DIY: Stainless Steel Clutch Line

chops

faoideaujsfcksodfoisernfg ****! i think i may have ****** up my hardline. how hard was it to swap? i got everything off, but that stupid nut to the rubber line would not come off. i ended up sticking the stock line back on, and went to bleed the clutch. everytime the clutch is pressed, then returns, i hear a swoosh or squish sound like air is getting back into the lines somewhere

SPOHN

You'll have to go to Nissan to get another. Easy to replace after removing the inner plastic fender and tire. It's a right there. These fittings and nuts are definitely over tighten from the manufacture.

__________________

chops

in stock? or ordered?

SPOHN

Most likely ordered. May take only two days most.

__________________

BeemaaZ

I have the one from the zstore for a few thousand miles without the heat shield so far it's holding up pretty good.

__________________
SoCal 40th Meet
Old & New Mods
** Steering Lock RECALL**
Own 40th 370Z? Get the build # and the Manuf. date here

chops

gah. guess im bending my own then!!!

edit: success! for anyone who strips the flare nut that goes from the hardline to the softline, go to your parts store and buy something like below. its a coated steel brake line with the following specs:

- 3/16 Inch Outside Diameter x 30 Inch Length
- SAE Inverted Flare/Metric M10 x 1.0 Thread

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...0834&ppt=C0066

i simply cut the hardline off where the flare nut was, then used that to make a close to identical bent hardline from the driver side wheel well. you will need about 27 inches to mimic the OEM hardline, but the extra 3 inches wont hurt.

N0SL3N

Just finished this DIY and let me say it was a huge pain in the a$$. First of all I decided to leave the HFC and bracket in place, if I were to do this again I would probably remove it. The pressure plate is hard to remove and install in such a tight space.

I also removed and drilled out the restrictor in the fender well to improve flow. I found that when I had the line completely open, no fluid wanted to flow out. But when I was installing the SS line it decided to drip onto my head.

Another tip, the fitting by the banjo bolt has a slight bend to it and I think I had mine the wrong way which made it extremely difficult to get lined up.

Lastly I am probably going to have to replace the CMC and CSC (might as well do clutch and flywheel) because I cannot seem to build full pressure in the pedal. I have had this problem for a while now

__________________
| Akuma | Motordyne | Z1 | NST | CNT | Stillen | Avant Garde | RJM | Performix | Tint | LED | GTR | Nissan |

Bananaz

Might tackle this tomorrow! Great write-up

__________________

Darkstar752

Bump, any chance for pics? I know they were up a couple days ago, was gonna start this tomorrow and they're down

Darkstar752

Just to update: DIY was great even without pictures, and helped a lot, although I wouldn't recommend the listed bleeding procedure. I tried to manually bleed the car for about 4 hours, but literally nothing was able to dislodge the air bubble that had gotten trapped in the master cylinder(I could hear it.) I used every technique out there, following instructions to a T, but gravity/depressing the pedal simply did not generate enough force to move the air down the line. I could build partial pressure, but the car was not driveable in the slightest.

In the end, I went to Advanced Auto and got a vacuum bleeder which I rented for free. Was done bleeding in about 2 minutes, with the reservoir cap off and another person monitoring the level while I sucked all the air and fluid out of the bottom.

Also, I soaked all of the hardline bolts in PB blaster the night before, they all came off easily besides the one by the manifold, but that still came off with some effort using a line wrench. I would say this is a necessary step, I would have stripped that nut otherwise, it is extremely tight. Also, 45-degree plier were the only thing to remove the pressure plate by the manifold flange. I left my ART pipes in and worked around them, wasn't too bad. The line wrench was bumping against the manifold rather than the pipes, so they weren't directly in the way.

EDIT: Also, do yourself a favor and file down the edges of the subframe before you do this job. They can be razor sharp, I slipped at one point and gave myself a pretty gnarly slice near my wrist. After I filed it down and it was safe even if I slipped, took less than a minute to file off the sharp edges.

Mr.ChowZ

do you have to drop the transmission to upgrade the clutch line to the stainless steel clutch line?

nick654

Pictures for this thread are not view-able....is this only me ?

__________________
2015 370z Nismo l AAM Resonated Short Tails l AAM Mid-Pipe l Motordyne ART Test Pipe l BC/DR Coils w/Swift Springs l Forgestar l SPL

Elmo370z

where the pictures at

RanRich

Holy hell was this a b*tch. Pumped the pedal for about an hour straight to no avail. Ended using a vacuum pump to pull air/fluid through the line, which worked like a charm. Definitely have one on hand if you are planning on swapping out the line.

Once installed I can confirm what everyone else is saying. No more sloppy engagement point after hard or hot drives. pressure stays perfectly consistent. For $30 I can't think of a cheaper insurance policy for the CSC or CMC.

__________________
AAM | Dynosty | Ecutek | Eibach | Hawk | H&R | Nismo | Stillen | Stoptech | Z1