Request: DIY Oil Pressure Gauge Install

spearfish25 · 03-07-2010, 05:24 PM

I'd love for someone to post a step-by-step install procedure for placing an oil pressure gauge in the three gauge cluster (replace voltage or clock). Obviously, interested in pics of how to install the pressure sensor and wire the thing.

vipor · 03-07-2010, 05:31 PM

Clock removal-gauge replacement

LOL just saw you posted in that thread

spearfish25 · 03-07-2010, 07:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipor

Clock removal-gauge replacement

LOL just saw you posted in that thread

Yeah, but nobody has really done it and documented the process!

vipor · 03-07-2010, 07:37 PM

Yeah AAM did it on Lou's car, but they aren't sharing. They did say that it was difficult though.

spearfish25 · 03-07-2010, 08:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipor

Yeah AAM did it on Lou's car, but they aren't sharing. They did say that it was difficult though.

What do you think it tough...installing the gauge or the sensor? I wonder if there is a way to rig the sensor into the oil cooler tubing.

vipor · 03-07-2010, 08:05 PM

The sensor looks easy to install, just a couple 1/2" NPT fittings.

Physically installing the gauge into the dash is the hard part.

ChrisSlicks · 03-07-2010, 08:12 PM

Definitely want to use a remote sender to make it easier. Running an oil line through the dash would be a PITA.

vipor · 03-07-2010, 08:14 PM

And risky. LOL

I've had a line bust before on an old Chevy of my brother's. Made quite the mess very quickly. Strangely enough the oil washed out.

spearfish25 · 03-07-2010, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipor

The sensor looks easy to install, just a couple 1/2" NPT fittings.

Physically installing the gauge into the dash is the hard part.

This makes it look straight forward but doesn't really address removing the old gauge.

rarwz · 03-13-2010, 03:19 PM

Well, today I started the investigation....
The very top piece is held on by 2 plastic pieces... IT IS NOT MEANT TO COME OFF, AND TAKING IT OFF WILL BREAK THE PIECES

*THE NEXT PICTURE IS THE PIECE YOU ACTUALLY WANT TO REMOVE*

So the diagram from the book is wrong, what you actually want to take off via 2 plastic clips and the metal piece is the 2nd part down... stupid 370 book. This piece was easy to take out with a flat head screwdriver putting it in the crease between the plastic piece and the dash and just pushing up.

From there its very difficult to make progress w/o either taking the dash out, or coming in from where the stereo is. All the plastic clip on pieces (the grey inside liner, and about 2 or 3 more layers deep) all have clips on the top *and bottom*, and none of the bottom ones I could get off.

Here is a diagram showing clip locations, and possibly where the hidden ones are. I did not find a screw or clip in behind the gauge to hold it in, so that part is still a mystery.

Also included is a size comparison... Looks like a little custom work would be required to get my autometer a/f gauge to sit flush.

rarwz · 03-13-2010, 03:22 PM

This may help clarify where you should and should NOT lift on so you dont break the top part like i did.
green = good.

vipor · 03-15-2010, 08:30 AM

Eww sucks to learn the hard way like that.. At least it looks like you may be able to epoxy that top portion back on there.

spearfish25 · 03-15-2010, 10:30 AM

+ Rep for doing all the R&D and taking one for the team! Hopefully Courtesy Parts has those top pieces so you can just replace them rather than glue.

DIGItonium · 03-15-2010, 11:04 PM

Thanks for the photos! Is it possible to fully expose the gauge faces and LCD display (i.e., pop off the needle and remove the faces) without removing the entire gauge assembly?

I'm going to get some custom gauge faces made and change out the LEDs, so I'm hoping that popping off the cover is all that's needed.

Thanks!

rarwz · 03-16-2010, 09:21 AM

not very easily. The problem is that there are usually 3 clips for each 'layer', of which 2 you can get to and 1 is on the bottom side. I just ordered my navtool, and will be taking out the nav unit, i'll let you know if you can get to the 3rd clip on the under side that way.

As of right now though and to the best of my knowledge, it would be quite a challenge.

03-07-2010, 05:24 PM	#1 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1857	Request: DIY Oil Pressure Gauge Install I'd love for someone to post a step-by-step install procedure for placing an oil pressure gauge in the three gauge cluster (replace voltage or clock). Obviously, interested in pics of how to install the pressure sensor and wire the thing. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

03-07-2010, 05:31 PM	#2 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 43 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 49	Clock removal-gauge replacement LOL just saw you posted in that thread __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

03-07-2010, 07:37 PM	#4 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 43 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 49	Yeah AAM did it on Lou's car, but they aren't sharing. They did say that it was difficult though. __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

03-07-2010, 08:05 PM	#6 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 43 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 49	The sensor looks easy to install, just a couple 1/2" NPT fittings. Physically installing the gauge into the dash is the hard part. __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

03-07-2010, 08:14 PM	#8 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 43 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 49	And risky. LOL I've had a line bust before on an old Chevy of my brother's. Made quite the mess very quickly. Strangely enough the oil washed out. __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

03-07-2010, 08:12 PM	#7 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	Definitely want to use a remote sender to make it easier. Running an oil line through the dash would be a PITA.

03-13-2010, 03:19 PM	#10 (permalink)
rarwz Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: 370z Posts: 178 Drives: 09 Touring Rep Power: 16	Well, today I started the investigation.... The very top piece is held on by 2 plastic pieces... IT IS NOT MEANT TO COME OFF, AND TAKING IT OFF WILL BREAK THE PIECES THE NEXT PICTURE IS THE PIECE YOU ACTUALLY WANT TO REMOVE So the diagram from the book is wrong, what you actually want to take off via 2 plastic clips and the metal piece is the 2nd part down... stupid 370 book. This piece was easy to take out with a flat head screwdriver putting it in the crease between the plastic piece and the dash and just pushing up. From there its very difficult to make progress w/o either taking the dash out, or coming in from where the stereo is. All the plastic clip on pieces (the grey inside liner, and about 2 or 3 more layers deep) all have clips on the top and bottom, and none of the bottom ones I could get off. Here is a diagram showing clip locations, and possibly where the hidden ones are. I did not find a screw or clip in behind the gauge to hold it in, so that part is still a mystery. Also included is a size comparison... Looks like a little custom work would be required to get my autometer a/f gauge to sit flush. 370zrider likes this.

03-13-2010, 03:22 PM	#11 (permalink)
rarwz Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: 370z Posts: 178 Drives: 09 Touring Rep Power: 16	This may help clarify where you should and should NOT lift on so you dont break the top part like i did. green = good.

03-15-2010, 08:30 AM	#12 (permalink)
vipor A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Euless, TX [ DFW ] Age: 43 Posts: 13,531 Drives: Nismo 09-0183 QAB Rep Power: 49	Eww sucks to learn the hard way like that.. At least it looks like you may be able to epoxy that top portion back on there. __________________ 2009 NISMO # 0193 \| QAB \| Albums! \| 05.04.10 (Dynojet) 291.94hp/248.28tq Oil Cooler (DIY) \| Custom Headlights \| GTSPEC Braces \| F.I. Long Tube Headers

03-15-2010, 10:30 AM	#13 (permalink)
spearfish25 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Naples, FL Posts: 4,117 Drives: to work Rep Power: 1857	+ Rep for doing all the R&D and taking one for the team! Hopefully Courtesy Parts has those top pieces so you can just replace them rather than glue. DEpointfive0 likes this. __________________ 2013 Cadillac V-Wagon, RIP Z

03-15-2010, 11:04 PM	#14 (permalink)
DIGItonium A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Kansas Posts: 3,800 Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT Rep Power: 43	Thanks for the photos! Is it possible to fully expose the gauge faces and LCD display (i.e., pop off the needle and remove the faces) without removing the entire gauge assembly? I'm going to get some custom gauge faces made and change out the LEDs, so I'm hoping that popping off the cover is all that's needed. Thanks! __________________

03-16-2010, 09:21 AM	#15 (permalink)
rarwz Base Member Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: 370z Posts: 178 Drives: 09 Touring Rep Power: 16	not very easily. The problem is that there are usually 3 clips for each 'layer', of which 2 you can get to and 1 is on the bottom side. I just ordered my navtool, and will be taking out the nav unit, i'll let you know if you can get to the 3rd clip on the under side that way. As of right now though and to the best of my knowledge, it would be quite a challenge.

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