OFF Topic.

It's close enough
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3748611a.jpg
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8aabf328.jpg
http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/...ps80407fd8.jpg

Lol I'm just making this...

And paying $8 instead of $72. The whole topic start though was asking if I install now what will my suspension do. But you answered that so ill either wait or just ghetto measure toe and camber like I said and hope the bolts with no adjustment don't give me insane outta wack numbers.

O nice. This arms a full sleeve just not filled in yet :(

Yep, just not paying $72



Correct. Once I get the arms, the adjustable bolts are going bye bye so they can't slip under a hard G load.


Read right above

Well I just measured toe. Not ideal, 1. Because I used a tape measure and 2. The only way to measure was not in the middle of the wheel. I got only about 1/4 way up the tire. However I did get a rear measurement of about 68 1.5/16th and a front measurement of 68. Therefore the rear tires are toed in 1.5/16th of an inch. That's factory yes?

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...pse6563619.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...psacf6c44b.jpg

Well I'm inpatient so I decided to see what would change by installing the toe bolts. To my surprise the numbers didn't do what I was thinking they'd do.

Before install...
Driver camber -1.9
Passenger cam -1.4
Rear toe 0.094"

After install
Driver camber -1.8
Passenger cam -1.3
Rear toe 0.094"

Basically nothing happened which is awesome! Because 1. I don't need to take them off and 2. Everything's in spec.

Now I was scared because first I just installed the passenger side and measured and the toe was at 0.25" which is out of spec. I thought "o great, after the drivers side ill be 0.5" or something. But doing the drives pulled it right back where it was. Now I did look at the factory marks and it looked like the eccentric bolts were straight up and down so they weren't giving any adjustment anyhow. Later ill tackle the camber bolts.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ps36782b2e.jpg

you need to slot the subframe and drill the washers with offset holes.

So uhh what sizes and offsets did you end up going with to make RPF1's fit?

Huh? Why?

Whole point of this was to have zero chance of movement from those locations.

10.5 +15 rear and 9.5 +45 front with a 20mm spacer.

How tight is the clearance between the caliper and wheel in the front with that spacer?

Think you could have pulled it off with +38 and a 15mm? That's 2mm less clearance.

I *think* he was trying to tell you how you could adjust the setup using the lockout plates, without using eccentric bolts... He missed the part about your alignment being fine and you planning on getting adjustable arms anyway, I guess.

Yes I could have. Odd thing is with the 20mm I have like zero clearance. But I put the 15mm on, held the rim flat on it and spun and nothing hit.

How would u adjust toe with a lockout plate and no eccentric bolt?

By making the hole not round... slotted, in other words. See what I mean?