Brake Fade a risk for first time tracker?

ChrisSlicks

Here's my recommendation for pads, take it for what it is worth.

Stock pads: good for the street but you could destroy these on track in as little as 1 session - don't ruin a perfectly good set of street pads on the track - get track pads and keep these for the street!

Track pads: These are based on my personal experience.

Good - CL Brakes or Performance Friction - These things are almost impossible to fade, wear rate is pretty good too. Do not need to be bedded as this is a sintered compound, will destroy rotors on the street.

Not bad: Hawk DTC-70 - Takes more time to warm up and can get to a fade point towards the end of a session or sooner. Fairly predictable. Difficult to match for rear pad compound.

Poor: DS-3000/DS-2500 - Very difficult to achieve a good transfer layer, and layer gets warn away quickly if operating temperature is exceeded (along with extreme wear).

I can't comment much on the Carbotech's as I haven't driven them on this car, but they felt good on the spec Miata I drove for a session (XP10/XP8).

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

cossie1600

7 marker at turn 1 at VIR? I was hitting the brakes a little bit before 5 on my Prius in the rain. The Z can easily do it in 5 if you have good tires and 4 if you have slicks.

Here is a good brake test article. The popular Carbotech is not listed there, I believe they will rank somewhere in the middle to lower middle of the test based on my experiences with some of those pads.

Island_370

I was tracking a rental Dodge Charger. 4300 pounds on 195 tires = brake early!

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Autobahn Country Club (North and South Tracks), Blackhawk Farms, Grattan, Gingerman, Mid-Ohio, Putnam Park, Road America, Sears Point, Thunderhill, VIR and "The Ring"

ChrisSlicks

I remember reading that article, however it wasn't great test data wise as the driver (and track) simply got faster as the day went on. The comments from the driver about fade etc. are more telling and more interesting than the raw lap times. If they had 2 days they should have reversed the running order and ran them again.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

cossie1600

yeah i agree, but you can see the ebc stuff is not all that, ebc is an internet favorite

ChrisSlicks

Because they are colorful probably.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

TopElement

Yeah, i like Yellowstuff so much but really wish they were Fuscia!

Not all pads are available for all applications. So often times availability dictates preference.

Is there a list of pads available for 370z sport brakes?

cossie1600

That and the Hawk HPS. Most overrated pads?

SPOHN

^ yep. Hawks suck

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cossie1600

a real race brake shop can make you anything for not much more....

brucelidat

Thanks for all the input.

I think the AMS pads will be good for me since it is my first time and I will probably be slow and cautious so I don't need something significantly better than stock other than being more fade resistant. I'm a beginner, not time attacking so i just want to have fun and be safe this time out. If I get more serious, I will probably try the xp8s for dedicated track pads. Then the AMS ones can stay on as normal street pads. I already ordered the Motul brake fluid and will be changing that before I go for sure.

I don't really know which track the course will use.

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Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

SiRay6

You're on the right track...some members who may have more experience and are probably incredibly fast/competent on track mean well when they recommend products, but some may be overkill for your driving ability.

Some track pads may not work well in the operating temps of your driving level...some are too touchy and harder to modulate for a beginner (causing you to constantly stop earlier than you intend).

Your plan sounds like a great start. Depending on which organization you're running with, usually they will indicate the configuration...like #1, #13, #25, etc. They will usually also indicate CW (clockwise) or CCW (counter clock wise). Either way, the most important fact is that you start things off slow, try and get instruction if any is provided by the organizer, try not to drive beyond your ability (trying to push harder when someone is in your rearview mirror, or trying to keep up with a faster driver).

Learn the lines, ask questions at the download meetings (if there are any), have good etiquette (always point by and only pass with point by's). Lastly, if you feel any brake fade or any issues, just pull out and inspect the car, don't keep driving/pushing the car.j

Oh yea, don't forget to do cool down laps after each session by driving around in the parking lot (BW has a big parking lot) and allow the brakes to cool before you park/stop the car. If you come out of a hot lap and park it right away, you may end up warping your rotors (ask me how I know this). Lastly, don't pull e-brake when you park after a hot lap, park the car in gear with e brake down/off.

Have fun! Let us know how those AMS pads hold up. I wish I could do a track day soon

-Ray

SPOHN

My opinion is if it's your first track event still treat it as a serious tracker. Don't half a$$ do it and don't short change it when it comes to brakes or the results will be just that. Tracking cost money. So make sure you want and can make the investment. Also consider repair cost if any thing goes wrong. I don't like to say there a such thing as a light track day. You will go fast, you will brake harder and do this repeatly for several session in a day. Protect yourself and your investment.

Brakes on the Z get hot. So SS lines, good pads(basically track pads), and fluid is a must in my book. Try not to look at it any other way except for to buy even better parts. I only state this cause I care and worry about people who track.

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brucelidat

Some other members said the ss lines didn't improve performance or safety and were mainly a feel thing. Are you saying otherwise? Just asking because I really don't know, not challenging you or anything.

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Works Emotion CR Ultimate - FI CBE w/ 18" resonators - Ecutek - eibach sways - Quaife - FI LTH w/race cats - kw v3 - spl - Topgunz SC - 488whp 398trq

SPOHN

They do improve pedal feel. But I guess you really wouldnt consider that performance. But knowing there better than the OEM soft rubber lines that are prone to flex under hard braking. Plus with all the heat it would be a matter of time. Plus there only a hundred dollar upgrade from Z1. SS lines have brass fittings and one less connection point reducing possiable leaks.

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