Help me pick my Rotors and pad (Akebono stock replacement) + Motive Bleeder & fluid

roy'sz · 06-02-2013, 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparky

Sorry I don't follow, I didn't spend any money so I haven't wasted any.
My vibrations and shaking are gone, brakes feel good, rotors and pads are bedded in with a nice coating on the rotors.
If they aren't true then why are they now smooth as butter?

so you evenly sanded the rotors? did you do a total initial run out test to see if they are even? They may be smooth as butter now, but I seriously doubt that they will last after a few serious heat cycles. I don't see how using a orbital sander on any components that are rotating and are already set can benefit your braking system. Being that I have worked in numerous machine shops I can tell you what you did doesn't make any mechanical sense...just sayin.

sparky · 06-02-2013, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz

so you evenly sanded the rotors? did you do a total initial run out test to see if they are even? They may be smooth as butter now, but I seriously doubt that they will last after a few serious heat cycles. I don't see how using a orbital sander on any components that are rotating and are already set can benefit your braking system. Being that I have worked in numerous machine shops I can tell you what you did doesn't make any mechanical sense...just sayin.

I didn't remove any metal and an orbital sander doesn't really spin at high speed. It just basically removed all the pad deposits and all the glaze off the face of the pads. Obviously removing actual metal this way would result in an uneven surface, which only turning would restore. I finished the rotors with scotchbrite too.
If it doesn't last then I'll look into new rotors and pads but no cost except for time means I had nothing to lose.
I put in a full day of spirited driving today and so far so good.

roy'sz · 06-02-2013, 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparky

I didn't remove any metal and an orbital sander doesn't really spin at high speed. It just basically removed all the pad deposits and all the glaze off the face of the pads. Obviously removing actual metal this way would result in an uneven surface, which only turning would restore. I finished the rotors with scotchbrite too.
If it doesn't last then I'll look into new rotors and pads but no cost except for time means I had nothing to lose.
I put in a full day of spirited driving today and so far so good.

well its worth a shot in the dark. I had read this while on my cellphone and I thought you had just bought new rotors and I was like WTF? I still think you will have issues. 80grit it some hard stuff and being that what you did isn't a machined process where it is even then that is what I am worried most. Sand paper does take metal off, I use it to polish bearing journal fits all the time. At the same point we aren't talking much but when you have a small amount missing and if it isn't even then you run the risk of having a imbalance. May not be noticeable now but will be later. I would stick with oem rotors for the most part and maybe upgrade pads if you aren't tracking it.

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