Braking problem - malfunctioning ABS

RCZ

^ I think pulling the ABS fuse will make your speedo not work. There is an ABS sensor that you can unplug that wont cause the speedo to stop working, but will still disable ABS.

pgrmstr

Care to ellaborate on the ABS sensor? where is it?

Also, from previous posts, someone had stated that the ABS fuse a a 3 in 1, which also included VVEL, so you would need to cut just the ABS piece so the other two stayed intact....but I'm not sure.

If there is another device (fuse/sensor) that can effectively do the same thing, that would be useful!

I only autox my Z twice last year and did not encounter this issue...but the car will be HEAVILY autoxed this season on R compounds so this is of particular interest.

Additionally, as a left foot brake fan for autox, I am trying to solve the cut off of power when dragging the brake....hoping the ABS disable would solve both

ChrisSlicks

That is correct. Ordering a spare might be a good idea.

Removing a wheel speed sensor should do the trick.

It depends on the smoothness of the track. On a really smooth surface you usually don't run into it, but the old airport we run on has big cracks, off camber surfaces, dips and crests. If you co-drive the car you might encounter pad-fade with the stock pads if the course is brake heavy, higher temp pads such as the Carbotech ones would be a requirement.

That's a good question. I don't think it will as it doesn't have anything to do with ABS. You will most likely have to disconnect the brake pedal switch (which will take out your brake lights as well).

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Valentino

So witch fuse I have to pull to disable the ABS?

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ChrisSlicks

If you want to pull the fuse, you will need to get a spare 3-in-one fuse with the correct values, and then cut out the center fuse of the 3. As I recall the other 2 items on the fuse were power windows and VVEL. I'll go make a note of the number.

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travisjb

I'm definitely generating too much heat in front brakes. Used a paint temp sensor kit from Stillen and found the max front rotor temp at the track today to be somewhere north of 560C. The caliper temp was much more reasonable, which is credit to the design and robustness of the AP Racing calipers. Time for some brake ducting!!!

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spearfish25

What's the final word on the ABS fuse manipulation? Could be interested in doing this...

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ChrisSlicks

The ABS actuator fuse in on the 3-in-one fuse as described. Unfortunately I couldn't figure out where to buy one from, and I couldn't see how you could remove the center piece of the fuse without destroying it. You might be better off disconnecting a wheel speed sensor as that will shutdown the ABS computer.

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Valentino

Ya the wheel speed sensor sounds less complicated. So do you have any idea how to do this?

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Lou Fusz Nissan | KW V3 | SPL rear camber and toe bolt | OS Giken LSD | Nismo Diff cover | Engine Oil cooler | F.I. TDX Cat Back 18" Resonators | F.I. Resonated Test Pipes | Injen cold air intake | COBB AccessPORT | JWT Clutch Flywheel |

SkyZ

i believe its a simple plug in unit. find the sensor, trace the wire and unplug it.

spearfish25

Has anyone seen if disabling the ABS solves the icing issue? I was looking through the service manual to see where the speed sensor are located and of course ABS was in a nearby section.

If you disable the speed sensors, you'll be messing up the VDC/TCS system as well (possibly the icing problem, but maybe it's just the ABS system alone).

The manual also states the pulling the ABS harness will disable the system and then we can just threshold brake. Could be useful at the start of a track day, then just reconnect when done.

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Valentino

^ +1 REP

I'll try this next time when I'm on the track.

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Lou Fusz Nissan | KW V3 | SPL rear camber and toe bolt | OS Giken LSD | Nismo Diff cover | Engine Oil cooler | F.I. TDX Cat Back 18" Resonators | F.I. Resonated Test Pipes | Injen cold air intake | COBB AccessPORT | JWT Clutch Flywheel |

kannibul

WHen this happens, are you guys progressively braking, or jam-braking?

Basically, are you loading the weight of the car on the front wheels progressively, or, are you slamming the brakes quickly?

The first is the correct way...and you're less likely to trip ABS in any instance. The front wheels are about 70% of your braking force, and by loading up the front suspension FIRST, then you end up with more downforce on those wheels, allowing them to do their work better without tripping ABS.

That said, perhaps the car is too soft in the front, and nose dives hard enough to allow the back wheels to trip into ABS. If you're turning a bit, perhaps it's enough to where ABS trips on one wheel, kicking off ice-mode?

It could also be related to the inertia sensors in the car - perhaps they are reaching their limits and not reading the car correctly.

travisjb

don't think it is the inertia sensors, mine are disconnected

no. not 'slam braking'... controlled braking

yes, it is the differential wheel spin

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bullitt5897

Ok, so Semtex, StormCrow and Myself met up yesterday to do some braking tests and see what the stock 370z could do 60-0 and what a BBK 370z could do...

Well fully stock the 370z stops 60-0 in approximately 64 feet with no problems except brake fade after 3 stops. The third stop was about 68 feet.

so what does this tell us... Something we all already know the Magazines are full of $hit...

Now to the problem... The BBK 370z would redoubtably lock up the brakes faster and begin to slow faster than the stock Z then BAM "ice mode" would kick in and send the car an extra 40+ feet before allowing the brakes to reactivate. We tried several different processes to eliminate the problem but to no avail. We even disconnected the ABS harness and tried a test run at about 40mph and lets just say its was smokey!!! then we went for the 60-0 and with no speedo it was hard to gauge speed. At this point I decided not to lock the brakes but to progressively brake and it still locked the brakes to the point I said F' it and let off. I now have two flat spots on my right rear tire...

so all in all you need the ABS as you will lose your speedo and the intelligent key starts acting funny and will not turn off the car! It literally took me like a full minute of pressing the off button to get the car to shut down.

Now the question is... is there a way to dial back the abs? Giving us a larger margin for wheel speed deceleration?

but its gets even more weird... I took the car to a different road surface and the car did just fine...

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