DIY: Oil Pressure Gauge

filip00

I don't wanna open a new thread, so I'll reuse this one to post a few questions before I get on to installing an oil cooler. All of the parts arrived so I just wanna make sure I got everything conceptualized as I should, so I have several questions (some of which are pretty simple and maybe stupid, but bear with me pls).

1. Does the oil cooler have a direction how it's supposed to be turned? I'm guessing it doesn't.

I bought the thermostatic plate adapter.




2. The side with the rubber, I'm guessing goes toward the engine, correct? The other side is flat, so the oil filter should attach on that side, yes?
3. On the thermostatic plate, the black hex screw is probably factory sealing the thermostat, nothing to do there, correct?
4. Thermostat itself is now probably closed, as the temperature isn't hot. But when I look through it - I can see the path for oil is partially open. Is this by design? I thought it would be completely closed until a certain temperature, and open only then to let the flow get to the oil cooler. Do I misunderstand something here?
5. These fittings on the sandwich plate and the same fittings on the oil cooler - should I use teflon or threadlocker or any other stuff to make sure it's tight and doesn't leak?

This is the pressure sensor and I just places the T-fitting on top of it to check threading. Here I have the following issue:



6. The thread on the sensor is for whatever reason, cone-shaped. It literally expands just a slightly bit going from top to bottom. It's barely visible, but you feel it the moment you start threading the T-fitting. Threads are 100% same width. Is this normal or is this a manufacturer's defect? I can imagine it being deliberate, so to have better thread engagement to get a super snug fit, but I'm worried the T-fitting might break if I thread it fully. I would sandpaper the bottom part of the threads so they fit easier, because it will be snug anyway, and I'd teflon or threadlock there. Thoughts?

Last question is regarding wiring. I know just the basics about wiring so I'd like to reconfirm something that's probably very obvious....
This is the schematics I got with the pressure gauge


Large pic: https://imgur.com/6QKmbk6

7. I want to have amber-amber lighting, which is described as ignoring the WHITE wire, and connecting only the ORANGE to the battery. BLACK and RED being the + and - wires, naturally. Am I right to assume that I need to tie both ORANGE and RED to the + terminal of the battery, BLACK to the ground and that's it? Wouldn't that inevitably drain the battery? I suspect I should connect it to something that turns on with the car....

Thank you!

40 to 332

A few questions to start:

1. What brand/model of oil cooler?
2. What brand/model of thermostatic plate?
3. What brand/model of oil pressure gauge and sensor?

The answers will be helpful to those who can assist you with the install.

filip00

Thanks, I was trying to ask the questions already in a sense that it would be clear regardless of the brands, bc probably there is no difference regarding teflon/threadlock etc...

Oil cooler: setrab, 25 row
Pressure gauge and sensor: RSP gauges
Sandwich plate (with thermostat) - mocal

40 to 332

OK, a few comments to start:

1. In terms of the installation of the thermostatic plate, you are correct. The side with the rubber o-ring should be mounted against either the upper oil pan or the factory oil cooler depending on the model year of the Z. (Earlier Z's were not equipped with the oil cooler). The oil filter will screw into the opposite side of the plate. Even with the plate installed, there should be enough space for the oil filter.

2. In terms of the fittings, I would recommend applying a small amount of Permatex high-temperature thread sealant (or an equivalent brand-name sealant) to the threads as opposed to using teflon or threadlocker. I've found that the Permatex sealant works well. That said, follow the manufacturers' instructions. If they say to use teflon, use it.

3. In terms of the sensor fittings, it's important to recognize that different thread types exist. The most common ones are NPT and BSPT. They have different thread pitches and are not interchangeable. The port in the engine block where the factory sensor is mounted is a BSPT thread type. You will need to determine the thread type of your T-fitting as well as the aftermarket sensor. It is important that the thread types match. Adaptors are available that allow "bridging" between fittings of different thread types.

4. In terms of the wiring, I would recommend running the sensor wires through the large rubber grommet located in the firewall behind the battery. Afterwards, make sure to apply some silicone or RTV sealant around the opening that may need to be created to feed the wires through. Once inside, you can run the wires to the gauge, wherever you decide to place it. In terms of the gauge wires, I'd recommend running them to the driver's footwell where you'll find a fuse box. Connect the load wire from the gauge to an "add-a-circuit" (or fuse tap) of suitable amperage that you can install in the fuse box. You can select what circuit you want to tap into. The ground wire from the gauge can be connected to a nearby grounding surface, such as a screw or bolt mounted into metal. Make sure to disconnect the battery before proceeding with the wiring.

Trust this helps!