Nissan 370Z Forum - Help me pick my Rotors and pad (Akebono stock replacement) + Motive Bleeder & fluid

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- - Help me pick my Rotors and pad (Akebono stock replacement) + Motive Bleeder & fluid (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/60836-help-me-pick-my-rotors-pad-akebono-stock-replacement-motive-bleeder-fluid.html)

Help me pick my Rotors and pad (Akebono stock replacement) + Motive Bleeder & fluid

So my stock AKEBONO rotors are pretty much shot. Horrible vibration at higher speed (during braking) clearly reflects front warped rotors. So I have been looking for replacements. I'm not looking for anything crazy. I'm basically looking for similar or slightly better braking than stock sports pack. I had no complaint of stopping power of the sports package brakes. I should mention, I DO daily drive the car. So quietness is a must. So, here are some of the rotors I am looking to buy. Please let me hear your feedback or personal experience with them

Option A Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor $104.00

http://www.tirerack.com/images/brake...stop_rotor.jpg

Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor

Quote:

Utilizing the same split core symmetric molding process used by Original Equipment manufacturers, Centric’s High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotors dissipate heat efficiently and provide better stopping power especially in repeat stopping situations. Containing an advanced metallurgy containing proprietary Molybdenum and Chromium alloys, the rotors resist cracking during high performance use or repeat stop situations. The alloys also greatly reduce the pad squeal associated with higher friction, European-style brake pad compounds and increases the friction couple to improve brake performance and stopping power.

The Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor features a double disc ground finish that virtually eliminates run out and any disc thickness variation (DTV) issues. The non-directional, double disc ground finish also provides improved rotor and pad break-in while a directional vane design improves airflow and cooling. Rotors are mill-balanced, as well, to ensure smooth operation regardless of speed.

Centric High Carbon Plain 125 Series Rotor Features:

Premium black E-coating finish to combat corrosion on the rotor hat and between the cooling vanes
Center split castings for increased strength and stability
Superior cooling fin designs
Double disc ground finish
100% fully machined finish including rotor hats
100% inspected and mill-balanced for smooth operation regardless of speed
Lateral run out held to 0.002” or less
Meet or exceed rigidity quality specifications, including cooling vane designs

A center split casting increases strength and stability, but to further promote longevity, the rotors feature Centric’s exclusive black E-coating finish. Engineered to withstand 400 hours of salt spray testing without corroding, it is applied on all non-friction surfaces to prevent premature rusting.

E-Coating Advantages:

Uniform coating thickness over all areas including sharp corners, recesses and areas that are hard to reach with spray painting
Nontoxic and water-based paint material
Approximately 95% utilization of paint with no overspray, drip or drain losses
Complete paint coverage — no touchup of paint ever required

or

Option BStopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor $97.00

http://www.tirerack.com/images/brake...illrotor_m.jpg
SportStop Drilled Rotor

Quote:

With an internal vane structure identical to stock rotors, the one-piece StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotor is a direct replacement rotor that fits Original Equipment calipers. Its drilled design helps remove unwanted debris between the pad and disc resulting in increased bite and improved stopping power. This same drilled look for rear brakes can help match the aesthetics of a front big brake kit, too.

Premium black E-coating finish to combat corrosion on the rotor hat and between the cooling vanes
Castings have important O.E. details including extractor and set screw holes
Superior cooling fin designs
Double disc ground finish
100% fully machined finish including rotor hats
100% inspected and mill-balanced
Lateral runout held to 0.002” or less
Meet or exceed rigid quality specifications, including cooling vane designs

StopTech SportStop Drilled Rotors’ finish helps prevent glazing of the pads to improve dry/wet braking performance. All rotors are finished with a durable black coating on the non-swept areas to prevent unsightly corrosion, as well.

E-Coating Advantages:

Uniform coating thickness over all areas including sharp corners, recesses and areas that would be hard to reach with spray painting
Paint material is water-based and nontoxic
Approximately 95% utilization of paint with no overspray, drip or drain losses
Complete paint coverage – no touchup ever required

I don't really care about whether it's drilled or not because if anything, drilled rotor are prone to crack under severe condition. But again, I daily drive the Z. So not too many chances of that happening. So tell me which rotor I should get or for similar price if something else is out there, let me know.

PADs:
Since noise is a concern, I'm looking into ceramic brake pads. These are some of the finalists. If you have something else to suggest in similar price range, I'm always open to suggestions :tup:

A. Hawk Performance Ceramic Pads

http://www.tirerack.com/images/brake...b453z585_m.jpg

Quote:

Hawk Performance introduces a unique ceramic composite formulation specifically developed to meet the ultra-low dust and low noise attributes of Original Equipment ceramic brake pads while maintaining the high friction levels professional brake tuners have grown to expect from Hawk Performance. Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads do not compromise performance and offer a solution to many consumers' number one complaint: DUST! Performance Ceramic Brake Pads also feature a fade resistant, linear friction profile that allows your ABS brake system to work more effectively.

Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads — Quiet, Clean, Safe and Fast Stopping.

Key Features & Benefits of Hawk Performance Ceramic Brake Pads

Ultra-low dust
Improved braking over O.E.
Stable friction output
Extremely quiet
Extended pad life
Increased rotor life

Brake pads are wear items and as such, should be inspected regularly and replaced as necessary. Pads should be replaced when approximately 1/8th inch of friction material remains on the steel backing plate.

At $127 for front pads, these are a bit out of my range. But they look very promising. I'm tempted to give them try even though they are on a little expansive side.

B. Akebono ProACT Ceramic Pads

http://www.tirerack.com/images/brake...c_act787_m.jpg

Quote:

Akebono's advanced ProACT™ Ceramic Disc Pads, Original Equipment on many of North America's most popular cars, light trucks and sport utility vehicles, are ideal OEM replacement components and the perfect performance option for drivers looking to upgrade from conventional pads.

Akebono Ceramic Technology (ACT) helps to reduce the brake noise (squealing and grinding), vibration and harshness (NVH) problems associated with some aftermarket brake products. Ceramic technology also produces ultra-low dusting for cleaner wheels and tires and fosters minimal wear on the brake rotor.

Other advantages of ProACT™ ceramic brake pads include:

Unrivaled “initial effectiveness” with no required break-in period
Ultra-quiet, positive and smooth braking performance
High resistance to fade with fast recovery
More consistent pedal feel for driver confidence

NVH control is further optimized by the fact that ProACT™ Ceramic Disc Pads are designed for specific models, as well as powder-coat finished and harmonically damped. All Akebono ceramic disc pad formulations are also asbestos-free.

These I'm assuming the stock pads at half the cost of the Hawks. I did saw Akebono Euro that fits our Z. but wasn't sure if anyone tried them here. Should I just get these?

Motive Bleeder:
I also want to drain my brake fluid. Since I bought the Z, I haven't changed it. Dealer wants too much money :rolleyes: so I decided, why not do it myself?

I stumbled into a problem when I went to Motive site. Take a look at the application guide

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1348184600

0107 regular bleeder and 0117 black label bleeder

Which one should I get? Anyone bought their bleeder from motive?

I'm guessing this is the wrong type for our car?
http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1348184600

since this is how our cap looks?
http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1348184919

Anyone who bought one, feel free post your model no.

finally, synthetic brake fluid:
After reading this thread, I came to conclusion either Ap racing 5.1 or Motul dot 5.1 or ATE super blue
What do you guys recommend? I'm not tracking my car it's almost winter here and even if I track, I'll probably bleed the fluid to something more track worthy prior to event. So, for everyday driving, which one do you recommend?

thanks in advance :tup:

how many miles are on your car? you might not need rotor replacements yet (unless they're really thin or have deep grooves in them).

AK, give Z1 a call and get a set of their rotors for Stock replacement. I've got their slotted/crossdrilled and am pleased. They're cheap, and good for whatever you need. :tup: Plus they offer package deals with pads/fluid too.

get some slotted rotors (not drilled please), and throw some ebc red stuff pads with some motul rbf600. dont use a DOT 5 fluid. from what ive read here, its not a good idea for our brake systems

zspeed has some awesome prices:

Brake Pads and Rotors

Centric rotors. Avoid drilled rotors.
No experience with the pads so I'll leave that. I love my Carbotech Bobcats/1521s
Ford 3 prong style bleeder 0107/0117 is correct.
Super Blue of those listed (It's cheapest and works fine track or street). Don't use DOT 5.1 fluid.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sig11 (Post 1925793)

Centric rotors. Avoid drilled rotors.
No experience with the pads so I'll leave that. I love my Carbotech Bobcats/1521s
Ford 3 prong style bleeder 0107/0117 is correct.
Super Blue of those listed (It's cheapest and works fine track or street). Don't use DOT 5.1 fluid.

same

hey ak i bought mine from motive, it is a solid kit. I think it would be great though if somebody here could manufacture a bleeder cap for the clutch as motive does not carry on for the clutch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by XwChriswX (Post 1925586)

+1 I got five track days and 10k mikes out of mine. I'm pretty hard on them. Very impressed. Slotted only though.

Dude AK did you even use the search button? :p

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz (Post 1926156)

hey ak i bought mine from motive, it is a solid kit. I think it would be great though if somebody here could manufacture a bleeder cap for the clutch as motive does not carry on for the clutch.

i thought i saw in the manual NOT to use power bleeders for the clutch.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron (Post 1926617)

Dude AK did you even use the search button? :p

:iagree:

5psi won't damage the csc or blow the hydraulic line. Just saying....

Quote:

Originally Posted by sig11 (Post 1925793)

Centric rotors. Avoid drilled rotors.
No experience with the pads so I'll leave that. I love my Carbotech Bobcats/1521s
Ford 3 prong style bleeder 0107/0117 is correct.
Super Blue of those listed (It's cheapest and works fine track or street). Don't use DOT 5.1 fluid.

Why not use DOT 5.1 ...... I would have thought don't use DOT 5 which is silicone-based and prone to frothing in an ABS system with the predictable outcome.

DOT 5.1 is not to be confused with DOT 5.1 - as it is an ester-based fluid with a (relatively high dry boiling point).

As with all non-silicone based fluids, they need to be flushed and replaced periodically (I do mine annually).

Most armed services do use silicone-based fluids in their vehicles (I know the Australian Army does) since it is not hydroscopic (won;t absorb water) BUT it is not compatible with automotive ABS systems.

So I would be using DOT 5.1 - even in a DD, and schedule a flush and change of fluid every 24 months as a maximum

Doesnt stoptech rotors leave that hideous rust ring?

Ever look into.DBA or EBC rotors?

I could be wrong, but I believe the '13 Nismo's are coming with R35 brake fluid. Isn't R35 brake fluid Dot 5?

Quote:

Originally Posted by chops (Post 1925624)

http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...50048919_n.jpg

EBC Ultimax sport rotors
EBC Redstuff pads

I have been running these all summer, track days included and they absolutely rock. Almost no dust at all and have not heard a peep out of them yet.

EBC Brake Thread

Whats wrong with drilled rotors?

If you don't track the car, it shouldn't crack.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Amuse370z (Post 1927694)

Whats wrong with drilled rotors?

If you don't track the car, it shouldn't crack.

nothing, but knowing something that is mainly for looks cant handle certain temps makes me not want them. (hope that made sense)

Bringing this thread back -

My Akebonos are also toast, heavy wobble when they heat up. The dealer confirmed that they are warped today. Im getting the two front rotors replaced via nissan with new pads. Ive never had brake fade, despite beating my brakes pretty good, I've just had the wobble. The stopping power is also extremely impressive so i decided to stay stock. Although if i decide to track this summer i will look into a higher temp fluid.

AK did you get new rotors/pads? How are they compared to stock if there's a difference?

Definitely stick with slotted rotors, don't want to move into drilled rotors, drilled rotors are only for looks, they serve no purpose to heat dissipation/cooling. Pads, if you go with the Hawk Performance Ceramics you may be a bit disappointed in their lack of bite, however they are an ultra-low dust pad.

-Nick

Quote:

Originally Posted by kns brakes (Post 2113876)

Definitely stick with slotted rotors, don't want to move into drilled rotors, drilled rotors are only for looks, they serve no purpose to heat dissipation/cooling. Pads, if you go with the Hawk Performance Ceramics you may be a bit disappointed in their lack of bite, however they are an ultra-low dust pad.

-Nick

And their utter destruction of your rotors, lol.

Good thread. I only street drive my car. Pads are fine, Rotors warped for the third time in less that 20k miles. Nissan uses some **** Rotors, just sayin. Going with z1 slotted only.

I have 51k on my car with no warped rotors...sounds like some people don't know how to brake properly. Park you car with hot rotors=warped rotors over time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert (Post 2277778)

Good thread. I only street drive my car. Pads are fine, Rotors warped for the third time in less that 20k miles. Nissan uses some **** Rotors, just sayin. Going with z1 slotted only.

whaaaa?:confused:

Some people obviously do not understand how to brake correctly...

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert (Post 2277778)

Good thread. I only street drive my car. Pads are fine, Rotors warped for the third time in less that 20k miles. Nissan uses some **** Rotors, just sayin. Going with z1 slotted only.

You must be heating them up then running the car through a pond or something. I just did the brakes on my sister in laws Scion and she had about 50k miles on that set.

Rotors hardly ever actually "warp"
If you are having repeated issues with the brakes shaking you need to make sure they are installed correctly, A rotor installed with just a few thousandths of run-out will quickly wear flat spots on the surface causing it to start shaking again in short time.

Basically if run-out is not checked and corrected when the rotor is installed it's not being done correctly and ANY rotor will do the same thing eventually.

Nissan rotors are actually pretty good and few aftermarkets compare to the quality.

Probably already decided but this is what I was leaning towards.. High Carbon Blades from EBC.. :tiphat:

EBC High Carbon Blade Brake Rotors | EBC Blade Rotors

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 2279126)

Sorry for not knowing...What's a run-out and when does it happens? Tnx

Run out is a measurement that is taken with a perfectly level table and a depth guage to determine the eveness that a rotor is machined to. In lamens terms to see if your rotor is true or is slightly wabbled. They are checked prior to shipping to parts stores.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dzel (Post 2278962)

You must be heating them up then running the car through a pond or something. I just did the brakes on my sister in laws Scion and she had about 50k miles on that set.

Nope. This car has been a PITA from day 1. Well, actually 10K miles. Next week it's going back to the dealership again. I just got the slotted Z1 rotors on it last week, and they shaved the brake pads because it was still shaking very noticeably. I'm replacing the pads now, 300 miles later, because I can feel, very slightly, that it's starting it up again and it can only get worse from here.

Stopping smoothly. My 1988 mustang 5.0 did it better.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 2279126)

They turned them twice. The third time I replaced them with the Z1 slotted per my above post. They wore in evenly as best I can see. Shaking again, ever so-slightly a few hundred miles later, now. I think it's the crappy pads and am replacing them, per my above post, again. They said they were glazed and shaved them and it made a huge difference, when they did the Z1 rotor install.

If yiur wheel is shaking the rotors are warped again

Quote:

Originally Posted by ImportConvert (Post 2307799)

Are they turning them with a "On-Car lathe" or off the car? They need to be turned with a ON-Car lathe to be perfectly true to the hub. Unless they are 0 run out when installed this is the only way to make the perfect and prevent future issues.

None of my other cars ever needed any special nonsense. Just carry the rotors down town and have em turned. Worked fine every time. If this car needs supercar maintenance, it needs a lot more incentive for me to own it. I think its just pads, this time. Nissan apparently uses bad ones. Again, I'm used to American cars, so maybe this is an import thing. If this doesn't fix it, ill just deal with it, shaking wheel and all, but ill never buy another Nissan, that's for sure. This is the shittiest car I have ever owned that was less than a decade old, much less, new.