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-   -   Help me pick my Rotors and pad (Akebono stock replacement) + Motive Bleeder & fluid (http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspension/60836-help-me-pick-my-rotors-pad-akebono-stock-replacement-motive-bleeder-fluid.html)

Voice59 06-02-2013 02:41 PM

What exactly IS "bedding" brakes? Will new pads not work correctly or become faulty shortly after installation because of not bedding them?

And if possible you can be as technical as possible. If in your explanation you could explain how to do it and what exactly it does that'd be great.

roy'sz 06-02-2013 03:52 PM

bedding brakes is to get the pad to be equally plained to the rotors. All rotors and pads are machined to be virtually flat so that when the pad mates with the rotor there isn't a high or low spot as the rotor passes inbetween the pads.

Voice59 06-02-2013 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz (Post 2344619)
bedding brakes is to get the pad to be equally plained to the rotors. All rotors and pads are machined to be virtually flat so that when the pad mates with the rotor there isn't a high or low spot as the rotor passes inbetween the pads.


So you have to do a series of hard braking to ensure that?

roy'sz 06-02-2013 03:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparky (Post 2344320)
Sorry I don't follow, I didn't spend any money so I haven't wasted any.
My vibrations and shaking are gone, brakes feel good, rotors and pads are bedded in with a nice coating on the rotors.
If they aren't true then why are they now smooth as butter?

so you evenly sanded the rotors? did you do a total initial run out test to see if they are even? They may be smooth as butter now, but I seriously doubt that they will last after a few serious heat cycles. I don't see how using a orbital sander on any components that are rotating and are already set can benefit your braking system. Being that I have worked in numerous machine shops I can tell you what you did doesn't make any mechanical sense...just sayin.

roy'sz 06-02-2013 04:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Voice59 (Post 2344625)
So you have to do a series of hard braking to ensure that?

Yes. You can find it by searching online. I know baer does have a procedure for theirs. Most of the time if you so a couple of hard brakes it will seat. Most of it is done over a longer period of dd. For the most part if you have new rotors and new pads it isn't as noticeable if you had turned rotors that still have a little bit of a groove in them or if you are just doing a pad job.

roy'sz 06-02-2013 04:02 PM

How to Bed-In Brake Pads

Voice59 06-02-2013 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz (Post 2344631)

Much thanks. I'll have to look it up when I get home. Just got blocked by the computer I'm trying to use.

sparky 06-02-2013 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by roy'sz (Post 2344626)
so you evenly sanded the rotors? did you do a total initial run out test to see if they are even? They may be smooth as butter now, but I seriously doubt that they will last after a few serious heat cycles. I don't see how using a orbital sander on any components that are rotating and are already set can benefit your braking system. Being that I have worked in numerous machine shops I can tell you what you did doesn't make any mechanical sense...just sayin.

I didn't remove any metal and an orbital sander doesn't really spin at high speed. It just basically removed all the pad deposits and all the glaze off the face of the pads. Obviously removing actual metal this way would result in an uneven surface, which only turning would restore. I finished the rotors with scotchbrite too.
If it doesn't last then I'll look into new rotors and pads but no cost except for time means I had nothing to lose.
I put in a full day of spirited driving today and so far so good. :driving:

roy'sz 06-02-2013 06:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sparky (Post 2344821)
I didn't remove any metal and an orbital sander doesn't really spin at high speed. It just basically removed all the pad deposits and all the glaze off the face of the pads. Obviously removing actual metal this way would result in an uneven surface, which only turning would restore. I finished the rotors with scotchbrite too.
If it doesn't last then I'll look into new rotors and pads but no cost except for time means I had nothing to lose.
I put in a full day of spirited driving today and so far so good. :driving:

well its worth a shot in the dark. I had read this while on my cellphone and I thought you had just bought new rotors and I was like WTF? I still think you will have issues. 80grit it some hard stuff and being that what you did isn't a machined process where it is even then that is what I am worried most. Sand paper does take metal off, I use it to polish bearing journal fits all the time. At the same point we aren't talking much but when you have a small amount missing and if it isn't even then you run the risk of having a imbalance. May not be noticeable now but will be later. I would stick with oem rotors for the most part and maybe upgrade pads if you aren't tracking it.

Dragon_Ball_Z 03-12-2015 12:44 AM

So do stoptechs rust and ebc rotors rust? like create a rust ring around them?


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