/or, 'if you're gonna do it, might as well overdo it'
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Old 06-25-2014, 02:26 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Gotta Luv them Magnetic Oil Drain Plugs!

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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
It's for EXTRA protection, yeah in THEORY it's the filter's job, but maybe that piece of metal is big enough and your oil is flowing fast enough to blow a hole through the filter?
It's more preventative and/or, 'if you're gonna do it, might as well overdo it'
re: Magnetic Drain Plug

OK, well you guys got me all worried about nuthin' I suppose (most of the metal particles aren't ferrous anyway) but I went ahead and installed a magnetic drain plug.

I found mine on Amazon: Mishimoto MMODP-12125B Black M12 x 1.25 Magnetic Oil Drain Plug ) 12 x 1.25mm (fine thread).

The first time I ordered I just specified 370Z and they sent me a 12 x 1.50 (coarse thread, I think the pkg. was just mis-marked) so I had to send it back. The second time I specified 12 x 1.25 mm and they got me the right one. It seems well made and has one helluva strong Neodymium magnet in it. I can't wait to capture all them steel chunks!

Also: I returned this one due to a very weak magnet: NRG M12 X 1.25 Gold Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Part # NOP-200GD (from Auto Dynasty).

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Old 09-23-2013, 09:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pbs370z View Post
Someone please enlighten me on this. If there were some ferrous (iron, steel) particles suspended in the oil pan, wouldn't the filter capture it there? I just don't get the need for a magnetic drain plug, but maybe I'm missing something.
I've never cut my filter open to look at it but I've seen stuff on the tip of the magnetic drain plug. I thought there were pics on the web of folks who had cut the filters in half and you could see the stuff trapped on the side of the filter. If you don't want to spring for the $25 and put it on then don't. I know I sleep better at night knowing it's on there.
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Old 12-29-2013, 09:47 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Just wanted to say thanks for the great write up and info from all.
I will reference this thread if I ever have to write a paper on oils.

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Old 05-28-2009, 12:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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yeah, i got it now.....you would need a serious magnet to get the those metal particles.

but still a good idea.... there's not much shops around me that take used oil.

where do you put urs??
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Old 05-28-2009, 03:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by nogoodname007 View Post
yeah, i got it now.....you would need a serious magnet to get the those metal particles.
From filtermag webstie:
Quote:
In order for FilterMAG™ to remove minute steel particles from the oil system, its magnets must have enough energy to hold incredibly fine particles against the velocity of the oil flow. FilterMAG™'s patented design employs a focused magnetic force field, that amplifies its incredibly powerful Neodymium magnets, to generate the immense force needed to forcibly remove tiny particles below 20-micron from the oil flow; and retain increasingly smaller particles -- as small as 2-microns -- against the pressure of oil flow velocity.

FilterMAG™'s patented magnetic flux amplifier technology redirects the magnetic energy normally present on the far side of the magnet towards the inside of the filter canister. The flux amplifier has to be of a precise thickness to maximise the magnetic field. The circumference is adjusted to allow for manufacturing variances to result in a precise fit & alignment of the series of magnets to the filter canister. This focuses the maximum amount of magnetic energy within the oil flow. The successful and proven result is a masterpiece of automotive engineering.
conclusion: Neodymium magnets = very strong magnet.
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Old 05-28-2009, 05:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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just wanted to verify
redline oil has ester? just wanted to know because i was going to go with motul but redline is cheaper also
part number for filter mag is SS250?
thank you
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Old 05-28-2009, 06:27 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ZzzZz View Post


Why not just remove the 4 bolts at the bottom of the cover. Notice there's that fold/crease about 8 inches up from the bottom? I believe that's what the designers intended that to be.
Removing the 4 bolts doesn't quite give you access to neither oil filter nor drain plug because they are situated a little deeper than that . I'm sure you can try and do it but if you can buy a motorized screwdriver ($10 shipped EBAY), it makes your life a whole lot easier.


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Originally Posted by pluckyduck View Post
Slightly OT, but why not just leave the entire cover off? Wouldn't this provide some air flow for cooling? Or does the plastic cover provide aerodynamic functionality? It seems to me that manufacturers are adding more and more plastic covers both above and below the engine bay these days...
I believe Nissan uses this cover to prevent road debris, big rocks etc from hitting the bottom part of your Z and causing damage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tru_Asiatik View Post
just wanted to verify
redline oil has ester? just wanted to know because i was going to go with motul but redline is cheaper also
part number for filter mag is SS250?
thank you
You can go with either one. If you track/race your car every weekend, I suggest you to go with Motul. If you drive like a granpa (like me ), then go with redline. They are both group 5 synthetic which is ester based. You're correct on the part number if using K&N filter. K&N filter has a 2.69" diameter which falls into SS250 range and it fits perfect. (SS250 filtermag range 2.50"-2.75") For different diameters, they have different SS models. Hope this helps.
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:27 AM   #9 (permalink)
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awesome dyi! thank you

so when your switching to synthetic? do you do the exact same steps? no special steps in between?
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Old 06-01-2009, 05:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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awesome dyi! thank you

so when your switching to synthetic? do you do the exact same steps? no special steps in between?
Redline IS synthetic!
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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do you have to do any kind of reset within the instrument cluster for the oil change interval? I know some Maxima's and Altima's have a 'oil change interval' light/computer warning.

So does the 370z have to have something reset?
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Old 06-01-2009, 01:25 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ricer333 View Post
do you have to do any kind of reset within the instrument cluster for the oil change interval? I know some Maxima's and Altima's have a 'oil change interval' light/computer warning.

So does the 370z have to have something rest?
You can manually change and reset the interval.
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Old 08-23-2010, 03:38 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricer333 View Post
do you have to do any kind of reset within the instrument cluster for the oil change interval? I know some Maxima's and Altima's have a 'oil change interval' light/computer warning.

So does the 370z have to have something reset?
Could you add this as one of the steps in your DIY? I actually used your DIY on my first oil change! Thank you very much!


Though now I'm finally getting the warning that I need to change my oil and oil filter. LMAO!
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Old 08-23-2010, 04:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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FWIW, I changed the oil on my NISMO last Friday. Here are a couple things I did different than in the DIY.

1. Starter Ramps--I got a 6' section of 2x12 from a lumber store, cut it in half and then put 45 degree miter cuts along one edge (the 12" side) for each half. I pulled the front onto those and then slid my low-profile jack up to the front cross member jack point. I probably could've gotten away without the mitre cut, but the tires grabbed right away on the wood and nothing slid.

2. Jack Stands vs. Ramps--Rather than jacks or ramps I purchased a single set of 12" 2-piece Race Ramps wheel cribs (RR-WC-12-2). This gave me four 6" halves that each have a lip that cups the wheel when underneath. This gave me 6" of lift at all four corners.

3. Bolts--I removed only the 4 bolts on the rear of the underbody tray and used two bungee cords to keep the flap out of the way. Worked like a charm.

The RR cribs worked great. There is still play in the suspension, but the cribs didn't compress at all when the tires were down. Also, when the front tires were on cribs and I went to jack up the rear the front tires didn't move forward in the cup. If you're very low and don't want to use jack stands this is an alternative.

Oh, and don't even try getting the OEM filter off by hand. Just have a removal tool ready before you start.
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Old 06-01-2009, 04:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Redline IS synthetic!
doH!
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