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so here's how my alignment turned out, what do you guys think? Close enough to get by without camber arms? The only thing that caught my attention was my front
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#1 (permalink) |
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Track Member
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so here's how my alignment turned out, what do you guys think? Close enough to get by without camber arms? The only thing that caught my attention was my front left camber is way off the front lefts. Something to be concerned about? That's the side that's making the creaking noises too, maybe the added negative camber there is something causing this since the insulators are all in their correct places.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Is there really any need for the toe bolts since my toe is all in spec?
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If its in its in, if the springs are fresh install they may sag as bit, and the measurements may change a tad, other than that I agree, unless you want to move to a toe angle you cannot at the moment, why go grinding away your sub frame?
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I've read the whole thread, and I have the Swifts myself. I adore them, however, the next step is to upgrade to Koni shocks. Can somenone that has Koni give a comment or description of the Swifts with and without the Konis? I mean, before and after?
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#8 (permalink) |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Why is the spec a minimum of 2 inches in front and minimum of 4 in the rear if 0 is the best? Is Nissan promoting premature wear of tires so you come in and pay them for tire service lol?
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The specs for rear toe have performance advantages. I'm pretty sure most rwd cars run some toe from the factory
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I'm assuming you're trying to say 0.7 or 0.07?
Anyway, toe in the rear helps stabilize the rear end at speed, making it more driver friendly to low skill drivers (most 370z owners, though likely not most people on this forum necessarily). Also, and on this point I am not 100% clear as to how it relates to our rear suspension specifically, but in most independent setups, toe is added or removed under compression. For example, in the front, toe is added on compression, so it is common for "racers" to spec toe out on the front so that under braking into corner entry, your wheels are as straight as possible. I think the inverse may be true in the rear. That is to say, under compression (acceleration) toe is removed (meaning toe OUT is added). If this is the case, Nissan would spec toe IN because it would serve twofold
Again, I could be wrong on that second part, but for sure, it adds stability at speed that isn't necessary for a skilled driver on a race track. EDIT: I will say for completeness sake, it also helps with bump-steer in the rear, as it tries to push the wheel towards the car's center of gravity when one or both wheels are "upset". Another thing a "racer" will want to fine tune for themselves to suit their driving style. Last edited by Sh0velMan; 04-02-2013 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Added the bit about bump steer. |
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#14 (permalink) |
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lol, yes! As soon as you move the camber back into line, the toe moves with it! The factory toe bolts do not have the range required to KEEP the car in toe. Get the toe bolts.....
Because you lowered the car, the camber became more negative and the toe did not change. That is because the springs were a 'central' point and the camber changed down the centre axis. As you try and correct the camber with camber arms, the toe will move 'in'. This is because the camber arms are positioned low and to the front of the springs, effectively 'pulling' the font and bottom of the tire inwards and creating an inward toe effect. The aftermarket toe bolts will pull the rear of the tire inwards and rearwards, allowing the alignment to became neutral and create 0 toe once again. The stock bolts do NOT have enough range to do this, and you will have to enlarge the toe bolts holes for the install to work. There is a template provided in the toe bolt package for enlarging your toe bolt holes.
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