I thought I would be scraping all over the place too, since driving a pick up truck and going to the 370Z. But once you get to know the cars height with the springs you just know where you can go through. You're going to scrape the lip of the front bumper, the black part, but scraping the paint It will have to be a really big pot hole or something. But here in PR anything is possible :roflpuke2:

I guess that's true but -2.5 I think is asking to much. I'm still going to need arms. The rear also trying to achieve -1.5.

Would love to see your car. And have an idea. Did u use camber arms in the back? Did u stay with stock spec alignment? Would be cool to make a meet and greet here. Im Carlos wont say no jejeje

I've been reading a lot in the forum and I thought I would end up buying at least the toe bolts, but nope. The car align just fine, I don't really know what are the specs exactly but for now it'll do.

We should definitely make a meet!

There u go. Lets plan and schedule it:stirthepot:

👍👍👍

370 Roadster with Swift Springs
 

I've had my swifts on my roadster w/sport package for about 1,000 miles. Love them. Car is much more planted and stable while not adding any harshness. A terrific addition to this car and highly recommended.

I've attached my alignment results in case anyone is interested. Surprising what a mess the pre-alignment measurements were. Hard to imagine why lightly driven car with 10k miles would be so out of whack. Its all good now.

Alignment is possible with the stock suspension, but your negative camber is going to be about -2.8.... That's a lot of camber and unecessary wear on your tires. If you try and get back to stock camber or less, you will need camber arms and toe bolts...

Wouldn't be good for me. That's a lot of rear camber and not enough front. If they were switched you'd be gravy.

I have 305's on the rear so I have -1.2 rear camber to keep the meat on the street....

wheeeee! :hello::hello:

Swift springs installed with rear camber arms and still couldn't get alignment back to specs. Need to get rear toe bolts and front adjustable arms because the left and right are just too different. Really wasn't planning on spending money on the front but its just too different from left to right. I will post pic of results later.

Yes people.... Swift Springs will lower your car AND change your negative camber. The rear is too aggressive for most people, but the front camber is only about -1.6 which actually improves the cars handling and has had no effect on my tire wear.

If you want a less aggressive stance and more rear tire life, you will need rear camber arms AND toe bolts. The stock parts do not have the range of movement to allow for the proper correction. You will also need to ENLARGE the oval hole in the frame (both front and back of the toe bolt holes, both sides) to get the proper range of movement for adjustment into spec.

This has been discussed hundreds of times in this thread and others. When you buy the rear camber arms, get the toe bolts at the same time.

I know this thread is long but the vendors should make sure that customers are aware of this when they are selling Swifts.

btw, it is still the best mod I ever made to the car. Performance and handling are amazing.

Tell us your camber arms too.

PS not sure why everyone wants spec! If you modded the car to handle better OEM spec is the worst specs you can use.

I don't mind the negative camber in the front but the left front is a lot different than the right front. If they were closer in range I would be fine with it. You can actually see the difference

nice looks great

I believe you, I'm off 0.5* left to right. But don't shoot for spec. Specs under -1 while the rear spec can go as high as -2.1. Those numbers need reversed and I'd always shoot for a -1* difference. So maybe -2 front -1 rear to save tires.

Im in for the meet ;) BTW i want to install the Swift springs too but i have the same question.... i can install the springs with out buy the camber kit??? maybe here in this thread some one write something but my eyes are tired lool and i dont want to search in all 100+ pages lol

Thanks!!!

:facepalm: here we go again...

Yes, you can install the springs without having to buy a camber kit. However, if you want the rears to match the front camber wise, you'll need at least a set of rear camber bolts. Nothing needed for the front. :tup:

...BUT if you install the rear camber arms and attempt to get back closer to stock camber YOU WILL require the toe bolts too....

And whys that? That arm should have a world of adjustment.

The rear aftermarket arm DOES have a world of adjustment, but ONLY for camber...

the toe settings on the stock bolts can only adjust for the limited range of the stock camber arm. If you exceed that limit by using aftermarket camber arms YOU NEED the aftermarket toe bolts to get your toe back to zero (after moving camber beyond the range of the stock camber arms)

...just buy both!

Gotcha. Or make toe/camber bolt lock out plates like me. Instead of drilling the hole center, just off set it. For $0.75 at 12" you can make about 8 of them till you get it right :tup:

But what about traction arms? Kinetic says you can do toe with those but spl doesn't say anything.

Different geometry for traction arms.

Lock out washers are best for the toe arms. Those are adjustable in the arm therefore you lockout the eccentric bolt.

Toe arms are only for those with true coilovers and have removed the spring perch.

Yeah I know, and I'm not paying $750 for the spl rear adjustable spring perch arm. I'll just make a few lock out plates and go to the alignment shop and see what it is. Only takes a second to install the plates and I'll have even more ability to adjust with the plates by flipping them over making the offset go to the other side.

The problem is, toe is infinitely small adjustments to get it to 0 degrees... having the ability to adjust with the toe arm (stock spring perch replaced) is great for that. But if you are counting on the lockouts to get you accurate with the stock perch, you will have to make a lucky guess to keep your toe and thrust angle neutral. Two very critical angles.... I would recommend the $30 toe kit just to be safe!

If I install these then will I be worried about more maintenance? Do I have to change or replace anything?

You will more than likely need rear camber arms and toe bolts. That's only needed if you want to get the rear back in spec.

:iagree:

Problem is its not safe and eccentric bolts move under high load making your nice new alignment garbage.

Any of you guys having issues with uneven and/or faster inner tire wear up front? I don't have anything installed for the front wheels. My tires have the dreaded feathering issue after a few months.

I had sort of the same problem, mine is just camber wear. I took my Z to the dealership a couple months after I put mybsprjngs on and had them re-align it, and they told me everything was put back to spec.

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Sounds good. I'm thinking by the time I had another tech properly realign my wheels the front tires were at least 6 months in. It was bad. The rear set barely lasted a year. These were Hankook tires, and I'm having much better wear rate and grip with the Continental DW tires. I'll make sure to get all 4 wheels aligned when it's time to replace all the tires.

+1 for getting alignments on a regular basis... saves tires!

Secondary note on the hankooks: if they're the V12's then that's part of the problem, mine lasted all of 6,200 miles before they were complete racing slicks.

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hmmmm,.... mine are lasting pretty good so far!