How to make your own ground wires.

[Ivoidwarranty]

This is something I wrote up for a different forum a while ago, but it works for everyone. I'm not a big fan of the connectors I used in this write up but there are hundreds of different connectors out there for you to choose from.

There are many reasons to upgrade your car’s grounding system. Adding more electrical loads, such as amplifiers for a sound system or electric fuel pumps, create more draw. Often, stock ground systems are already maxed out and could use a little help.
I’m not here to sell you on the idea or debate if you should add to the stock grounding system or replace the stock wire completely. A quick Google search will give you more reading than you will ever care for on that subject (search for ‘big three wires’). Also, finding the points where you want to attach the ground wires to is completely up to you. You don’t have to use the stock location every time. What I want to show you is how to make these wires blend into the engine bay.

For this project I used a 4 gauge wire that I used before on a past project. Read that as “free”. TechFlex Clean Cut (1/4” for 4 the gauge), heat shrink (1/2”), and various ring terminals.





Measure the amount of wire you need and cut the wire to length. Installing the ring terminal is up to you. Crimp it or solder it. And then slide the TechFlex on.




Use the heat shrink to secure the TechFlex and cover the ring terminal joint.


Slide the rubber protector over the end.




Look at these slick wires.




Then go install it.

Here is a little more info:

TechFlex Clean Cut 1/4” - 10' for $5.30
3/1 heatshrink tubing 1/2" - 1' for $1.35
4 AWG black power wire - 1' for $1.95
Gold Ring 4 AWG 3/8" - 2 Pair for $4.24

And some links:
https://www.wirecare.com/
http://www.buyheatshrink.com/html/index4.html
http://www.parts-express.com/home.cf...TOKEN=60855882

[TipsZ]

Would it be better to solder that end prior to shrink wrapping it?

[Ivoidwarranty]

That's up to you. I did put that in there somewhere if you go back and read the whole thing (I know pictures tell the story just as well). "Installing the ring terminal is up to you. Crimp it or solder it." Depending on the terminal I'm using, I will do either/or or both.

[nogoodname]

which crimper tool did you use?? need a big crimper for that size wire??

[Ivoidwarranty]

I used a wire crimper.

[nogoodname]

surprised BB didnt flip out on you on another forum...ha

[Ivoidwarranty]

Yeah, I'll PM you about that...

[nogoodname]

must be interesting, thanks for the info

i might use it

[Liquid_G]

.. doublepost.. damn server lag

[Liquid_G]

Originally Posted by nogoodname

which crimper tool did you use?? need a big crimper for that size wire??

A tabletop Vice works good for those big *** connectors too..

Nice work Ivoidwarranty

[CBRich]

Very nice. Those look super clean. And don't forget you can reroute your new wires any way you want to improve the look of the engine bay.

[SigPapa226]

I would recommend using ring lugs that are closed at the ring end where the wire goes. That way when it is crimped and shrink taped there are no exposed wire ends to absorb moisture & eventually corrode. If your local car parts shop does not have the closed end connectors, go to your local boat shop & get them there.

[SigPapa226]

PS - If you wish to upgrade the wire, use the same size Marine wire. The wire is tinned to minimize corrosion.

Good post - you can usually make these a lot cheaper than you can buy them.

[1slow370]

Also if you solder the ends right no need to worry about corrosion as the solder will creep back to the insulation. also keeps crimps from coming lose, and improves conductivity. You can also buy closed end connectors prelined with soldier so u just shove the wire in hit it with a pencil torch and it's done with no need to crimp.

[ChrisSlicks]

You should never solder high current connections, but for these ground connections you would be fine.