AP RACING BBK Review!

AP - Chris_B · 01-16-2011, 08:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Island_370

Were the piston sizes matched for the master cylinders? What are the piston diameters? What is the calculated impact on f/r brake bias? Assuming same pads f/r. Is there any shift to the bias? Is the pedal travel any deeper (or shallower) to account for more (or less) fluid needed to clamp the pads?

The caliper/rotor combinations chosen work very well with the OE master cylinder. Bias is shifted slightly rearward as OE is too biased too heavily on the front. Most owners lower their cars, often using stiffer springs and better dampers. This decreases weight transfer to the front under braking, allowing the rear brakes to contribute more. Pedal travel is reduced as compared to stock, mostly due to stiffer components and stainless steel brake lines.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Island_370

Anti-rattle clips have no impact on pad knock. To fix pad knock, you need springs behind the pistons (track only feature).

True, but there are also other caliper features that can decrease pad knockback than just springs. Knockback is not an issue at all with AP Racing brake kits on the 370Z. Also, there are several AP Racing street calipers that use anti-knockback springs as needed. The setup in question here is not one of them.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Island_370

There are some arguments that monoblocks are just as rigid as 2 piece calipers.

Possibly, in certain cases. There is no blanket answer. The stiffest monoblocks ever made used very expensive and very eco-unfriendly materials that have been banned in most racing series. Kits which cost less than $12k per axle would not have those type of monoblocks. At "normal" BBK prices, many monoblock caliper designs have a very difficult time competing against the better designed and manufactured 2-piece calipers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Island_370

Drilled rotors are not good for track use. Were these drilled? or were they cast with the holes?

The kits are available with slotted-only or cross-drilled AND slotted discs. For heavy track use, slotted-only is recommended. Cast-in holes are a Internet myth.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Island_370

Or did you just buy them for bling? I which case they do look really good.

I think weiboi718 should answer that one! But his review highlights some of the benefits he has already enjoyed.

crash1369 · 01-16-2011, 09:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AP - Chris_B

The caliper/rotor combinations chosen work very well with the OE master cylinder. Bias is shifted slightly rearward as OE is too biased too heavily on the front. Most owners lower their cars, often using stiffer springs and better dampers. This decreases weight transfer to the front under braking, allowing the rear brakes to contribute more.

How much rearward, would this be a problem with stock suspension/ if someone wasn't planning on lowering the car or changing the springs?

AP - Chris_B · 01-17-2011, 10:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by crash1369

How much rearward, would this be a problem with stock suspension/ if someone wasn't planning on lowering the car or changing the springs?

It's not a huge shift. Again, the OE brakes are slightly bias too much to the front (like all cars are from the factory). It works fine with the OE suspension setup. However, lowering the car helps them work even better.

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