Anyone have luck with slotted rotors?

Guard Dad

Hi, I've been tracking a number of the brake related threads and I was wondering if Castrol SRF brake fluid would be a good choice as part of a pad and brake fluid upgrade? I know that it's really expensive but considering how much everyone is spending on brake issues it seems well worth it and the boiling-point specs are exceptional wet or dry. It would seem that it would make a significant improvement in preventing brake fluid boiling.

Any thoughts?

ChrisSlicks

It is good fluid, just you're paying an arm and a leg. I use Motul 600 or AP 600 and haven't had any boiling. I do a partial bleed of the brakes each event and check for air bubbles. I'd rather keep fresh fluid moving through the system than use super expensive stuff that gets left in there all year.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

'10Anamoly

Just saying, if your car is a DD, I would go with Motul 5.1 brake fluid. It will not absorb moisture like RBF600 and is still much better than stock. It's also less viscous which is good for ABS.

DO NOT USE DOT5 BRAKE FLUID, ONLY 5.1. 5 is a no-no!

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2013 Ford Mustang GT

374rwhp, 360rwtq SAE / GT500 Axle-Backs / Brembo Pack / Track Pack / Recaros / 6spd

Guard Dad

I was just recalling Car & Driver's retest of the Nismo where even a pad and fluid upgrade failed to prevent the fluid from boiling.

So from your experience on the track you've had no fluid related problems when using Motul 600 or AP 600 fluids? That's good news.

ResIpsa

Eventually (as your skill increases) you are going to need to add brake cooling ducts.

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The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

ChrisSlicks

It was mostly that they burned through the stock pads so quickly that they lost the pad protection layer (the pad material is an insulator). That allowed the fluid to quickly boil from the radiant heat. If you can find titanium shims that fit that will also give an extra layer of protection and help your dust seals survive more than 1 event. Brake ducts would be good too.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

ResIpsa

I only use Castrol SRF on the track. Worth every penny...

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

Guard Dad

That's my thinking, it's your brakes, you REALLY want them to work!

SRF should be a winner on the street as well, what with its very high wet boiling point. Is there any reason not to use it on the street?

I've been thinking about the brake ducts as well but it will be some time before I get serious on that issue.

Titanium shims would offer some protection for the dust seals and the brake fluid, are they available and if so where and how much?

ResIpsa

The only issue with SRF is corrosion. With stock fluid you can replace it and forget it. However, with SRF it must be flushed before 18 months (per the instructions) or you can do some damage.

__________________
The Reed Law Firm; Michael Fasano VA Attorney and Counselor at Law: A Virginia Traffic, Criminal, and Family Lawyer.https://reedlawva.com/

Guard Dad

Is it the fluid that does the damage or does it not provide a great deal of corrosion protection so it requires regular flushing?

ChrisSlicks

It is because it is so resistant to absorbing moisture. Most fluids prevent corrosion by absorbing moisture but the high end racing fluids resist absorption.

__________________
Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms