Diy PDM project and Fusebox Delete.

VenomNinetail

So I want to keep all my audio, navigation, ac, media controls, etc. but I also want to move to a club legal wiring harness compatible with can bus and do a battery relocation.

I'm currently mapping out all my fuses and where they would go into the new PDM.

I'll be posting updates here, as well as linking videos.

Also likely going to do an airbag bypass before the clock spring (my plan is to keep the car forever, and I already have a quick release). If someone could help me wire up a bypass harness for the clock spring that would be great. (I'll keep that all neatly tucked away under the trim panels anyway).

As for the PDM it needs to be something with open 3rd party canbus communication. Considering Link Razor PDM or Motec PDM.

As far as tuning my car, I'm either going to tune with ECUtek or Emtron.

This is a dual use street and track car.

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VenomNinetail

So I learned I can probably run my Morimoto headlights, DRL harness and Hella DRLs (for the veil side bumper) on 5 to 6 amps. Which works fine for me. And it's protected with a 10 amp fuse.

The thing about a Fusebox Delete to PDM unit is you have to know roughly the actual current draw in amps to set it up correctly, or buy the right PDM unit.

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VenomNinetail

So I ran this question in a friend's Discord. And it might pull 22-25 amps, with the Bose Amp and Nav system at 12v.

its also Possible I'll have to test it the old fashion way with a multimeter.

If I'm powering my car with the Link Razor pdm, that means it will already take one of the 25amp slots.

And that's just for stock, so yeah, if I upgrade it thats also a 25amp slot or two.

any pdm I use needs to have an open canbus protocol to communicate with 3rd party systems.

zguynate

Ive also been thinking about doing this but ive run into issues with the factory can bus network not wanting to play ball.

My concern is if I remove the factory PDM that it will interrupt the Nissan can bus and cause issues. I have a Haltech Elite 2500 with their PD16 and ic7 dash. If I take the factory dash out the car will start, however will not turn off. The only way I can get it to turn off is by disconnecting the battery. This is due to the can bus network and the factory dash not communicating whatever information with the BCM. Same with the factory ECU. To get around all of this Ive had to keep both of those units in place and tuck them away.

If you do have any progress on this please post updates! Im curious to learn what you find out.

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2009 370z touring w/sports package