Balance check the tires.

Tires are fine. Rebalanced already, anyway.

New pads installed. Nissan dealership did the work gratis. They also said that the pads were already glazed. These pads were shaved by them about 500 miles ago when they installed them on my new Z1 slotted rotors. OEM Sport pads...they are crap.

The brake pedal feels a lot firmer and braking more responsive and linear with the stoptechs. I will wait until after my trip in a few weeks to Fayetteville, AR (the App's are fun!) to say whether or not the issue is gone, but it should be.

Are you bedding in your brake pads properly? Also if you are still glazing pads the piston might not be retracting all the way (replace caliper). Every now and then when I get off the highway I'll take the temp of my rotors with a cheapy temp gun just to see if a caliper is dragging. Every car forum seems to have complaints about warping rotors, when the the reality it is rare for the rotor to warp, but very easy to glaze or deposit pad material unevenly on the rotor due to poor or no pad bed-in. I've even had very good luck rebedding pads with 15k miles on them.

So i'm kind of having the same problem as ImportConvert lately, that when I break at high speeds it starts shaking pretty bad. I've changed pads and rotors on other cars, but usually just becuase I notice that the pads are low not because of shaking. My pads seem to still have some meat on them so should I just have them turned first and go from there?

Same problem here. Doubtful about rebedding curing this so I'll probably get the rotors turned. I'm a little surprised with only 8K on them.

It is 99% of the time your pads. I changed my pads and rotors and have 0 issues. Bed them in properly guys. go to 60 mph and decelerate quickly, without activating ABS, to 10mph. Do that 10 times without stopping. Then after the last time drive around for about 15 minutes at about 30 or above to cool. Then repeat the process one more time. You will notice that you will "grip" more when you start, then begin to fade about half way through, then "grip" tightly again toward the end of the set. After the last time drive around at about 30 again for about 15 minutes to cool, then do 2 very aggressive declarations from 70 to 10. Roll for another couple minutes to cool and you're done. That is how I have always bed brakes and I have never had a single issue with any car.

Thanks, so you think i'd be good with just switching the pads?

oh yea. I would try scorched pads too. If its used rotors, start with 2 heavy stops to "clean" off the old stuff BEFORE starting the bedding process.


BTW my post count is now 370. what up.

Cool thanks:xmastup:

My rotors finally came in. I decided on EBC slotted rotors, and red stuff pads.

http://www.the370z.com/members/voice...-slotted-1.jpg

So i sanded my rotors and pads with 80 grit on an orbital sander and then followed the bedding procedure and problem cured. :tup:
We'll see how long it lasts.

I'm liking mine so far.

On the main topic:
Drilled rotors aren't that great from what I know. Mainly because the drilling breaks up the metallurgy chains. They have to be cast that way to be good. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

worst thing you could have done. Now they are not true. Just wasted some cash...congrats! :tiphat:

Sorry I don't follow, I didn't spend any money so I haven't wasted any.
My vibrations and shaking are gone, brakes feel good, rotors and pads are bedded in with a nice coating on the rotors.
If they aren't true then why are they now smooth as butter?