Hi all, I'm a newbie to cars and stuff that relates to cars but I don't really know where to learn these things from because I'm still a little kid
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09-07-2010, 06:21 PM | #1 (permalink) |
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Spacers questions..Pls help.
Hi all, I'm a newbie to cars and stuff that relates to cars but I don't really know where to learn these things from because I'm still a little kid (senior in high school). Ok enough with the introduction, I have a question, well I have lots of questions but for now just this, "WHAT IS A SPACER? AND WHAT DOES IT DO?" I have searched "spacers" on google and here but I still not get the right answers. To some1 my question just stupid, but I would love to hear explanations from you guys. The only thing i know is those spacers have to do with the wheels, that's all i got. I'm planning to get the 370Z by next year or after I graduated HS and for sure I'll put in and take out lots of stuff on it, but gotta learn first.
Thanks in advance guys! Ohh 1 more thing, I don't know if this thread falls in the right place in this forum. If it's in the wrong place then I'm sorry and pls show me where to post this at. |
09-07-2010, 07:53 PM | #2 (permalink) |
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Nissan 370Z Forum - 808isle_Z's Album: 25mm spacers rear, 15mm front
look how far the tires and wheels stick out of the fender |
09-07-2010, 08:03 PM | #3 (permalink) |
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Spacers essentially do exactly as the name implies, they add 'space' between the face of the wheel, and the hub it normally is bolted up to. This gap however small (usually in increments of 5mm, 10mm, 15mm, 20mm, 25mm, etc.) can improve both the looks and the handling of your Z very much.
Aesthetically, it will bring your wheels/tires flush with the body of the car, hence eliminating that horrid gap and overhang the 370 suffers from. Some choose to go as far out as legally possible and make them flush. Others choose to just have it be farther out, still being covered by the fenders. The style is purely up to the driver. Performance wise, moving the wheels out in this manner increases your wheelbase and helps lower your center of gravity in your car. This translates to having an easier time maneuvering around corners. A wider stance means your car is less likely to roll as you move the wheel from side to side. To help compliment this, its also common for people running spacers to get lowering springs and sway bars. This combination of lower/wider/stiffer will drastically improve your handling for a much more spirited drive. If you thought your Z was awesome before, just wait till you can take the same corners you used to at 65 and feel squeemish, when your taking them at 85 and having this huge grin cause your car won't budge. All you need now is a good set of tires and you'll be ready to tear up the streets after graduation.
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09-07-2010, 08:07 PM | #5 (permalink) |
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Good question Triple's! Let me help you with that! The steering wheel is the "emergency spare" for the roadster.....
OP, check out the DIY for pictures and info on the install in my signature lol
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09-07-2010, 11:17 PM | #7 (permalink) |
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I never had a car that people put spacers on so I also am new to this. What companies make these spacers?? Are there better ones then others?? And are there any downside to them? Thanks guys.
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09-08-2010, 11:54 AM | #8 (permalink) |
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quality wise Kics, H&R, Eibach are top notch. personally i have several sizes in Kics and Eibachs. i like the Eibachs because no need to buy the centering rings separately.
ichiba's are okay, not the highest of quality imho but they work fine. there's other ebay ones too, not sure about strength on those... i would not want to find out on my car. |
09-08-2010, 05:09 PM | #9 (permalink) |
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Any that can be put on without replacing studs?
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09-08-2010, 06:07 PM | #10 (permalink) |
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anything larger than 20mm will use the type II bolt on variety, but the best way to go is stud replacement IMO
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09-09-2010, 12:01 PM | #12 (permalink) |
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yah, kics, H&R, Eibach all make the ones with studs built-in.
for the Z's factory wheels you want to get the ones that have the centring ring lip built-in (eibach's for example). the 10mm from kics do not have this lip so dont use it unless you have aftermarket wheels that are lug-centric. 15mm-25mm will fit the rear. 20mm-25mm will fit the front. on the front though if you use 20mm you will need to grind the back of your wheel a little bit (like less than 2mm on an angle off the ledge) otherwise it will not clear the factory stud that protrudes past the spacer. you'll know wat i mean when you place the wheel over the 20mm, torque down the lug lightly. the factory stud will make indents on the back of the wheel. grind it off. if you know you will be using the factory wheels for a long time i suggest you use the 20mm with new studs. |
09-09-2010, 06:22 PM | #13 (permalink) |
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If I have to get new studs, I'm not interested in installing myself, so I'll probably just skip spacers.
Especially since 20mm is more than I want in the front, I think.
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09-09-2010, 08:45 PM | #14 (permalink) |
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Do the 15 mm front and 20 mm rear. Buy your spacers from Josh at Stillen and read the DIY on their blog or here on the forum. It is dead simple to do stud replacement and it takes about 30 minutes a wheel. E Z P Z
DIY: ** Rear 20mm stud replacement spacers
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09-09-2010, 11:53 PM | #15 (permalink) |
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If I have to spend 30 minutes a wheel, I won't be doing it :P
I think writing an iPhone app to toggle brightness between two set levels is easy, but I wouldn't assume everyone finds it so
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