Rear wheel hop

kenchan · 08-26-2014, 11:25 AM

not that i suffer wheel hop, with all this talk about that one rear diff mount bushing issues, i actually went under my Z and G last night to check on the rear bushing. wheew...no leaks. lol

AlexRaymond19 · 08-26-2014, 12:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

not that i suffer wheel hop, with all this talk about that one rear diff mount bushing issues, i actually went under my Z and G last night to check on the rear bushing. wheew...no leaks. lol

Let me tell you, that ish is nasty... when I was drilling a hole through it it exploded and it looked like I killed an alien

kenchan · 08-26-2014, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexRaymond19

Let me tell you, that ish is nasty... when I was drilling a hole through it it exploded and it looked like I killed an alien

lol!

i think im going to have a speedshop do mine if mine ever explodes.

will swap the front ones too while they're at it.

critical · 08-26-2014, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JARblue

Cold tires were definitely not helping...

And I hope the engine wasn't cold if you were revving high RPMs...

There is some good info on wheel hop (have to sort through some garbage though) in a variety of threads on the forum, so you might want to do some reading as well. All I can say is I get wheel hop when I give the car too much throttle too early on launch. I control it by managing my throttle input better. I would hope with your recent mods that warm tires will virtually eliminate this, but if not, try backing off the throttle a hair when the wheel hop occurs.

i have gears and the 7at. full throttle, no wheel hop. i can't really launch the car but I redline 1st in like 2 seconds. don't know the meaning of laying off the throttle in our car :P

Quote:

Originally Posted by kenchan

lol!

i think im going to have a speedshop do mine if mine ever explodes.

will swap the front ones too while they're at it.

i'll do it. come down to sd

kenchan · 08-26-2014, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by critical

i have gears and the 7at. full throttle, no wheel hop. i can't really launch the car but I redline 1st in like 2 seconds. don't know the meaning of laying off the throttle in our car :P

i'll do it. come down to sd

is the rear diff bushing damage more prone to MT cars?

i have no hop in my MT's harder launchs, but then, im not smoking my tires either.

thanks for the offer, btw.

AlexRaymond19 · 08-26-2014, 01:01 PM

Pretty sure I put it on right. Thicker bushing on the top with the top hats, thinner ones on bottom with that thick heavy washer.

Is it possible to tighten them with the exhaust on? I never really looked when I put it back on (at work now, otherwise I'd stick a mirror down there and look)

AlexRaymond19 · 08-26-2014, 08:02 PM

I honestly didn't notice a difference at all. Hard to hear anything over headers test pipes and non res fi exhaust...

Super Werty · 08-26-2014, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexRaymond19

I honestly didn't notice a difference at all. Hard to hear anything over headers test pipes and non res fi exhaust...

I was referring to the SPL solid aluminum bushings. They are supposedly much louder than poly-urethane like whitelines

AlexRaymond19 · 08-26-2014, 08:08 PM

There is another method of removing the center bushing... Kind of a pain, but if done right would prove to be a little easier.

Basically you stack the 2 bottom washers together and line it up with the back side of the bushing (it fits perfectly) then you need a huge socket or a piece of pipe big enough for the whole bushing to fit into. You basically go to the hardware store and buy a high grade nut and bolt and and put it together, tighten the nut (slowly to reduce heat, it will break otherwise) and the bushing will begin to slide out.

It could be time consuming, but a lot cleaner than using the air hack saw

1slow370 · 08-26-2014, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexRaymond19

There is another method of removing the center bushing... Kind of a pain, but if done right would prove to be a little easier.

Basically you stack the 2 bottom washers together and line it up with the back side of the bushing (it fits perfectly) then you need a huge socket or a piece of pipe big enough for the whole bushing to fit into. You basically go to the hardware store and buy a high grade nut and bolt and and put it together, tighten the nut (slowly to reduce heat, it will break otherwise) and the bushing will begin to slide out.

It could be time consuming, but a lot cleaner than using the air hack saw

this worked on the 350 but on the 370 it is hit and miss because our subframes are made of steel theres were aluminum so the press fit and the corosion welding make the 370 bushing much harder to remove

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

AlexRaymond19 · 08-27-2014, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1slow370

this worked on the 350 but on the 370 it is hit and miss because our subframes are made of steel theres were aluminum so the press fit and the corosion welding make the 370 bushing much harder to remove

Sent from my HTCONE using Tapatalk

Ahh, good to know. Mine was pretty Damn rusty when I pulled it out

L33T Z34 · 08-27-2014, 01:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AlexRaymond19

Hey all.

I recently installed a quaife diff, and whileline diff bushings.

This morning when I was leaving for work, I decided to lay a strip when I was pulling out of the driveway. I got some pretty intense wheel hop. It was about 60 degrees out and obviously the tires were not warm yet. Did that have something to do with it? Only other mods I have in that department are swift springs and 11 inch re11's in the rear.

Hopefully I didn't install something wrong...

Thoughts?

And I wasn't laying a strip to be a jerk, just wanted to test the new diff ;-)

U're gonna need more than just stiky tyr3z and a Queeef! I still jump 'em on FIRST & SEC0ND w/SOLID SPL rear diif m0untz, OSG Supa LOK, SPL TRAXshn bars, Y0K0 AD08Rz, L0L!...Basically IRS is Nherent to JUMP! My nex+ m0dz r the SPL rear camb3r linx & rear M0n0Ball Bush'nz...mayb3 that will k33p the WHEEL H0P @ BAY

kenchan · 08-27-2014, 12:42 PM

i sense competition amoungst you guys.

AlexRaymond19 · 08-29-2014, 08:03 PM

So i torqued it down to spec. It was way loose. I can feel the clutch chatter a bit more, and it's a little louder.

Laid a 100 foot patch of rubber with 0 wheel hop!! Happy camper.

Now if I could just figure out where my 4k rpm exhaust rattle is coming from...
It only happens under load, I can't reproduce it parked

08-26-2014, 11:25 AM	#1 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141522	not that i suffer wheel hop, with all this talk about that one rear diff mount bushing issues, i actually went under my Z and G last night to check on the rear bushing. wheew...no leaks. lol AlexRaymond19 likes this.

08-26-2014, 01:01 PM	#6 (permalink)
AlexRaymond19 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maine Posts: 771 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	Pretty sure I put it on right. Thicker bushing on the top with the top hats, thinner ones on bottom with that thick heavy washer. Is it possible to tighten them with the exhaust on? I never really looked when I put it back on (at work now, otherwise I'd stick a mirror down there and look) __________________ 2010 370Z Touring MT \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Momentum\| Z1 \| Fast Intentions \| Advant Garde \| RE11 \| Swift \| SPC \| Quaife \| Whiteline \| Evo R \| 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang

08-26-2014, 08:02 PM	#7 (permalink)
AlexRaymond19 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maine Posts: 771 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	I honestly didn't notice a difference at all. Hard to hear anything over headers test pipes and non res fi exhaust... __________________ 2010 370Z Touring MT \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Momentum\| Z1 \| Fast Intentions \| Advant Garde \| RE11 \| Swift \| SPC \| Quaife \| Whiteline \| Evo R \| 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang

08-26-2014, 08:08 PM	#9 (permalink)
AlexRaymond19 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maine Posts: 771 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	There is another method of removing the center bushing... Kind of a pain, but if done right would prove to be a little easier. Basically you stack the 2 bottom washers together and line it up with the back side of the bushing (it fits perfectly) then you need a huge socket or a piece of pipe big enough for the whole bushing to fit into. You basically go to the hardware store and buy a high grade nut and bolt and and put it together, tighten the nut (slowly to reduce heat, it will break otherwise) and the bushing will begin to slide out. It could be time consuming, but a lot cleaner than using the air hack saw __________________ 2010 370Z Touring MT \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Momentum\| Z1 \| Fast Intentions \| Advant Garde \| RE11 \| Swift \| SPC \| Quaife \| Whiteline \| Evo R \| 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang

08-29-2014, 08:03 PM	#14 (permalink)
AlexRaymond19 Track Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Maine Posts: 771 Drives: 2010 Nissan 370z Rep Power: 16	So i torqued it down to spec. It was way loose. I can feel the clutch chatter a bit more, and it's a little louder. Laid a 100 foot patch of rubber with 0 wheel hop!! Happy camper. Now if I could just figure out where my 4k rpm exhaust rattle is coming from... It only happens under load, I can't reproduce it parked __________________ 2010 370Z Touring MT \| Stillen \| Motordyne \| Momentum\| Z1 \| Fast Intentions \| Advant Garde \| RE11 \| Swift \| SPC \| Quaife \| Whiteline \| Evo R \| 322RWHP 259ft-lb Mustang

08-27-2014, 12:42 PM	#13 (permalink)
kenchan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: N/A Posts: 76,801 Drives: N/A Rep Power: 141522	i sense competition amoungst you guys.

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