Carbotech XP12 and XP10 with Stillan J-Hook Rotors

Nikon FM

Stillen (spelled it right this time) provided a set a free metal matrix pads when I bought the rotors. On the last lapping session (June) I used the metal matrix pads with the J-Hook rotors and all went well except I didn't have the stopping power and I went through the whole pad that day. The rotors survived and worked just fine with the lame pads.

Adding the high friction ie heat generator pads did the rotors in but I had great stopping ability and still did when the steering wheel started shuddering while braking.

This situation occurred on a seriously aggressive track type setting. I don't know that the situation could be duplicated on normal roads.

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Buddy Revell: "One man's sooner is another man's later"

370ZNISMO#704

Lol I bet I could come drive with me and my boys we drive like there are no cops ill hit 140 all the time I've been driving that way in all the cars ive ever built. My 95 eg goes 164 mph wit 224 at the front.

But I've even had the stock rotors already shake on me under braking.
That's why I was looking for better.
Braking is what makes your car faster then the next guy how well you can come in hot and pull through that corner.

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2010NISMO•305.9whp 250tq Osirus•STANCE GR+•and Camber & Toe bars•KICS R 20mm•VOSSEN CV3 20"-10.5x4•Stillen GENIII•AAM S-Line Nimso mid-pipe•CarbonSignal Sponsored car•EVOR F1mirrors•NST short shifter•Zspeed Nismo under tray.

Nikon FM

^ careful out there my friend

__________________

Buddy Revell: "One man's sooner is another man's later"

Mike

I think its actually pad deposits on the rotors. Mine used to do this when I ran the brembos and centric rotors. The brakes get really hot, mine hot enough to actually melt the powdercoat on my wheels and make it wrinkle up from centrifugal force. Sometimes after driving in the rain, the shudder would go away until the next track day, and other times, it would come and go. When I street drove it, if I gave it a few weeks of driving between events, the shudder was gone until tracking again.

It would do it to me after two sessions on fresh rotors. Sharif said its because I was street braking and not going 100% every time, but I'm not sure about that. I do know I don't have the problem now that I have stoptechs.

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NISSAN: 75 280Z / 86 300ZX GLL /87 Sentra SE / 03 350Z / 23 Z
Porsche: 93 968 / 23 Macan GTS / 93 968

Nikon FM

I hope so, although when putting my DD wheels back on I noticed the pads where rubbing only in one spot and the lines or wear marks on the rotors were fairly uniform………………I'll drive it and see if it cleans up. In the mean time though I'll work the cooling duct idea.

Thanks

__________________

Buddy Revell: "One man's sooner is another man's later"