I'm sure they did it's a pretty reputable place. But I'll make sure they fix the noise when I take it back, I'm sure it's just the insulator needs adjustment. The first couple days they were no noises what so ever, so I'm guessing it just needs readjusting.

New Swifts
 

Just added some SWIFTS. I hope the front settles a bit more. Ride is about the same, I only drove about 15 miles to get it home until my alignment appointment on Tuesday.

Push the right pedal harder with your foot.

I have put 15k miles on my daily driven Swifts. The car should feel this way from the factory. The only thing I have ever scraped was the front chin splitter, which isnt a big deal at all.

Hi Kabestro,
I live in Guaynabo Puerto Rico as well, and have Swift springs on my Z. I love them. Would you like a ride on my car before you make a decision? I believe the car should have come like this stock.

Thanks for the offer fastfood98, but I've read so many good reviews for these springs that I'm just gonna buy them... :happydance:

I only heard good about the swift,i got some already oredered too

do i know camber kit or arms when i install the springs

Most people can get back into spec with just the rear camber kit.

:iagree: That was my case.

So I took the car in for them to check out the creaking noise, they said the insulators were all in the correct spots and they couldn't find any issues with the install. Their now saying some bushing may need to be lubed, possibly from the car being lower the bushings might be making noises. I don't know I may just put up with the creaking since it's only when going over bumps slowly in driveways.

The swift drop is perfect, but I am not so impressed with the handling at this point, the car just does not feel confident in speedy street cornering(by this i mean 60-80 range, I do not take it much more on the street). The front feels a little floaty to me, and the stock struts I do not feel rebound these well, even tho they are supposed to...I rather stay with a spring setup, this is a pure street driven car, might have to get the konis and see if that helps, if not off to coilover land. :( I ran s-techs/tokicos on my 350, and it felt much better than this. The car was aligned to factory specs, been on them for about 4k miles.

so here's how my alignment turned out, what do you guys think? Close enough to get by without camber arms? The only thing that caught my attention was my front left camber is way off the front lefts. Something to be concerned about? That's the side that's making the creaking noises too, maybe the added negative camber there is something causing this since the insulators are all in their correct places.

http://i833.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps91bacc8d.jpg

You need Koni's.

I've read the whole thread, and I have the Swifts myself. I adore them, however, the next step is to upgrade to Koni shocks. Can somenone that has Koni give a comment or description of the Swifts with and without the Konis? I mean, before and after?

Just ordered my swifts today :happydance:

You will still want rear camber arms.... I tried to go without but I decided the tire wear wasn't worth it and the cost of the camber arms was reasonable. Don't forget toe bolts too... can't do one without the other.

Thanks ZForce....which Euro shocks would you recommend?

- DM

:tup:

Hey guys are there any differences from the red swift springs and the black ones? The red ones where purchased a couple years ago.

He's talking about the stock 2013 370Z "euro tuned shocks".

Is there really any need for the toe bolts since my toe is all in spec?

lol, yes! As soon as you move the camber back into line, the toe moves with it! The factory toe bolts do not have the range required to KEEP the car in toe. Get the toe bolts.....

Because you lowered the car, the camber became more negative and the toe did not change. That is because the springs were a 'central' point and the camber changed down the centre axis. As you try and correct the camber with camber arms, the toe will move 'in'.

This is because the camber arms are positioned low and to the front of the springs, effectively 'pulling' the font and bottom of the tire inwards and creating an inward toe effect.

The aftermarket toe bolts will pull the rear of the tire inwards and rearwards, allowing the alignment to became neutral and create 0 toe once again. The stock bolts do NOT have enough range to do this, and you will have to enlarge the toe bolts holes for the install to work. There is a template provided in the toe bolt package for enlarging your toe bolt holes.

Wow so many things to do with these springs toe bolts camber arms I'm better of getting coilovers

I did not install the toe bolts when I did my install. When I had my alignment done they got the toe back within factory spec. .18 left and .15 right. Your results may vary.

If its in its in, if the springs are fresh install they may sag as bit, and the measurements may change a tad, other than that I agree, unless you want to move to a toe angle you cannot at the moment, why go grinding away your sub frame?

If you get coilovers and drop the car more than an inch you will still need toe bolts and camber arms...

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O degrees toe is best unless you are running a track setup... otherwise be prepared for excessive tire scrubbing. Your current settings are more than an 1/8th of an inch out from straight. Just sayin'....
That also means your tracking is off too....

WHAT???? If its in now, it WILL move when you re-adjust camber!! The two settings are opposite adjacent, meaning if you move one, the other will move too! If you adjust camber to something close to factory from the -2.8 he's at now, the toe WILL move to a negative amount correspondingly! WOW......

Exactly, these are all inter-related components....

[QUOTE=wheee!;2246557]O degrees toe is best unless you are running a track setup... otherwise be prepared for excessive tire scrubbing. Your current settings are more than an 1/8th of an inch out from straight. Just sayin'....
That also means your tracking is off too....

If you look at my alignment sheet in my previous post, would you say my toe is too far away from zero? Also look at my camber between the front left and right, they are a bit off from each other, is this something to be concerned about?

[QUOTE=bmarcinczyk14;2246566]Your total toe is too much for my tastes. Your thrust angle is good, but you will be scrubbing the back tires off with that much toe. Again, some will say this is minor, but I prefer not to waste money on tires if I can help it!! Keep in mind that I have 305's on the back too and I moved my rear camber to -1.2, to get better contact with the road. That meant I needed to move the toe more to get it into line as well....

The front camber is a little off but you would need front camber arms to adjust that. I would wait till there are more choices on the market than just the SPC front camber arms....

[QUOTE=bmarcinczyk14;2246566][QUOTE=wheee!;2246592]Cusco makes not adjustable front camber arms that they say are perfect for those who only dropped an inch (like swifts).

I agree 0 degrees toe is optimal. I have not noticed any excessive tire scrubbing with my new rears. One reason I didn't install the toe bolts is I was running short on time with other problems encountered during my install. Doing this with a DD isn't the best as after the weekend is up it needs to be road worthy. If I notice any excessive wear on my current set I will remedy the problem. Or if I just feel like installing the toe bolts as it starts warming up again in the garage I may do just that.

[QUOTE=wheee!;2246592]Then why is the manufacture spec only recommend the lowest of 4 degrees? In this case it looks like he made my toe even worse than it was before, since he increased both the front and rear further from 0 than it was.

[QUOTE=bmarcinczyk14;2246922]that's normal. if they try to get your camber in spec, your toe will get out, if they try to fix the toe, then camber will get worse. <-- this only applies to OEM suspension components.

WTF is up with the quotes? lol messed up...

Haha my bad, I think it all started when I messed up quoting you in previous messages and it came through all retarded.

[QUOTE=ZMan8;2246987]From my understanding, doesn't toe affect tire life even more so than camber? So wouldn't it make more sense for them to work more on getting toe into spec than camber?

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Yes toe will eat your tires worse than camber as a GEneral rule

Then shouldnt the alignment guy focus on getting toe closer to zero rather than maxing out my rear camber adjustment trying to get it as close to spec as possible?

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I think your toe was in spec though so I wouldn't worry that it's not exactly 0.